Someone locally is selling a new, misordered white Kohler Purist tub for like 1/3 of normal cost, and I almost jumped at until I realized it had BubbleMassage and not the Effervescence i wanted (tiny bubbles rather than the usual big ones that quickly float to the surface and pop). I'm still intrigued with this tub - it, and its rectangular cousin the Kohler Sok, are like bathing in your own personal infinity pool. It's also a rare 2-person tub configured so you can either face each other or (my preference) face the same direction side by side, both in reasonable comfort. But I just can't fit a 46"w tub in this house (and thats before the obligitory deck built around it) so it will have to wait until my next move, which hopefully won't be too long in the future. Things I like in a bathroom that I really have: another Ikea Godmorgan sink cabinet (4' long x 18") with Odensvik sink - what an incredible use of space with those four deep wide drawers, thanks to the sink drain plumbing that's quickly pushed to the back, and the glossy drawerfronts, full extension drawer glides, soft-close feature, and wall hangability, along with the thick, glossy glazed ceramic top and nice chrome pulls I used, fool everyone into thinking it's seriously high-end stuff. As with a previous poster, the 18" rather than 21" depth went a long way to making the room feel roomier, since the deeper vanity would have been right up against the door opening. Since the Ikea sink doesn't have a backsplash, I put large ceramic tiles on the wall that look like Carrara marble. Nestled amonst those tiles between the sink and medicine cabinet is a 4" tall strip of glass/marble/metallic accent tile from Porcelanosa. Like everything else at that modernist boutique, it's expensive, but since I didn't need much it didn't matter, and the presense of obviously luxury-grade accent tiles further disguises that everything surrounding it came from Lowes or Ikea. Ditto the Pfister Kenzo waterfall faucet, which only set me back about $125. Looks 4x the price it is. California Faucets thermostatic tub/shower valve. Central lever controls temperature, with temperatures embossed in the metal, giving it the appearance of a dial on a nice wristwatch; just set your favorite temp and it keeps it. Below and above the large temperature control are two smaller levers for water volume control that can be used one at a time or both at once, for tub spout and shower, or fixed shower and hand shower, without the need for a seperate diverter control. All three controls fit on either a round or rectangular metal bezel, and there are loads of styles and finishes to choose from. Higher than average flow rate too. Much better than the Hansgrohe thermostatic valve I used in another room. An infrared heat lamp strategically positioned in the ceiling in front of the mirror and vanity cabinet, right under where you stand in front of the sink and mirror whilst drying off and styling hair. Also on the ceiling is a Broan QTR080L exhaust fan/light - very quiet, and the light uses a standard bulb instead of some funky compact fluorescent lamp that can only be purchase from an electrical specialty store, which is the norm for new exhaust fan/lights it seems. I put a retrofit LED bulb in there, which makes it even more efficient than the fluorescent bulbs most of these force you to use, and it gives off a more natural light too. Toto Drake II commode (or its skirted cousin, Vespin II). High quality, doesn't clog, perfect 16-1/2" height, cleans the side of the bowl extremely well (rare in 1.28gpf toilets), has two large water outlets instead of dozens of tiny holes that collect mildew so you can toss your toilet brush away. It's also slender so the space around it looks roomier in tight spaces. I used the Church 1720 slow-close seats from Lowes, which cover up most of their own seams at the back further easing cleaning (the lid on these sticks out about 1/2" beyond the seat and bowl underneath which looked odd at first, but that lets you lift the lid without touching the sometimes soiled parts underneath which I like). Also from Lowes, the Kohler recessed medicine cabinets mirrored inside and out, 26"h with several widths available, most for under $200. Would like them even better if the hinges allowed the doors (mirrored on the inside) to open further, but replacement hinges are available if you need that. Still, these look very elegant and are also very functional, with height-adjustable glass shelves. Home Depot has similar units with doors that swing open further, but they're not as well made. In another bathroom I used the Lowes Allen + Roth 31"w x 22"d vanity top in Blue Pearl, my favorite granite color, which was only $200 a few months ago but has risen in price some since. It's available in several other colors and widths too, all including an oval white undermount bowl. Still a good deal for a high quality granite top that fits atop loads of stock cabinets, though I'd prefer if it weren't pre-drilled for an 8" widespread faucet, generally ruling out using a single-hole or wall-mount faucet. These aren't stocked in stores, but they're not truly custom/built-to-order, probably sitting in a warehouse somewhere, and there's only about a one-week turnaround if you order from their website and pick up in their stores. These do include a backsplash, and a sidesplash is available too. Finally, nice sculpted lever handles on the bathroom doors, which allow them to be opened by pushing upward using the top of your hand if it's wet or soapy. I'm not a germophobe, but I like being able to do this before I'm about to eat a meal and want my hands to be clean and disinfected, and have guests over who may not have washed their hands after using the restroom. When used in the normal fashion, pushing downward with your palm, they're easier to open than round knobs.

I am getting ready to do exactly the same thing and this is the my plan. I am not changing the location of any of the fixtures and I am not changing out the bathtub, so my list is straightforward. If you have major changes, the sequence might change. 1. Gather together all of the things you want to install - I have the vanity, toilet, plumbing fixtures (came today! yay!) and I am still waiting on the floor and wall tile. 2. When you have everything gathered, you are ready to start. Demo the old vanity and the wall mirror (if the mirror is big like mine you might have to hire glass people to remove it and haul it away). (I will remove the vanity and break it down). 3. Next get the plumber in to do the plumbing rough for the shower fixtures. He will cut into your old tile to get to the pipes, but doesn't do the tile demo. 4. Tile guy comes next. He will demo the shower and floor and put up the moisture barriers, cement board, tile, etc. He removes old toilet. You might consider timing your demo to coincide with trash pickup day (our trash guys will haul away the debris for a $20 gratuity). Depending on the size of bath, tiling could take 3-4 days. 5. Paint behind the toilet and the vanity wall. 6. The plumber comes back to finish the shower fixture installation and to install the toilet. 7. Immediately after the tile is done, get the glass people in to measure for the shower door (if that is what you are doing). It takes a couple of weeks to make the door so have them come as soon as the tile is set. 8. The carpenter comes next to install the vanity, medicine cabinet, etc. 9. As soon as the vanity is installed, you need to call the counter top people to template. It might take a week or two to get your counter top. Once the counter top is installed, the plumber returns to install the sink faucet. This is the time I would paint the rest of the room and install the mirror. I am likely doing a tile backsplash so I will need to get the tile guy back once the countertop is installed. Last thing that gets installed is the shower door and that will be in a few weeks from when you called them. As soon as the tile comes, I will start setting up the appointments. I will call the tile person first because he will be the busiest. Once I know when he's coming, I will call the plumber to do the rough the day before the tile guy is due. If everything is scheduled properly, I am expecting my bathroom remodel to take around 2 weeks. I am not installing or changing lighting - but you could have the electrician come at any time (but before the painting).

I'm assuming from what the OP said that they don't want or need hall access to a bathroom that one of the bedrooms isn't going to be used as a bedroom. I also LOL at how home builders are so overspecific in naming the rooms on their floorplans. Like everyone wants a game room in the middle of all the bedrooms and home office, just the thing to ensure a good night's rest or undistracted working at a desk. One small item I find really irksome in this floorplan: the door to the master bathroom toilet room is ideally positioned to (a) block the entry from the bedroom when open, which it assumedly would be when not in use, and (b) whack the person using the sink when unexpectedly opened from inside. Also, that door to the upper left bedroom is a weird one. Perhaps to keep it from blocking access to the J&J bathroom when open, it's hinged on what would otherwise be the wrong side. As it is, especially since the bedroom closet extends further than the door opening, the door must be opened an awkward 180 degrees to enter the bedroom from the hallway. Another reason that favors making the upper right and lower left bedrooms the two en suites. This post was edited by lee676 on Wed, Jan 21, 15 at 15:32

The little sink plunger is called the pop up. I haven't seen the ones that aren't connected. That sounds like a newer system -- no idea. Danze and Brizo are fairly high end brands though Brizo is fancy Delta I believe. It's most helpful for suggestions if someone posts photos. Vanities are generally 36" high. So, if the med cabinet is a tall one, it needs to clear 36 plus the height of the faucet, plus say 2 inches. With a 48" vanity and a single sink, I wouldn't want a tiny faucet. If you get a modern style with a top lever that ads to the height. A bridge faucet or separate hot/cold spouts should be lower. I'm planning a budget powder room expansion to add a shower to our first floor. I made sure I went to the showroom and handled the shower fixtures. I would do the same with sink faucets. The heavier the better (more brass). There aren't so many complaints about bath faucets. Most have ceramic cartridges which can break but are easy to replace. Warrantys vary so I'd read the fine print. Also, some manufacturers, like Rohl, have tiers of product. I happen to have Rohl/Perrin & Rowe nickel faucets & shower in our master. Those have been excellent and 0 issues in 12 years. They still look new. I love the color of the nickel but would likely not get it again as it needs to be polished up periodically.