Obviously, you love ornamental grasses, but if you put them on an east or north-east exposure, they may not love you. Start with one or two; don't go too nuts -- they might not get enough sun, so you don't want to be experimenting with a big investment. Improve your soil and whatever you get, you need to water regularly (at least 20 minutes of gentle watering every three or four days unless it rains) so you won't have bad spider mite infestations and so azaleas can thrive in what should be perfect light conditions for them. Don't plant shrubs right up against a tree trunk, of course -- they need room for their roots to grow and get water. Hollies and yews should be easy-care, so if they are not doing well for you, examine the soil and your watering schedule. I would put some lovely small ornamental trees -- one, two or three -- near the front door. Try amelanchiers (serviceberry trees) or a cercis. You will get a bit of uplifting height with those slender trunks; the foliage on those is mostly airy and up top. Flank those with Japanese maples -- simple, green viridis -- or part-shade shrubs with lacy foliage... perhaps that newer cultivar of sambucus -- what is it called, 'Black Lace'? 'Black Beauty'? Something like that. Anchor with (evergreen) rhododendrons and/or azaleas, perhaps some mountain laurel (kalmia) or very late-flowering camellia. Tuck a few hydrangeas behind the lower evergreen shrubs. Perhaps also a viburnum or three, but only if it can get some sun. Perennials: hellebores, hostas, epimediums, bergenia, brunnera. Bulbs: ipheion, chionodoxa. Groundcovers: lamium, asarum europaeum. Annuals: impatiens, of course.

I would go for it Rick, I think your location is looking even more encouraging, since it is really a zone 7 and not too wet, I'm guessing. Here in NM, pomegranate does very well throughout the middle and lower Rio Grande Valley, with no protection, and no obvious dieback. Most of this area is in zones 7 and 8, but single digits are not that uncommon, especially where cold air settles in the lowest part of the valley. Some of these areas have reached record lows of -19F! I believe this was in the 1970's, but I would be surprised if there aren't at least some tender plants surviving from before that time. There are some very old pomegranate and fig trees in Albuquerque. I'm experimenting with some pomegranates here in my zone6/7 area and so far so good. I'll be able to say more when/if I get fruit. I started with hardwood cuttings which take very easily, so I think this is a plant that is very condusive to experimentation, since it is easily propagated, and grows well with a mimimum of care. Siting in a warm microclimate is definitely very helpful, as others have already mentioned. Good luck

I'd not add mulch if you are keeping the fabric plus rocks. I'd worry that the roots will struggle as it is for oxygen. Soil gas exchange is necessary for a healthy rhizosphere; roots and microorganisms emit CO2 which needs to be able to freely exit the soil. Oxygen from the atmosphere replaces the CO2 within the soil's pore spaces...if not impeded by layers upon layers. A healthy mulch layer of an organic substance such as wood chips, bark nuggets, or pine straw is considered best for moderating soil temperatures, conserving moisture, and enhancing (even feeding) a vital soil microorganism population. That's the kind of soil environment that encourages a vigorous, strong root system. I'd plan on covering the shrubs for the first couple of years, using a woven material of some kind, no plastic. Avoid excess fertilization all of the time but never fertilize past the mid summer. Same goes for pruning.....avoid any growth promoting procedure past mid summer. Another good tip for promoting robust root systems more likely to withstand severe cold is to water intelligently. Avoid at all costs the kind of watering that encourages weak, shallow roots. I don't know how you can judge the moisture level of the soil and root ball under weed barrier and rocks, though. If you live in an area that experienced severe winter temperatures this past winter, please know that there won't be anything you can do under those conditions. But those times are the exception (we hope) and shouldn't dictate whether we want to 'push the envelope ' or not.

I'm learning too, so take my (extremely spammy) advice with a grain of salt. I start seeds early so I can transplant them into my garden, so hopefully my advice will help. When using seeds from last year, depending on the type of plant, the amount of seed that may still be viable will vary from type to type. Some seeds last seemingly forever, while others need to be planted the same year they were collected. Do some research online to find out. Be careful with potting soil. Many brands can be too thick in texture and full of things like fertilizer, which can affect your seedlings' ability to grow. It's better to get seed starter soil, or soil that's lighter in texture. As for florescent lighting versus LED: not all light from bulbs will work for growing. It all depends on your setup, what you're growing, what sort of budget you have, and if you're growing indoors or just starting plants to place outdoors when spring arrives. The last one is important because the larger and more mature the plant, the more light you'll need. If you're just starting seeds indoors, most types of florescent lights should do the trick, though more experienced people here may have better ideas. Florescent lights are generally inexpensive and widely available, which is probably why that site recommended them. Since this'll be in a greenhouse, you'll have to consider things like moisture (ie, will the light fixture be okay being in a greenhouse year after year?), how you'll hang your lights, and how you'll space them around your seedlings. I grow in the basement, so I use a wire shelving unit and raise the seed beds to the light. If you can't hang your lights from the ceiling, you can possibly affix your lights to a frame (you can make your own with wood, pipes, repurposed shelves, buy kits, etc) and put them on small chains with s-hooks, so you can bring them up as the plants get higher. I plug my lights into a timer so that they're not on 24/7, which saves electricity.