I've had my 36" range Bluestar for almost seven years and we have replaced every single ignitor at least two times, many three or more. We've also had issues where we have had to replace the entire burner because the screws had rusted into place (our original range was built without stainless steel screws ... oops) and then they've broken off when we tried to make the ignitor change. In addition, we've had to have the spark modules (ignitor control boxes) replaced twice on one side, once on the other. On several occasions, "shorts" (that's the term we were told by repair people), have caused the wires to melt and fuse together--meaning the ignitor wire that goes from the ignitor itself and then plugs into another wire that goes into the spark module fused--requiring replacement of not only the ignitor, but the second wire (which also requires removal of the front plate). We also continue to have issues with all of our burners clicking constantly, even when the lit burner is fully on, unless the flame is on full high. (But only on two of the six burners.) So, yes, replacing an ignitor is a fairly trivial, if annoying and potentially expensive prospect, IF you don't also have melted wires, rusted screws that shear off when you try to remove the ignitor or broken spark modules. Oh, and you can actually get Bluestar to send you the ignitors you order and pay for in the first place. That's never really gone smoothly for me, either. In my experience, 6-12 week waits are the norm for parts from Bluestar. Plus, once you get the parts, you better hope they're right. We've had at least four replacement ignitors that didn't work, right out of the bag: cracked in shipment. The fragile, unprotected ceramic ignitors are sent loose--hitting against each other, if you order more than one--in small bubble mailers. A little rough handling in route and you're bound to get at least one pre-cracked ignitor per-batch ... At $25/pop, for what I've been told by several service people is a "$3 part." (But we've also not found off-brand ignitors that fit the Bluestar without modification.) "Stooxie," and others, I'm glad it hasn't happened to you but the ignitor issue (no air quotes) is, or at least, was, NOT "nonsensical." It's possible they've addressed these problems in later models, but I can attest the issue is most certainly a legit one. I don't have one, but I was very impressed with the Capital Culinarian, for many reasons, but at least in part because they had a large metal shield covering part of their ceramic ignitors, making me think they'll be a LOT less fragile. Oh and, in terms of Bluestar issues ... I will also say that, it's likely these are not current concerns, but we were certainly not thrilled to need two oven door replacements (locking itself shut) and a new oven bottom (support collapsed) ... Just more "non-issues" experienced by myself and many other Bluestar owners of the same generation. When the range works, it's impressive, but the shoddy build-quality I've seen (mine also came with loose screws floating free and missing parts) and abysmal customer service means I would never, ever buy another Bluestar, no matter what their next, latest-greatest is. They may have cleaned up their act now, but they treated their early adopters like Beta testers ... Without the service and support such positions usually come with. EDITED TO ADD: I'm not saying no one else should buy a Bluestar, or that they haven't solved the problems I've described above in later builds (I haven't cooked on one built later than mine, but I've read anecdotal evidence seems to indicate at least some changes have been made). I'm simply saying that I, personally, based solely on my own experience, would not. This post was edited by applnut on Tue, Apr 30, 13 at 8:57

My floor is porcelain tiles....would assume that is adequate. In regards the the gas line, would not think that would be problematic, I created a 1 foot x 1 foot recess in the wall to accommodate the gas hook up. My gas line terminates in the recessesed area allowing enough room for the gas line to coil up nicely. Will give the slides a try,

Resurrecting an old thread. I have a Bluestar RNB. I had a RCS at a prior location. I love the range. Simple and powerful. Nothing really to break. On the old RCS I had an issue with oven control being sloppy. This looks to be resolved in my new model. My complaint on the new model is there are large gaps between the cast iron cook grates up to 7/16 of an inch. Bluestar says that is within tolerances but I feel for $6K they should do a better job.

I would look at the 9" tall under cabinet Vent-A-Hood with 600 CFM. I had a very similar installation in a previous home. I had the 30" Bluestar and the bottom of the hood was only 22" above the stove, at the time it was my only option short of a complete remodel. I looked at the hood and the VAH can be as close as 18" off the cooking surface and still meet UL guidelines. Also let me say that I an 6'4" tall and had no problems using any of the burners with the hood that close. From a performance stand point the closer the better for capturing the cooking contaminants. With the 2-3" tall hoods you still need to have the blower somewhere and this is usually in the cabinet above but more importantly the short hood will not give nearly enough capture/holding area for the hood to even have a chance of venting properly.