I'm pretty certain the material in my 20+ yr old shower door isn't glass-- it's too thin and light, seems to flex a little, and doesn't sound like glass when you rap it. In all this time, it hasn't scratched or etched. I've given up getting the bottom half more than nominally clean, though. Not sure it's Lexan, could be a different sort of thing. Seems to me I've read Lexan and plexi are both forms of acrylic, which is strong but prone to scratching. The Lexan protecting a local church's stained glass has become translucent, almost opaque. I bet if you call a local glass company-- a large one that does commercial buildings-- they could tell you what's available out there.

That seems like a very good price. I did a quick read through, and a couple of things jumped out. There is vinyl siding, and then there is quality vinyl siding. You should get some assurances it would be the latter. $3500 seems like a good price to upgrade to fiber cement. Just make sure it isn't James Hardie brand prepainted siding. There have been a lot of reports of paint failures with that brand, especially in snow country. A 150 amp electrical service is too small by today's standards. Most homes are built with a 200 amp service. Our new home is getting a 400 amp service. Textured ceilings hide lousy sheet rock work and are almost impossible to repair properly. I suggest you insist of flat finished ceilings throughout the main level, and also the lower level, if you don't take my next suggestion. Either have the builder pour a ten foot foundation wall or go with an eight foot ceiling in the lower level. Either way. make it a dropped ceiling. Dropped ceilings provide direct access to the space above them. It's great for running new wires, access to HVAC ducts, tracing a plumbing leak, etc., without tearing the ceiling out. Good luck. It sounds like a nice home.

The improvement anticipated at the minimum would be glass that was not fogged. The frame is good so I am not sure what the advantage of changing that would be but we are willing to be educated. The wood is 25 years old and there is no rot. I gather few wood windows of today unclad last that long. Our 1932 house windows are still going strong structurally also probably again because of the better wood than today and regular upkeep. If there is some insulation or fuel cost benefit from new glass in the porch that would be welcomed but not the main reason for doing it.

What type of special equipment should be used for glass tile installation? I’m asking so that I can ask my installer if he has what it takes. He says he has experience with installing glass tile but doesn’t seem super confident. I figure if he doesn’t have a few of the important basic tools, I need to ask more questions or switch to a plain subway tile to avoid disappointment. The glass would be stunning but I’m ready to switch to ceramic if needed.