I just saw a new KBIS 2014 report on the newly available huge slab sized white marble looking material that is actually like a porcelain tile. This new size is aprox 10 x 5 feet (3200mm x 1500mm) and close to a standard 2cm thickness. This is the same company that I think several GW's reported using (for bathroom tiles) instead of natural marble with glowing reports. They made several sizes including large format tiles (aprox 18x24, 9x12, 4x6) and this looks equal to a full slab size that has the properties of porcelain but the look of marble. Have not seen it in person but worth checking out. It is called Classtone by Neolith and I have a link below of the KBIS introduction. Unless you have alteady done so, you might also check out some white granites or natural stone quartzites (not to be confused with the man made quartz). Be sure to look up the GW posts about Rocks, Quartzites and other Rocks in the Kitchen, Parts 1 - 4, for great info in general and how to test individual slabs you are interested in for durability for etching, hardness, stain ability, etc. One thing that has come across in those threads is that all natural stones are NOT the same and just the names and categories can't always be accurate. So you have to test to be sure. Or maybe some of the solid surface synthetics will work for you. Always good to have choices! Hope this helps. Let us know of your progress. Here is a link that might be useful: Porcelain slab sized marble look alike

Last week we had Laza installed from Home Depot and we love it! We have alot of work left to do on our reno, but thought I would throw up some pics. When doing our research, I appreciated everyone's pics and reviews. We absolutely made the correct decision. We had 74 sq feet installed for $6600. I believe it is the old Laza, because we saw the new Laza and it did not have the same amount of "thin" veining (see the pic of the full slab, that was the new Laza). The undertone of the quartz is more white than cream or gray -- the pic by the coffee maker and fridge cab make it look creamier than it actually is. The installers did such a great job, there is one seam at the faucett hole, and one straight seem at the corner -- can't see either one. Bottom pic, trying to give a better perspective of the undertone color of the quartz -- the tile on the left has a very slight cream color and the tile on the right is more of a pure white. It's difficult to capture by camera.

Pre-cat lacquers are better than most single-part formulas (Envirolak is the exception). I don't know much about Campbell, and I can believe it might be really durable, but it is definitely not the most durable paint on the market. That's going to be post-cat Milesi, ICA, Renner, plus a few others, or even something like post-cat Loba 2K AT which I am using on my own cabinetry (a rock-tough floor coating that is really tricky to apply to cabinets, but I am pushing through with special techniques). The second question is whether the Campbell this painter uses has oil in it, because if so, it will yellow over time (sellers of Advance and many brands of oils will say the paints are non-yellowing, but don't believe it). In the olden days, oil paints were the most durable on the market, however, with new technology these days, the top-tier waterborne paints are just as if not more durable, plus they don't offgas fumes into the environment like oils do which is better for your health and indoor air quality. Many places in Europe mandate the levels of VOCs in coatings which has contributed to worldwide popularity of waterbornes, including for cabinetry. I'm so very glad you are headed that direction to find a painter who used a durable paints! The best tip I can give you is to join the following Facebook group and ask who is local to your area who does good prep and either Envirolak or post-cat conversion varnish (preferably Milesi, Renner, or ICA). There are absolutely great painters out there doing quality work. In fact, if your current painter will agree to Envirolak, you could possibly even stay with him or even discuss INSL-X with him. INSL-X Cabinet Coat from Benjamim Moore is non-yellowing, and the semi-gloss is more durable than the matte according to some people. INSL-X has a beautiful white color straight from the can if you pick the light base, and it can also be tinted to any Benjamin Mooore color desired. As a last resort, you could consider INSL-X Cabinet Coat in semi-gloss (I wouldn't do matte in this paint on cabinets, and the semi-gloss is in my opinion fairly subdued in terms of sheen), however, while it will probably give you a fair number of years of good service (less then ten maybe), it isn't going to be your most durable option, so explore everything else you can first. Envirolak is an incredible, non-yellowing, 1-part paint that is extremely durable and holds its own in durability testing against 2-part conversion Milesi for cabinetry. Here's the group, and it is public in case you're not on Facebook so you can at least read the posts and search for the directory of painters, and be very sure your painter isn't taking a 2-part paint and leaving out the catalyst as some do this and it is a disaster--Envirolak would be way better than that: https://m.facebook.com/groups/353207895210719/

Hello All... and Carol, This message is from Carol's sister Barb. I have been discussing countertops, cabinets, backsplash and paint colors with Carol also... so am finding these discussions very interesting. Thank you to EVERYONE! Because I have an art and design background I tell Carol she just needs to listen to me! ha! But gosh, that just doesn't always happen. And her husband, although a very nice guy, doesn't always agree either. Therefore, all of your input and advice is great! After reading everything from all of you, here is my take: * FLOORPLAN: Keep as is * COUNTERTOP/S : use the same countertop in Kitchen, Bar Area and Laundry room. Plain Soft White (or off white) Matt finish Quartz or Solid Surface (Corian or other brand). I have Quartz... it is not that fragile. In fact, Consumer Reports rates it slightly better than granite. * TWO-TONE COUNTERTOP is not bad either for kitchen. But if using a 2nd color, I would use a warmer gray or the Hone Virginia Mist granite (or soapstone) someone had suggested. And I would use on the peninsula section only. Note: I had recommended that Carol take off white color paper (or maybe a bone color) and put it on her existing countertop just to get a feel for what off white would look like. I think it will show her how it will not only brighten/lighten the space, but will simplify the busy look. And then also let her husband see it so he can see it is not boring, but calming and pleasant. And keep it there for a couple days so they can get used to seeing it. Then she could also add an area with deeper color for a two-tone look. * COUNTERTOP HEIGHT: I would keep countertop height. Easier to get on and off of stools at that height instead of bar stools especially as we age * WATERFALL COUNTERTOP: If doing all OFF WHITE, I guess I would consider. But I could go either way on waterfall countertop... with or without. * CABINETS: great idea to strip and recoat existing cabinets * CABINET HARDWARE: good idea to update with new brushed nickel or possibly matt black. Get countertops in first, then decide. Not a real pressing upgrade. The present stuff is not too bad * FLOORS: keep them and stream clean as originally planned * BACKSPLASH: Remove existing brown wall tile. Add simple rectangle tile: modern layout (not brick) - color ideas: bone, sage (nice soft green -brings in outside greens), teal, blue (cooler tones are nice compliment to the orange tones and works with floor coloring). TBD after countertop is determined for sure. KEEP SIMPLE, LIGHT AND NON-BUSY. * BACKSPLASH ON FULL WALL: To be decided. But I would probably do... depending on tile selected * PENDANT LIGHTS - new more updated pendant lights with cooler temp bulbs (3500 to 4000 lumens - not too cool... 6000 lumens would be too cool) * BAR STOOLS - new bar stools - white, light taupe, chrome * INVISIBLE COOKTOP: For safety of pet cat, Twix... best not to do * TV: mount on wall away from stove top * PAINT COLOR: probably mostly off white. But could also add in accent wall color depending on backsplash color selected (sage, teal, blue, etc). One of last items TBD * AREA RUG: May or may not want... decide after everything else is complete. If desired, keep it very simple/plain. There is plenty of pattern and color in the floor already Any further comments from folks are welcome! Carol... for now... I hope this helps. Let's chat. Barb