adding exterior moulding to brick
My builder is unfamiliar with adding fascia moulding. So I’m doing research here and it seems that fypon is an example of a type of moulding used commonly. We are doing an addition. The architect specified moulding in the addition. However, the original house does not have moulding - the brick goes right up to the gutter. If we decide to add moulding to the addition, can we add moulding to our original house fairly easily so the entire house is cohesive?
Attached is from construction set with a typical wall section for the addition.
Comments (11)
windyejones
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Is it ok that dentil molding won't be applied on top of brick?
Comments (5)Sounds like what you are referring to is frieze board. Normally used to transition from brick to softit/fascia. The frieze board will sit in a brick pocket which helps to prevent air flow in attic and also to stop bugs from getting into the attic as well. Sounds perfectly normal....See MoreMolding on exterior window sill : name?
Comments (6)I checked a few places. None have my same profile. It looks like I will either have to build this up out out of several different cuts of wood, like a 1 x 2 in cedar and a small strip of 1 /2â x 1/ 2âÂÂ, which I donâÂÂt think I can find in any exterior grade of wood (I had a square dowel laying around that fit well into the gap, but it is not exterior grade. ). Alternative is to buy PVC sill , which not the right profile either, but which perhaps I can trim down that projection on the lower left inside edge, if I can use a box cutter or hand saw to do it. What do you think is preferable? I hate to go to all this trouble, only to have more problems down the road. IâÂÂm thinking the PVC would at least avoid rot issues from using the wrong kind of wood. I donâÂÂt like this jerry-rigging....See MoreWhat is the purpose of brick mold????
Comments (11)The term brickmold is used differently today than it was historically. Today, "brickmold" for some window manufacturers means one specific profile (about 3" wide with a barely there ogee profile at the edge). Historically brickmold meant any piece of wood with a molded profile that ran around the joint between brick and wood millwork. Brickmold profiles changed with historic styles, so there's a difference between a Victorian brickmold and bungalow brickmold. Some other current manufacturers will call this window component "staff bead" or "back band," but really brickmold is any piece of molding along the edge of brick at an opening. Brickmold was the historic way to seal the joint between the wood sash pocket and stops and the edge of the brick of the brick opening. The joint might have been packed first with oakum, a tar impregnated rope, that would have acted as a waterproof sealer. The oakum packed joint would then be covered with a brickmold. Brickmolds aren't for function today. They're for aesthetics. Since modern windows are so plain looking, brickmolds are a good way to add some profile and depth to the way the window looks. The curved profile in the picture is the brickmold and combined with some plain stock (diagonal line) gives the window a nice proportion back from the sill. You can see that without the brickmold there would be a gapped seam between the window unit and the brick opening....See MoreAdding contrast and visual interest to blah brick exterior
Comments (18)I would work on the stairs and railings look to thin and flimsy. Broader black curving railings or adding some stone or brick on the stairs then some surrounding landscape with maybe some spreading roses would be nice. The door looks fabulous in dark gray or black! Great house but needs color and landscape maybe some vines to add a bit of depth....See Morewindyejones
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PROMark Bischak, Architect
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3onthetree
last yearlast modified: last yearIf you use a polyurethane moulding (e.g. Fypon), you would need a wood cleat as a backer to attach to - so cleat on the brick, then moulding. Realize that your 'K' style gutter ("ogee") has a profile design which is meant to emulate a crown, and with no overhang to a polyurethane crown those 2 profiles will be adjacent and probably overpowering, where the profile of the polyurethane will be lost visually. Unless this is an old southern plantation with balustraded railings and acorn pediments over the windows, choosing a simple profile or none at all might be better.
Building on what Tim (Charles Ross) said, it appears you have "shingle vents" specified (called out as "low profile roof vents," which could mean anything) to work with no eave overhang. First, verify you are ok with them, many people are not and for most they are a last ditch effort for venting (in this example they are installed higher than the drip edge):
The shinge vent spec is an assumption though, as it seems the architect is passing the buck there. As other alternatives, there are also specific fascia vents or dormer vent styles for low venting.What may be better, is to forego a crown, and install a simple continuous linear soffit vent in the short overhang. That would provide the better attic venting. If CA, verify fire requirements for soffit venting.
PROHALLETT & Co.
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Charles Ross Homes