Thanks Murky, will Prune the branch that is not from the grafting. Yes, there is about a 2" stub on top. For some reason, nursery folks told me leave it. I can prune that too.

Alright, so thanks for all the good advice, though in the end that way didn't work out for me, as I will be out of town for the next two weeks and couldn't get things in time to get them into the ground before leaving. So I decided to make do with what I can get locally, and try to make the best out of it. There's always next year and better planning to extend or do over what I started now. So I got three apple trees between 2 and 3 years old, I think. It'll give me an opportunity to compare the different local sources. Tree 1, the cheapest one ($19) is from Home Depot, Golden Delicious (Dwarf). What was very noticable when planting is that the tree was apparently just stuck into a pot a short time ago, there were was not much on it in terms of roots at all, and the potting mix fell right off. Because of that, and the kinda screwed-up structure, I pruned that tree heavily: Golden Delicious before: and after pruning: I got a $59 Dwarf Honeycrisp tree from a local expensive-ish nursery. However, that tree is 3 if not 4 years old (can't remember now). It had a couple of fruit buds on it, most of which fell victim to my pruning. This tree was in a big pot with an extensive root system, so it must have been grown in this pot for quite some time. I had to untangle / cut lots of circling roots. The shape still isn't that great, the lower branches are at 45 degrees, but I'll keep them and see how it goes. A second, higher, scaffold was started, but it's only short spurs at this time. Honeycrisp tree before pruning I didn't prune it that heavily yet, but looking at the close-up, I think I need to prune off most of the leader (down into two-year old wood) in order to get the 2nd scaffold to grow (hopefully). Does that sound right? I'll try to train down the lower branches, though they're not very flexible anymore. Finally, I got Liberty, semi-dwarf from another nursery at $29, and one to hopefully give me a break on disease. This one is two-years old, has a well developed lower scaffold made from 3 branches. Root-wise, it was so-so. Apparently it is a vigorous grower, as last season the central leader grew more than 3, if not 4 feet. I headed it quite a bit down to start a 2nd scaffold, and I'm trying to train the 1 scaffold to grow more outwards then up (it's currently kinda curved, leaving the trunk at a good angle but then turning upwards. Should I head the side branches? If so, at what point? Liberty before pruning: That's what it currently looks like (except that I used bamboo stakes to straighten the branches): I got no experience with pruning at all, other than what I learned from the internet, so any advice is very welcome. Also, I already got bugs on the Honeycrisp, some very tiny beetles or something, all black, which are apparently munching on the just opening buds (small holes in the new leaves already). Should I do something about them? If so, what? Thanks ;)

Five branches at one point will be too crowded as they grow bigger. I'd take a couple off, but wait a couple months to see how the structure is present. Pinch off the inward growing buds now so branches grow outward and don't cross. Tape sticks around the branch to hold the new growth. New growth may grow a few feet probably more. Pinch the tips to promote branching as needed. You'll have apples to taste next season. Keep the taped sticks on the thinner branches for next seasons crop. I've got five new varieties of nectarines to try from bark grafts I did last season, lots of new apples pears cots and plums to try too.

They should go into your fridge, not freezer. The reason February is a good time is because the tree should be fully dormant and that's about the latest you can count on that. Too early and they spend more time in storage during which they can mold or dry out. With good storage conditions though both are manageable. You want relatively straight new growth that is hardened off and dormant. Maybe pencil diameter in lengths perhaps 6-12" long. Store them in a ziplock bag wrapped in a barely damp paper towel. Put them in the fridge. Every month or so, check and verify that there is still some moisture in the bag and they aren't molding. In the early spring graft them onto another tree or rootstock. Or just buy another King apple tree. It will be the same effect.