I just have a minute because I really came in here at 6:00 a.m. to work on my blog site! eks6426, I think it just depends on what you have your heart set on for your kitchen. I have already expressed my views on kitchen hoods, but IÂm not an oracle, just a guy with an opinion. The white one you just posted, though, could easily be modified to have your 15" cabinets on either side, and if those cabinets are the most important part of that particular configuration to you, then that is a very rewarding direction in which to go. Also, looking at the picture you posted, I find it difficult to believe that the people with this hood actually use the cabinet above the stove/hood for any significant storage, because to access it they would have to move those plates. There might be some Christmas dishes behind those doors, or nothing at all! But it is a nice treatment for that particular kitchen, and it is something other than the usual, bland range hood. The glory of kitchen hoods, though, is that you can do just about anything with them, and especially this is so if you have one custom built. I have suggested using your cabinetmaker, but there are also companies that make custom hoods out of masonry, the metal I linked to in my earlier postings, and a number of artificial materials. All you need for the hood is the actual hood mechanism itself, which can be purchased separately. Now build something around it, and since youÂre designing it yourself, or commissioning someone to design it, the only thing that limits you is imagination. In your case, eks6426, since you already have the custom cabinetmaker working for you, I stand by my earlier advice. Work with him and see what happens. Truthfully, I donÂt think you can go wrong with a custom wooden hood, if you work to integrate it into the rest of the kitchen. The spectacular ones with columns work well for some kitchens, but not all of them. The one you just posted works well, too, for some kitchens. It just depends on what you want and how the rest of the kitchen is designed. But you get to decide, because itÂs your kitchen. You know what you want for your kitchen, what you have been fantasizing using for so long a time now. And if those 15" cabinets on either side are what you most often think about, then, by golly, make sure that whatever hood you eventually install has those cabinets. OK, my blogs are waiting for me. But good luck with your kitchen. I wish I had that much space in our home, but we have long since decided that weÂre not going to undergo the major renovation that would be necessary for us to have a big kitchen. WeÂll start small and stay small!

If there is enough space in the existing junction box (very likely), you can use it for a junction that has wiring going two ways out: one wire continuing on to the kitchen receptacles and one hard-wire to the range hood. However, the junction box must remain accessible (not hidden behind a cabinet), and the number of wires entering, exiting, and spliced in the box cannot exceed the "box fill" capacity. Most standard size boxes would be big enough to serve a junction for this circuit. I don't think there is a code requirement for a dedicated line to a range hood, although most folks do use a dedicated breaker if you have a combination hood/microwave because many of the new microwaves are much higher power. Bruce

To do a wood surround like that, your Kitchen Designer will need to duct the air flow generated by the insert to somewhere. You’ll need a duct and exhaust grate similar to a HVAC return, positioned either at the top of the hood, or ducted 90 degrees through a wall into an adjacent pantry or utility room. Since tecirculating does not typically provide the air flow that a ducted hood can provide, you will also end up with more effluent on the surround and cabinets. That means more frequent cleaning, and the possibility of damage to all of the surrounding wood surfaces over time. That is why that most who need to do recirculating end up with a stainless under cabinet hood or stainless chimney hood, as it will withstand the care regimen better over time. Function rules over form. Be sure that the hood capture area is wider and deeper than the cooking zone below, as that will help with capture and cleaning both. Finally, consider the scale of the kitchen and ceiling height both when designing the kitchen. Most large mantle hoods appear overbearing in a smaller kitchen with a shorter ceiling. A 30” range often appears dwarfed by the typical proportions needed for a mantle hood. Be very careful here, and be sure that your KD helps you to visualize this through their software. It’s a pretty significant upgrade expense over a stainless hood, and you do not want to have regrets.

It might be easier to think of this hood as being comprised of two assemblies. The outer assembly is made of wood parts rigidly bonded or otherwise attached together to generally resemble a cabinet without a base. The inner assembly (called a liner) is a metal shell that incorporates (hopefully) a set of baffles, light and motor controls, lights, and, optionally, a blower. The blower subassembly comprises a fan blade sub-assembly and a motor sub-assembly. Alternatively, if an external blower is used, then there is also a cover and damper as part of the blower assembly. I would not expect a typical cabinet maker to supply the liner assembly, but may want it on hand to fit to it. As I don't have one of these, I welcome any refinements of my description that may be needed.