I'm replacing my ADP coil after two years of operation. I have a small leak in one of the capillary tubes. When I spoke with a Trane authorized dealer I was informed of two things. First the ADP coil does not carry the same warranty as Trane 1-5yrs in my case vs. 5-10 for trane. Second, even though ADP is going to replace the coil they will not warranty it beyond the date of the original start-up. ADP's clock starts running 1yr after manufacturing. They don't keep records of when they were sold or who they sold them to. This is probably not the case it's their customer service center passing this along. So as I would see it if your Heat and AC guy is pairing an ADP coil with your AC it's about cost. Here in Ga many companies working for builders rig these combos to save the builder money and to keep a job with them. Save yourself the headache and go with all trane parts because you aren't going to get the warranty with ADP. Most importantly our service men are receiving calls on these all the time. ADP builds them to order now so they don't have as much standing inventory as they once did, but consider this. They build a coil in the hay-day of building and it sits on a shelf for 6 mos. The builder has a system installed around that same time but doesn't sell the house and 18 mos later the bank owns it. Someone comes along buys the house from the bank and has the system turned on and the coil is already out its 1yr warranty. The Trane furnace is still in warranty but the coil is not. Just a thought.

I will tell you upfront that my knowledge on the wiring aspect of HVAC is limited. With that said, you may consider calling a local professional referred to you by someone else to come out and get things working the way they should be for you. That's strange about the air handler, because the way I understand it, things should be wired as such: (thermostat)-->(air handler)-->(heat pump). Colors don't always mean anything, but usually orange is your reversing valve (terminal O). Your air handler should have a Y terminal.

however offering some help or advise, beyond call a professional would have proven more useful than cynical comments . Kevinande, The problem with your comment is that HVAC is a skilled trade in which codes and procedures must be followed to prevent injury to unskilled person working on such equipment, damage to equipment in question, damage to the building in which the equipment is located and health related problems of occupants at a later date due to the lack and skill of those attempting these kinds of things. The help I offer on this board is advice for those who appear to me, not attempting to do the work themselves but hiring professional help. This is a tough love situation. Your home is one of the biggest liabilities you will have in your lifetime. In my experience you only make things worse attempting to do things you do not have the skill or knowledge to do. I have been running HVAC service for 24 years. I will never support a DIY attitude because: in every situation in which the home owner has attempted such things before calling me has only made matters worse, increased the cost to fix the problem up to an including the need to pull equipment and replace it. If you fail to heed my warning, you get the brunt end of the stick. It's because I care I say these things. [Tough Love]

1. Don't run your alarm control panel off the 24 volt AC furnace power. Since your thermostat cable has 3 unused wires, use those wires to get the needed power from the utility room up to the thermostat to power your alarm panel. Mount a DC power supply of sufficient power near the furnace, connect the power into two of those unused thermostat wires and you now have power available up at the thermostat to run your alarm panel. 2. I would use black and orange wires or brown and orange wires for the DC power, your choice. 3. You don't need a licensed electrician, this is low voltage so you can DIY. Just keep the DC power separated from the thermostat power.