This is what we used in our mudroom, hallway and powder room (which is off the same hallway but not visible in the picture.) We like it and we get alot of compliments on it. It's 3x16 set in a herringbone pattern (Crossville Tuscan Clay series in Maronne.) It's smooth and easy to clean, and the color variation hides dirt (we have a puppy and 2 kids.) It's next to the hardwood floors in our kitchen, but down 2 steps so there is a natural transition. Here's a view that kind of shows it by the wood floors. HTH

When I suggested running it the long way I was considering the best look for the bathroom beyond too. I like a long edge to run into the room. It will make less cuts by the tub too so the edge is tidier. I don't know how wide the hallway is but to me the layout looks very chopped up since there's only one full tile in each course. With the 1/3 offset that an amateur should probably use it will be even choppier. It will be one large format tile next to a sliver of the other. The pic Bill posted is beautiful, but it looks like the hall pattern follows the pattern that was chosen for a larger space. That's why I like the stacked pattern here, running the length of the hall and then continuing into the bathroom.

I wouldn't put wood ceramic tiles in kitchen since you are having wood look laminate elsewhere. I would opt for a tile that you like. Are there inspiration photos that you are drawn to. I am not sure what regulations are for your condo in terms of sound abatement. In my experience, there are no soundproofing regulations for bathrooms and kitchens in condos because these rooms were not intended to have carpets or rugs and were generally originally built with some kind of hard flooring. There is probably more noise carried from showers and toilets than people walking in the bathrooms.

Durock's website says to install on wood. But I found this info... Manufacturer Recommendations James Hardie Industries, makers of HardieBacker®, and USG, makers of Durock®, indicate that their respective cement backer boards should not be installed over concrete. James Hardie: HardieBacker specifications specifically exclude concrete as a base for installation. USG: Durock does not expressly exclude concrete, but the material is specified only for minimum 5/8-inch exterior-grade plywood or OSB. One source reports that USG will not officially validate the Durock-to-concrete attachment simply because they have not tested it. The lack of testing may be simply because so few customers express a need for applying Durock to concrete. There is no problem with the two materials being compatible. The issue, as Bud Cline of The Floor Pro says, is more about how to attach the cement board to the concrete. A powder-actuated nailer is out of the question since nail depth would be impossible to regulate. Concrete screws, Cline says, have heads that are too small to hold down the cement board. His recommendation: Work with the concrete surface so that it is strong enough and porous enough to accept tile mortar. Portland cement-based fillers can take care holes and cracks. Painted concrete can be sandblasted, sanded, or ground down to bring up a nice, porous surface. Most tile professionals, including John Bridge, concur: Attaching cement board to concrete is not an acceptable way to surface the concrete prior to tile installation. Thin-set alone will not help the cement board stick to the concrete slab. Screws are the only logical way to do this, but it would entail an extremely tedious and time-consuming process of drilling pilot holes before sinking the screws. Additionally, you would be fighting against the thin-set bed under the cement board when drilling the holes and driving the screws. The View of Tile Professionals But the manufacturer prohibitions or omissions are warranty issues. The questions remain: Can you effectively pair two cementitious products—cement board and a concrete slab? ************************************ I went to Wedi's website, and the foam panels CAN be used on concrete for floor tile. Installation over concrete subfloors Floor application for wedi Building Panel All wedi Building Panel sizes and thicknesses can be used as tile underlayments over concrete subfloors. Modified thinset mortar, combed through with a minimum 1/4” x 1/4” notch trowel, will then provide a ribbed bed into which the wedi Building Panels will be laid. All joints should be staggered so that no seam continues throughout the length of the floor. Apply weights (i.e. tile boxes) onto the surface and where transitions are located while the mortar is setting up. After the mortar has set, wedi alkali resistant fiberglass mesh tape, or wedi Sealing Tape or wedi Joint Sealant should be applied to all seams, then tiling can begin. So Wedi panels may be easier and faster for us to install after the marble tile is gone. I also found a new floating porcelain tile product that Dal Tile started selling. It is like installing laminate flooring or vinyl planks. Dal Tile Revo Tile - they said I could install it over the marble as long as I level the floor with self-leveling compound, including where the missing tile is. I still need to follow requirements per tile industry as to x " per 10 ft. I can't remember ... 3/16" or something like that. https://www.daltile.com/revotile $4.50 sf plus $25.00 for tools, $58.00 for 9 lbs of grout. Underlayment $54.00. Adhesive tape for seams. $542.00 and I can install it. I am calling We Ship Floors tomorrow to see if their floating Supercore Extreme Vinyl Tiles can be installed over my marble once the floor is leveled. And if I can install over Wedi panels. For someone who works with mud day in and day out, I am sure it is much cheaper, but I am afraid that I can't do it. Three more tile guys today told me wrong installation procedures for backerboard on the marble and for the tub surround, so I will not be calling them back. Just because they owned a trowel doesn't make them an expert on tiling,