All cabinet boxes are standard at 24” depth, with a 3/4” doors. So 99% of people who have any range, use it with 24“ deep cabinets. Less than 1% of cabinet customizations involves adding extra depth to base cabinets.

It won't work, because the range from the outside edge of the back vent--to front edge of the glass top is 25". Which means, in your case, the glass top would overhang the countetop, which would not be a good look. I have a 3/8" gap between the wall tile and the back of my range when I positioned the range to align with the front edge of the countertop. My counterop depth measured from the wall tile is 25 3/8". I hope this helps. The cabinet depth is 25" including drawer fronts. The countetop depth is 25 1/2" without backsplash tile. I love that range BTW!

You should follow the diagrams on the Spec Sheet which show that the cooktop is 24-5/16" deep and the countertops adjacent to the cooktop should be 25" deep. Note that the edges of the glass cooktop rest on the adjacent countertops so those countertops must be perfectly level and the same height.

Also read the user guide to see how the cooktop operates, namely that you must first select an element to adjust and then use the single, virtual slider to adjust its power. Most induction range have a control for each element; this range does not. IMO a knob for each element is best.

@wdccruise you are incorrect about having to select an element first. Here's how it actually works. You set the pan/pot on the element, then turn the stovetop on. The stove automatically senses where the pot/pan is, so all you have to do is select your temperature. To change the temp, you just select the number you wish. If you have more than one pot on the stove, then yes, you'll have to select what element you wish to use for that second pot. There is a grid on the stove to select which burner, very easy to use. There is no slide of any kind, so I don't know what you mean by" virtual slider." Bosch's temperature settings are numbers listed on a linear line. You tap which number or 1/2 number matches the temperature you desire. IMO it's much to-do about nothing using a touchpad rather than knobs. And knobs are harder to clean. However, Bosch is switching to knobs for its range. I think because people are having a hard time adjusting to the idea of a range that doesn't have knobs. I remember being so confused by my old electric range, trying to figure out which knob I should choose for which burner. In the 20 years I owned that range it was never intuitive and so-so many times my husband and I turned on the wrong burner. The Bosch range is totally intuitive, not hard to comprehend, and we've found that the touchpad becomes automatic for the user in no time at all. Plus Bosch has a cook timer for each hob, which automatically turns the element off when it's done--I never would have dreamed how much I would use that feature. My countertops are perfectly level, because we made sure they were when we installed the cabinets.

You're not limited by the minimum counter depth of 25-1/2". Because the range can be installed on an island just as easily. My counters are 29" deep. Standard cabs can be blocked out from the wall. The added inches from deeper counters are among the most valuable in our kitchen work zones.

@theresa21: "If you have more than one pot on the stove, then yes, you'll have to select what element you wish to use for that second pot."

Yup.

"There is a grid on the stove to select which burner, very easy to use. There is no slide of any kind, so I don't know what you mean by" virtual slider."

What happens if you slide your finger back and forth on the "grid"?

P.S. You only have 10 seconds to change the power level after selecting an element.

"Plus Bosch has a cook timer for each hob, which automatically turns the element off when it's done"

That was the only unique Bosch feature that I thought might be useful when I was comparing induction ranges.

@wdccruise I took the challenge and slid my finger back and forth on the grid and nothing happened. I have never needed to slide my finger on the grid, so I never tried that before. 10 seconds seems like a really long time to me to make a selection. I don't recall a single instance when I couldn't perform the selection within 10 seconds.

Here is the new Induction Bosch with knobs that is coming to the market. I noticed that cook timers are not a featured item with this model. I think the Bosch Benchmark that I own is far better because of the cook timers and lack of knobs to clean around. And this model is lacking the Flexinduction feature..

@theresa21: "I took the challenge and slid my finger back and forth on the grid and nothing happened."

So you must touch the "grid" to change the power level, you can't slide your finger along the "grid" to change the power level as you can (or must) with cellphone controls. Interesting.

"I noticed that cook timers are not a featured item...And this model is lacking the Flexinduction feature."

I expect that Bosch has determined that many purchasers just want a range with that "pro" look (i.e., square box on legs) and don't care much about features. And that it can shrink the oven and raise the price $600 over the old model too!

We’re looking into the Bosch all gas slide in 30” range (HGI8056UC) and have similar questions.

The cutout dimensions are close to the induction range discussed here. They are calling for a 25 ⅜” deep cutout if installed in an island (please see attached).

As discussed in this thread, this is not “typical” as a standard base cabinet is 24”deep, so looking for guidance.

Since we are installing in a new peninsula we have the ability to have the range go deeper (if needed), but it probably doesn’t make sense to install non-standard base cabinets.

Some questions:
1) Our kitchen designer came up with a plan to support this (explained to us to help provide for a cleaner install and help with support). Attached is a drawing of this design.

Some notes: the kitchen designer is proposing to add a back panel add 3 extensions on the base cabinets (to make them 25 ⅜” deep).

To us, it seems a bit unnecessary/unneeded, vs. simply sliding the range back.

What’s your take?

2) Why does this range have a different cutout (we think because the lip that extends over the countertops, see here)?

3) What’s the potential issue if we don’t cutout 25 ⅜” and just the standard 24” (I believe Bosch won’t honor the warranty)?

4) If this range dies, and we provide for a 25 ⅜” cutout, then we’re kind of stuck with this nonstandard cutout. Is this something that Bosch has committed to (doesn’t seem like there any other brands that do this nonstandard cutout). Are we thinking about this wrong?

5) Just to confirm, Bosch is showing that the cutout is of the cabinet and not of the countertop?

Thanks much for your feedback.

@Aaron: "the kitchen designer is proposing to add a back panel add 3 extensions on the base cabinets (to make them 25 ⅜” deep)"

Huh?

"Why does this range have a different cutout"

Because the HGZIT301 which attaches to the rear of the range and is required for an island installation (to allow heat to escape from the rear of the range) makes the range deeper.

"What’s the potential issue if we don’t cutout 25 ⅜” and just the standard 24”

The range will stick out into the corridor.

"Just to confirm, Bosch is showing that the cutout is of the cabinet and not of the countertop?"

Bosch assumes that the range will be installed within a cabinet (or rear wall) of the specified dimensions on all three sides.

-- amateur

Thanks much for your reply.

I'd appreciate your feedback on the approach to add a back panel and the 3 extensions- hopefully the drawing will help to illustrate.

Based on what you described that Bosch assumes (see below), maybe it does accomplish what Bosch is assuming.

Because without the back panel and extensions it actually would just be "empty space"...although only for the difference between 24" and 25 3/8"...since we're using 24" base cabinets.

"the range will be installed within a cabinet (or rear wall) of the specified dimensions on all three sides"

Thanks again.

I see now. The extensions would form gaps between cabinets, and between the range and the cabinet behind it but those gaps would be covered by the panel (at the left) and countertop.

Note that CR tested the Bosch HGI8056UC which is nearly identical to the Bosch Benchmark HGIP056UC and it achieved a very low score (56 out of 100) and was not recommended. The GE Profile PGS930YPFS achieved a score of 80 and is recommended. It requires a standard 24" cutout (even in an island) and does not require a trim piece such as that $219 HGZIT301.