Thanks to all for your feedback; in short: - the property is City-owned, but the maintenance of same is left to the home owner. The City does not maintain residential sidewalks and generally does not deal with them unless public construction requires it, a homeowner requests assistance, or a formal complaint is lodged. - the width of 3' is considered standard for sidewalk cut-outs, as far as I can tell. The City of Los Angeles, among other municipalities, approves of this width as a standard minimum for pedestrians, strollers, wheelchairs, etc. - I decided to try using plastic paver edging, which is held in by metal stakes. This seems to be a standard solution and should provide a solid edge next to the pavers to prevent wash-out. - I've decided to forego the construction of a retaining wall, as the landscaping is really secondary to the sidewalk pavers. Construction of this terraced "box" is probably an extraordinary effort for what is a public walkway. - I may use gravel in place of the mulch in the landscaped area, as it should be more resistant to wash-out and allow some dispersion of the water flow. Thanks again- -m-

I just stumbled upon this discussion and felt compelled to make my contribution. I know brick because I work for a brick manufacturer. However, I will try to keep my personal bias at bay. The first issue to address is durability. When installed properly, either option will provide many decades of service. Both materials have the compressive strength and moisture absorption ratings to withstand the harshest climates nature can throw at them. There is actually another factor affecting cement pavers, but since it doesnt actually cause failure of the unit, I will address it in the appearance section. Either way, make sure your bricks/pavers are designed to go in the ground. Not all cement materials, nor are all bricks designed to do this. It was mentioned that the deterioration of house bricks in a patio was unheard of and that it would actually be an advantage to find reclaimed bricks from a demolition project. DO NOT DO THIS! For a segmental paving material to withstand Mother Nature, it must have a minimum compressive strength of 8,000 psi and a maximum absorption rate of 7% after a 24 hour soak in cold water. I have seen historical test data from the mid 1900Âs that showed that many solid house bricks (which were often used mistakenly as pavers) had compressive strengths around 5,000 psi and absorption rates in the double digits! Needless to say, those ill-fated patios are either long gone or a horrible eyesore now. Now that you can be comfortable in choosing a durable product, the second issue to address is appearance. Additional factors besides just the look of the brick/paver should be considered. For instance, do you want your pavement to match the colors of the bricks on your house? Will you be incorporating any retaining walls in your project? No matter how hard you try, you simply cannot match a clay color in a cement product and vice versa. Brick makers do not currently make a dry-stack retaining wall system; therefore a brick retaining wall will require more work. However, if you are trying to create a stately atmosphere it may be worth the additional work (or hiring of a mason contractor) to build your retaining wall. The first factor of appearance, the look of the actual brick/paver does speak pretty much for itself. However, I do want to address some comments from the thread. To my knowledge (I have not researched this) cement pavers have always had their colors mixed throughout the paver. (End lack of research warning.) What is actually happening is fading due to ultraviolet radiation. This can be mistaken for the coloring only being on the surface because with time cement pavers will actually wear down. This is evident in a cement paver project once it has been installed for about 10 years. Because the erosion is visible (you can actually see the aggregate) it is commonly believed that coloring is superficial as well. I do not see the issue of erosion as a durability factor since the units will still be in one piece and the pavement system as a whole will not fail. (Personal bias warning in effect)However, after all your hard work and money put into your project, wouldnÂt you want it to look the same as it does now in ten years? (End bias warning.) To be fair, cement pavers can be sealed on an annual basis to ensure their color retention. However, when you add up the cost of initial construction and yearly maintenance over ten years, you could probably install solid granite for about the same cost. (I havenÂt done the math and may have exaggerated, so research it for yourself and see.) There are advantages for both products (Although one list may be longer than the other!) and your unique concerns and application should be considered. In addition, other pavement options such as bluestone and granite are worth researching and considering as well. I know this has been an extremely long reply, but I sincerely hope it helps you make an informed decision. While there are not as many "genuine clay paving brick" retailers as paver retailers, we are out here. Do your research and you will find us!

We had a similar problem but on a smaller scale. When our plaster was acid washed, muriatic acid was spilled on our stained concrete deck. It wasn't washed off quickly and resulted in two large discolored spots. The decking crew tried to fix the spots but it only made it worse. The PB agreed to cut out that section at the expansion joints and repour. After the first repour and acid wash the new section was way too dark. We repoured a second time and it was significantly lighter than the rest of the deck. The third try was closer but still stood out to the point where the PB agreed it wasn't acceptable. While waiting for the fourth repour I decided I couldn't make it any worse so I started experimenting with ways to change the color. I bought the same powdered release that was used on the deck and mixed a pinky sized scoop into an old windex bottle full of acetone. The acetone cut through the deck sealer and slooowly began to darken the new section. It took a few days with me on my hands and knees spritzing the deck but I eventually got the color to match. Once I had it where I wanted it I put another coat of sealer on top. It's now held up for a year and you can't tell that it wasn't part of the original pour. When the decking crew came back for the fourth pour I was just finishing up and they couldn't believe it was fixed. Since I bought the release and fixed the problem the PB through in a couple of extra valve actuators. The stress wasn't worth it but I at least felt like it was a fair trade monetarily. A few things I learned along the way: - It is possible to change the color of the deck but it takes a long time and a lot of work. - It's virtually impossible to match a repour to existing concrete considering all of the variables. Sorry for the long-winded post. Based on your pictures I don't know if this approach might work for you or not but know that it is possible to change the color. As I think back on it I know the feeling you're experiencing and it isn't pleasant even a year later. I sincerely hope you get this resovled. Here are a couple of before and after pics.

Okay... here is my color concrete lesson of the day. 1. Never hose down colored concrete once it's poured. (1st mistake). This causes uneven curing and moisture absorbsion rate. 2. Color concrete should be sealed same day as pour. (2nd mistake). 3. Never acid wash colored concrete. (3rd mistake). They have a special cleaner to deal with effloresence that isn't so harsh as acid. Since my finish is basically ruined the solution is to cover with one of their concrete stains. He said it will solve the problem and give me a uniformed color. A relatively easy and inexpensive fix. About $500 which my concrete contractor says he will take care of at his costs and that he'll do whatever it takes to make it right. Fortunately I don't have Janey's problem with the 'entrained air'. The concrete rep said I have a good concrete pour. Janey - he also suggested that rather than demolish your concrete and start over his company has a concrete overlay product that would cover and protect the current problems and you would be able to have any color or finish that you want. Their website is www.qcconprod.com. This would cost thousands of dollars less. I'm not sure how much sf you have - but it may be a good alternative than ripping out your concrete and he said it would protect it from further deterioration. After I relect on my entire project I now realize that nothing has gone to plan, cost or time as originally projected. We started our backyard project last April and we are now just finishing up on details and landscaping (after a winter break).... sigh. At least we have water in the pool and can swim :) Here is a link that might be useful: QC Concrete Products