If your window ledge was flush with the area behind the sink (i.e. it didn't overhang and have the "wings" cat_mom and I mentioned in previous posts), you could continue all around with your window casing on all 4 sides. But something to consider is the width of the casing and having wood right by your sink & faucet. Unless it is very narrow, you will likely have a very narrow band of tile for backsplash by your sink--it will be mostly casing. Personally, for durability (and I'm not especially messy at the sink), I'd rather have tile or some other more durable material for the area by the sink than a wooden window casing right where the tap is. But YMMV! Just a thought. I think having the same black granite on the ledge (as on your counters), with a bit of an overhang then having all tile backsplash between the counter and the ledge will look great.

Thanks very much for your response. The brand is West Shore. They only sell in PA. Since you responded to me, and I had around the same time decided to cancel the contract, which I conveyed to them via email, they came back (basically overnight) with a price of just under $20,000. I'm beginning to think that is more reasonable for 11 windows. The trapezoids, though, are approximately $2400 a piece (I had mistakenly written $1800 in my previous email - I thought that is what the salesman had said when we met with him - in coming back with the new price, he emailed the before and after cost sheet, though I had not seen the price of the trapezoids written down when we met with him so I don't know if he changed the original sheet), which are the biggest cost hitters (a little over $12,000 for 5). Other details: the 4 large windows are double hung, but the trapezoids do not open (and as I had noted, they are double pane rather than triple pane). With respect to installation, the company hauls away the old windows (whatever materials besides the glass that includes). I guess the primary question I have is, do specialty shapes like trapezoidal windows drive up the cost that much, especially given that, at least in our case, they don't open? Also, they showed us the various layers of materials that cover the surface of the glass that stop UV light and possible infrared (maybe through better reflection), but allow the visible to come through. I assume those treatments would drive up the cost. The company also uses it's own installers (i.e., they don't contract out). I believe their products are good quality. Also, they have an A+ from the BBB and high ratings from the industry itself (I don't know whether these things are easy to acquire or not). Finally, one other thing he said, which may be baked into the prices of the large and trapezoidal windows, is that because there are relatively small distances between the windows (the array of 4 large and 5 traps effectively forms a giant picture window in the front of the house), they are going to cover wood between with vinyl so that we will never have to paint the wood around them again (I didn't request that, so maybe it's something they do with such structures). Anyway, that may be something to consider as well, though it's not an explicit cost line item on the cost sheet. Thanks in advance for any advice you might be able to provide.

I am amazed that you are having to deal with creating a bigger window to face a lake view... In this day and age we are installing 6'x8' windows in homes with lake views. Regardless, it sounds like you have a problem to solve. So that you go into this project with eyes wide open, both options you are considering are significant construction projects, but both will yield great results in increasing space if that is a must. I have installed many windows over the years, and bay window units are always tricky because they require a lot more reinforcement and support than most people think. Do it right and you have a great space for sitting, and storage. Do it wrong and you have a potential mess on your hands. Bumping it out by extending the slab also has its challenges. Not only do you need to consider moving out the slam, but you have additional framing, you will need to consider tying in the roof line, and there are a lot more people involved in the project than just the window installer. I can't tell you which way to go on this because the final look will be up to you. I will say be very diligent about getting the bay window installation bid. If you are putting a bay with a seat board, it is a must to have the proper support, both above and below the bay window unit. One other thing to consider is not bumping out the wall, but adding a much larger window to the wall. While the new window will not add space to the room, it will open it up and make it feel bigger. This option will also cost significantly less that either of the two bump out options you are considering. Here is a link that might be useful: San Antonio Windows and Doors

My problem is that I loved our custom made plantation shutters in our front window until the green windows happened. I leave the shutters open now, have taupe curtains hanging in the windows between them, and I’m on the fence about taking down the shutters. I’m still mad. And to add to my anger, we had a “new” window hire at Lowe’s (we discovered was fired months later) who insisted we could only get new Pella 350 in equal halves instead of the larger size on the upper window, replacing exacwhat we had. This changed the look of our beautiful custom shutters, which no longer were set at the proper position of the openings for the new windows. UGH!!!!!!!! Sorry for venting….