I've been using Mega HD Clear on most of my white/light jobs and on other jobs where I was using regular Mega with the Mega Booster. It's working well. I like the slightly higher sheen in the satin (25 to 35) compared to Traffic (15 to 20) and the lower cost. Mega spread rate is 500' to 600' per gallon where Traffic is 350' to 400' per gallon. I personally like the lower film build that maintains more of the grain texture on the surface where Traffic looks too smooth and plastic. The Traffic must wear better and it's nice to tailor the sheen level to customer desires (semi gloss, satin, extra matte and naturale) but I think it's overkill for most homes. Before Bona introduced Mega HD Clear and re-formulated Traffic, their only clear non-yellowing urethane was Novia which is pretty cheap stuff. Neither finish should require an extra coat when new unless you think you're going to neglect the floor and are worried it will wear out. Most homeowners (at least the ones we work for) will recoat the floor after it gets scuffed, scratched and somewhat worn, but well before it wears through. The floor will receive the same amount of wear and need a recoat when it looks unacceptable, whether you're applied 2 coats or 20 coats initially.

As stated above, mixing manufacturers can be tricky. DuraSeal works well with water based finishes because DuraSeal MAKES water based finishes. Minwax does not. Minwax produces oil based finishes that are illegal in 11 states. Bona is MUCH more expensive than either DuraSeal and most definitely more than Minwax. I am extremely pleased to see a professional reach for Bona stain for Bona Finish. That tells me all I need to know. @Design2 girl - If you are getting used to the colour (as it is) then feel free to see if a small discount can be given for leaving it in place. If you feel this is not the colour you want to live with, then you will need to have it sanded off and start fresh. A double application of stain is a NO-NO in the flooring industry. The second coat can and will PREVENT bonding of the finish to the wood! That means you run the risk of the floor pealing like a sun burn! Yep. In a few days to a few months the whole thing could slough off like snake skin. Not pretty. Personally I like the colour as it is right now. This mid-tone cool brown (not much yellow/orange) is very desirable. I would put down some satin finish over top and enjoy a very handsome floor.

The second "problem" picture is the only one I'd address, and that would probably entail rubbing the area down by hand with a maroon pad, glazing with NordicSeal or some of the surface finish tinted with a little white tint. Then I'd tape off all the perimeter of all the affected boards and apply one coat of urethane. The others are either not bad enough to address or look to be in an inconspicuous spot. Were it mine to do I'd consider trying my fix on spot #1 since it doesn't appear to be in a traffic pattern and may be covered by furniture. With this strategy one can wipe or lightly sand off the extra tint if it looks bad. Sanding to raw wood is almost guaranteed to fail. I can't tell you how many times I have seen people try to fix spots that aren't that bad and end up making them worse. Wood floor refinishing will NEVER be perfect since it's done by imperfect beings. My philosophy is to aim for 100% perfection but be happy with 95%. If your whole floor is 95% or better, you don't want to risk that by trying something that would make it worse. It's quite easy to turn a 95 into an 80, which may trigger a complete refinish. Then when that refinish goes wrong and you're doing it for a third time you'll kick yourself. Even with the minimal work I proposed there's a real risk that the touchup may be more visible or that the surface finish doesn't have the same sheen. This is a potential issue since that spot will have more coats than the rest of the floor. NordicSeal can be tricky. Applying a tinted sealer uniformly is difficult. I suspect that the area in your first picture was buffed a bit too aggressively, removing some of the white tinted sealer. That may have happened in the second area also. The last four spots look to be so faint that it would be extremely foolish to attempt a fix.

With a bleached floor colour, it is hard to see the 'white lines' you are speaking of. Of course if you wanted a BROWN floor, then this is a big ol' oopsa! My biggest issue is the TIME BETWEEN COATS. And the TIME BETWEEN stain and first coat. Adhesion issues when things are rushed. And with Mega One, I WANT to see THREE coats. It is NOT their toughest finish. It works nicely for a family of 2-3 adults, no pets, no-shoes indoor policy. Even with a light traffic situation as I've pointed out, I still want 3 coats. BUT...sigh...the EXTRA MATTE finishes often create a HEAVY HAZE on the floor when you get to the 3-coat thickness. By the sounds of it, you need a redo (just because everything goes against manufacturer's suggestions - including the Bona Mega One requirements to use Bona-stain products). Please try to point out what 'white marks' you are seeing. The photo does not show that level of detail.