I just saw this quartzite the other day at the stone yard. Looks like this is the same one. If you get this for the island, then do the perimeter as well. I think if you try and do something different, but still white, it's going to look off. (unless you do a plain white quartz) . Do a quartz that looks like marble, is not going to work, IMO. They are just two different looks. Do them all the same, or do a dark, solid contrast. Now, if you wanted to do a soapstone, I'd say fine. that would actually look nice. look at this pic to get an idea (different island, but same premise). it's not going to make things look dark if you went w/a soapstone or even a honed Jet Mist granite. Cielo is a quartzite that you may want to consider as well. this one is leathered.

I have a question for you guys. Is it too outdated to have a cointibayoon do the quartz for the badksplash(only the 4inches) without having to add any other back splash? I worry about making my kitchen Look too busy and having a hard time matching colors , so i was hoping to just install a quartz counter top with that extra 4 inch lip without doing any other backsplash . That is assuming my counter top isn’t too bland . Also, can I get away with a gray? What about the Silestone calacatta gold ? Are the speckled quartz outdated ? Thanks! My floor has to be changed because it’s got a lot of holes and pkaces that are showing the underneath black rubber. it also has stains . My dream is to have white cabinets , a Taupe counter top(warmer gray like), and wood floors . If calacatta gold form Silestone , Bianco drift from Caesarstone , cambria Torquay , or viatera “sol” would work with white or warm cabinets , I’d pick one of those maybe. It’s a small kitchen, and I don’t have a huge budget .. but I do want to make a big enough change beginning with the counter tops that were never sealed properly, flooring, (and our back wall behind the sink that needs to be replaced ) . Thanks, again. I like honesty .

Sorry TCB - just realized you are the OP :) - and just re read that you plan to change the hardware....are you doing this everywhere in the home? Will the ORB be on all door hardware throughout the home? I'd strongly suggest focusing on the tile (white with matching grout or subtlety darker grout like a bone white). Then do the hardware and select paint LAST. Thank you for the paint tone pictures with your floor - could you retake the shots with the paint samples propped vertically against the wall by the tile floor. Look at all samples as you will see them in real life because the light hits them different so anything vertical (like paint) should be evaluated vertically.

Egan-I would reduce island length by around 12”. I would eliminate pony walls on ends and use decorative cabinet end panels and reduce 18” cabinet on far end to 12” cabinet. Make sure your cabinets are designed with proper metal support plates for slab. 12-13” overlay for stools is tight. I would expand to 16”. Most slabs can accommodate that total width. 36” deep plus 4” more would mean slab has to be 40-44” wide and 108-112” long. That is doable for most slabs without seams.