Are you looking for an oven only, or are you looking for a cook top, or a complete range? How much of a range would you like, and how much budget are you thinking appropriate? And do you want to have a GAS or ELECTRIC cook top, and will your oven be built into it and will it be a GAS or a DUAL FUEL or an ELECTRIC....Do you want a SINGLE LARGE OVEN, or a CONVECTION/INDUCTION/WHATEVER with a warming drawer or microwave functions. It really does gets confusing, doesn't it!! I'm going through the same thing, but I've changed from a simple gas cooktop to a gas range, with a true temperature gas oven, only 24" wide. The more I learned, the better I could define my needs. Like the size of my household is only TWO. How many are YOU going to be cooking for? Do you entertain a lot? Are you thinking PRO style appliance if you are a serious cook? The stove tops in gas appliances are made to have various BTU ranges, with one big honker or maybe two, which cranks up the BTUs, and with an inner ring/burner which can be used for simmering. But if you want to have a big pot going on that burner, having another simmering burner is a big plus. The smaller burner is a nice feature to have standing on its own. And then a couple of medium BTU burners could be the workhorse of the stove top. I recommend that you read some of the threads about stoves which discuss the advantages of various features. This forum is probably one of the quickest to turn over topics and a question asked this hour will be going onto the next page by morning!! You came to the right place to research your dilemma.

if the water the issue i wouldn't recommend engineered wood. true it withstands moisture better than whole wood but it's still wood. Kitchen-yes. Smth like bathroom or basement-no. I wouldn't. It won't work the same as tile. Or as vinyl Ceramic wood tile can be a great solution if installed properly, and if correlates well with adjacent places. Vinyl plank, I don't know about enough. I know people seem to love it Neither of choices is incredibly expensive, not neccessarily very cheap either. Tile should be very durable choice though, it being tile. So if already to change-I'd go with tile.

I think it’s permanent. When we measured with laser it was completely straight line but after laying tiles it starts flash with floors but goes about 1/4 inch gap to wards the end. I think by the time we get to the end it will be more than 1/4 inch. I was thinking to take off more about 4 inches of wood and lay a piece of sand wood opposite direction to make a transition point but that will probably only work if time end up flash with floor height that I will see only after wood is sanded.

Spring is for planting!!!! Plant the grass now. Don't buy grass seed from bags in a big box store. Much of what's in them is weeds. Well they're weeds in your climate. In other climates the seed you need would also be weeds for them. But your not only paying for seed you don't need but you're planting seed that'll haunt you forever. I'm talking Bermuda grass. My neighbor planted about a 1/3 of an acre with the stuff. It's all over the beds, A 3 foot wall of brown grass all winter in the vacant lawn on the other side of me. It's invaded the deep woods in back. And it sends runners all through my gardens. Find a place that sells grass seed from a large container with a scoop and a scale. Find a mix with perennial rye, fescue and Kentucky Blue grass. Here they sell a mix called Penn State Mix, maybe they sell the same mix as Mass Mix, I don't know. What I've always used is from Pennington Seed. They're getting bashed on the Internet, but I've never had problems with it. They used to recommend 3 pounds per 1000 Sq Ft. Now they say 4 pounds. I've always applied grass seed thick. Maybe 6 pounds per 1000 Sq Ft. I'd suggest you cover it with bulk Mushroom Compost which doesn't smell as bad as manure. When it rains on it or you water it most of the smell is gone. On either product. Spread the seed and then the mushroom compost about an inch thick. Throw the shovels full or rock the shovel so it falls off the sides as you rock. The depth isn't a science project. Two inches won't stop the seed from sprouting or keep the old grass from coming up thru it. But 2 inches costs twice as much as an inch. As far as the crab grass it's too late for this year. It's already sprouted. 2nd or 3rd week of April is about it to keep it from sprouting with pre-emergent. Weed killer won't kill it as it's a grass. As far as watering don't over do it. If it rains don't water. If it rains this evening don't water tomorrow, unless it gets to 90 or so. Remember one of the advantages of the mushroom compost is it keeps moisture in and under it. After it sprouts you'll see off grass sprouting. It has a different lighter green color. Pull it, it should come out easy. Walking on the grass won't hurt it. Mow it when it needs it. Waiting till you can't get the mower thru it or can't pick up the clippings won't make it worth putting off mowing. You can use a weed killer a month after the seed germinates. But remember; the fescue and Kentucky Blue grass takes 3 weeks to germinate. So wait at least 6 weeks to apply weed killer. This fall over seed with the same grass seed or spot seed as needed. Next spring apply the Pre-emergent for the crab grass.