Yes, same place (except when my five year old showers and then there is one small place outside of the shower that puddles very slightly--no one else splashes that much). And yes I am going to let my GC replace just that tile. I hear everyone saying it's a tear out because kerdi membrane tears if you try to replace just one tile. But schluter specifically allows this kind of repair and my GC described his plan just as the schluter website does. So I don't think I have any justification for demanding a tear out based on resetting one tile. I do understand some are basing their tear out recommendations on the overall slope and/or their guesses of the materials used. And I don't mean to denigrate their recommendations, but we have decided to accept this as-is assuming the repair is successful.

In my contract was an $1800 fee for moving any pipes around, which I had to pay whether I chose to move pipes or not. The plumber asked me if I was okay with the drain where it was, followed by a comment that it would be very difficult if not impossible to move the drain, and it would hold up the job. Because the previous bathroom renovation resulted in a perfectly balanced floor -- with all the water gently moving toward the drain -- I thought such an achievement was normal, so why move the drain and get everyone in a tizzy? NO ONE mentioned what the ramifications would be, although I am paying a project manager, a contractor, and various sub-contractors. I have a meeting with the contractor this week to resolve this issue. Is there any simple way to remedy this without a total rip-out? Should I (in my 60's) try to adapt to this? Maybe this scaled drawing with measurements might be helpful to visualize the situation?

Thanks for responding. My other showers are 36 inch wide, but longer. I am thinking about choosing a rectangular shower but placing the shower door on the RHS, that is, hinges on the RHS so that I can make the shower door 28 inches wide (same as the other showers in my house). It does mean that the shower door would open into the center of the room (not against the wall) and I would be placing the shower valves on the opposite wall from the shower heads. I'm just worried that if I plan for a 24" shower door, by the time all the tile and curbs are in place, it may end up with. at best, space for the minimum allowed 22" door. The problem with space for the vanity is not the entry door; the problem is that I need a walkway from the entry door past the vanity and shower to get to the toilet. I don't want to have to turn sideways to squeeze in-between the vanity and shower to get through. Recommended space is 30 inch minimum width. As I said, I cannot change the entry door or the toilet. I replaced both of them two years ago, without changing the location. I think a 30-inch entry door may be the minimum to meet code. I hate pocket doors -- impossible for me to open. And even if I did like them, it would not work here. The electrical panel for the whole house is in the wall immediately to the right of the entry door. The wall to the left of the entry door is at an angle. So, no place in which to slide a pocket door at this location. I cannot use a barn door here as this bathroom opens to the hallway. My teenage son uses this room and values his privacy. It's difficult to find proper locks for barn doors. And difficult to contain the smells in the bathroom because a barn door is not a tight fit. I did put a barn door in the space between my master bathroom and master bedroom, but that's an en suite. That barn door was custom-made and cost $900 alone, just for the door, not counting the hardware and installation. I waited almost a year for the correct hardware to arrive, after it was installed with the wrong size track.

The inward slope in the pinebaron picture is what I have seen recommended in a Schluter video; however, since the pictured shower does have a low curb, one sloped toward at drain at the entrance probably would have also worked. Schluter sells presloped underlayment for the pans, and they are designed to facilitate installing the linear drain. It all looks very good in their videos. The one big advantage of a standard pre-sloped pan/underlayment is that its even slope in one dimension will give you more options for the tile floor. If you use a pan that has more of a shallow bowl shape with a drain in the middle, you need to use small diameter tile or cut larger tile to allow for all the angle changes in the floor. When its an even slope in one direction you can use larger format tile with very little cutting. Another item to consider is that when you have a curbless or very low curb shower, you should also waterproof the bathroom floor using the same membrane that is under the shower floor, to allow for water that splashes out of the shower. In some cases they also install a floor drain, but that may be overkill if you have at least some type of curb (1/2"?) to keep the water in the shower. Bruce