Look at the schematic for it. If the case (not including door) is about 24", then it is considered counter depth.

If you're trying to fit it into cabinetry, check your height. Counter depths are often taller than "standard" depth.

30" is not counter depth - 24" is counter depth.

Is it going into an existing kitchen? then no. If you are building from scratch, you can modify cabinets to make it more buit in. I have an intergrated fridge and freezer tower, and if you have a large family or entertain a lot, there is definitely less room, and mine are 30” wide each. Sometimes its better to have the deeper fridge and have the cabinets built to suit, some people have also had alcoves built to accomodate. Good luck

Look at all the measurements involved. The depth of the box. The depth including the door. And depth including the handles. Plus look at the installation instructions to see if any space is required between the back of the frig and the wall. Then figure how much clearance you'll have to an island or other obstacle for good flow. It gets more important if it's in a traffic lane between other areas.

The box is the depth not the door thickness and as mentioned the space needed behind it too.

Is that measurement for the box? Including the doors? including the handles? The dimensions they give you online in the description are usually to the handles - you will need to look deeper into the specs to find the dimensions. It seems like many depths of ref will fall into the category of counter depth so I tell my customers to figure out how deep of a ref they can have ( to the doors ) and shop for things around that size - don't get swept up in the labels.

Good luck

In order of expense, and design difficulty.

Regular depth vs counter depth. Regular deoth is the cheapest fridge you can buy.

Counter depth close up. The doors must protrude, in order for them to operate. They don’t have the articulating hinge of a built in. They are more expensive, with less storage than a counter depth.

Built in. The hinges articulate without binding against the adjacent cabinets. Even less storage than a counter deoth, and much more money.

Built in. One of the binuses of individual columns or units is is separatng them to minimize the bulk of them. Two u its have about the same capacity as a single 1/5 the price regular depth fridge.

Paneled built in. You can still see that it’s a fridge, and the cost is increased yet again by adding cabinet panels.

Fully integrated built in. You only see a piece of furniture looking piece, with no real external clues that its a fridge, unless the fact that its in a kitchen and is a big bulky thing logically tells you that it is.

To me, counterdepth means it does not protrude beyond the counter, so less than 25". Unlikely to find one for even $2500.

While the minuses of shallow refrigerator/freezers are higher cost and reduced storage for a given width, there is a plus -- one can see what is a-mouldering in the back, because it isn't that far to the back. For example, my paneled SZ632 has shelves 14 inches deep; with total back to door seal distance of 19 inches.

As some others have said, "counter-depth" just means the carcass/box of the refrigerator is "counter-depth", not including the doors & handles. To be counter-depth, the box/carcass will be no more than 25" or so deep, usually closer to 24". These are usually 36" to 48" wide.

Standard-depth is any refrigerator with a carcass/box deeper than 25". These are usually 30" or more wide, although there are some narrower.

The doors & handles must extend out past all surrounding items (counters, cabinets, walls, etc.) for both standard- & counter-depth.

The full depth of the refrigerator itself is the depth of the carcass + depth of the doors + depth of the handles.

Installed depth = full depth of the refrigerator itself + required air clearance in the back + the larger of extra space needed in the back for electrical AND extra space needed for the water connections to the ice maker/ water

Installed width = width of the refrigerator + air clearance needed on the left + air clearance needed on the right

Note that whether counter- or standard-depth, there must be 6" to 12" between the refrigerator and anything deeper than the refrigerator's carcass/box. The deeper the item, the more space is needed.

Make sure to factor in function of the ref as well. If you do alot of things with large platters or put pizza boxes in the ref, a counter depth ref may not be good for you. If your design has panels on the sides and a deep cabinet above, full depth or mid depth ref is just fine provided you aren't cramping a walkway or blocking a doorway..

Good luck!

I don't think you will get a counter depth refrigerator for less than $2500 but perhaps you could.

FWIW, I was reading a recent survey on refrigerators done by CR and basically people who had counter depth refrigerators were fine with the amount of storage - or as fine as people who had standard depth refrigerators. Most counter depth refrigerators provide a lot of actually usuable space because things aren't lost in the back. And most people who have a need for huge refrigerator storage tend to live in single famiy homes where it is normal to have a second refrigerator in the garage or basement anyway.

A counter depth refrigerator will hold larger items. What is limiting is a side by side refrigerator since you have two narrow storage facilities - freezer and refrigerator.

Most people prefer the counter depth aesthetically especially in a "normal" or smaller size kitchen because it isn't as much of a hulking presence as a standard depth refrigerator.

I have a counter depth refrigerator but I did a bit of an optical illusion by cladding the sides with the same wood cabinetry as the panels so it blends into the rest of my wood cabinets.