I wouldn't recommend putting the tree outdoors at this time as if it is in a weakened state it will die. If this is a common Chinese Elm (Ulmus Parvifolia) it can be kept as a "indoor Bonsai" during the winter and takes on a more evergreen state. I agree with organic_mrbest that Neem is the best, it not only works for killing many insects and some fungus but is a great deterrent. Best of all it 100% organic which means you don't have to worry about it harming the plant you or any pets. That what I've been using for some time now as a stand alone insect repellent. In the future though I would recommend not misting the plant with water while infected, spider mite actually like the moisture. Also if using a soap water mixture it is imperative to be sure that the soapy water does not get into the soil is this will make the problem worse. As far as what to do now I would keep the Bonsai out of direct light, placing it in a lightly shaded area until new growth starts to appear. I would also recommend putting the tree in a humidity tray (If not already) to help since its in an indoor setting. Depending on its size you could use a simple plate or go to a craft store etc.. and buy a serving tray to use. Buy some middle sized gravel (around the size of your pinky nail) to place in the tray, fill it with water and place the tree on it. Make sure the water does NOT touch the bottom of the pot though. DO NOT USE fertilizer when a tree is stressed. I usually also give the tree Trace Elements (which is different than fertilizer) when they are down, but not always necessary. You can find in some online bonsai store or possibly eBay or if you would like I have a friend who has his own buisness that sells it. Also make sure the soil dries sufficiently when you water and if possible try to keep the tree on a slightly dryer side. Hope your tree comes through and good luck. -Mike

Pretty sure as I can be without looking under a magnifying glass, fruitnut. I've dealt with spider mite before. It has JUST started, so the leaves won't be affected, yet. I know miticides are nasty, nasty stuff. Up there with fungicides. I was doing some searching on the Internet and came across the dormant oil/insecticidal soap combo. The soap will just make the oil emulsify, and maybe help to keep the soap stuck on a bit longer. Just a little concerned about using an oil now, since it can get a little warm, now. Although we're not in for any significantly hot weather in the next week or so (maybe even rain. Again!) The webbing has a rather distinctive look, and saw that, and saw what appeared to be very, very teeny, tiny bugs crawling along the webbing. I had the sun at a sharp angle that sort of reflected the little buggars, so about 99% sure. I could use NEEM oil, too, that will take care of them, but I don't want to sacrifice blossoms. My Pink Lady is blooming right now. Patty S.

A new garden bed can be the reason since the Soil Food Web haas not yet developed enough to be of much help. If a soil was greatly lacking in sufficient amounts of organic matter, needed to support that Soil Food Web, it can take 3 plus years for the SFW to get large enough to be beneficial. Although your University of California Cooperative Extension Service does not do soil testing they can help you find labs that will so you can find out what your soils pH and the balance between the macro nutrients is and these simple soil tests may also be of some use. 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

Just please, don't get discouraged if you never really COMPLETELY get rid of them. You need to consistantly spray and hose all winter, especially once you know you have had them, them meaning mealey, thrips, and mites! If you examine them everyday with a magnifying glass as I use to, or look for distorted leaves all winter, you will find them, no matter what you do, especiallly into December, especially if you even let up on your spraying regimand for at least 2 weeks! lol I use to. I almost threw away all my expensive plants at one point, to start all over again. It only takes one mite lurking in the home, window sill, outdoors, floor crevice, or wherever, and they will come back no matter what you use. With a vengence if you use nothing at all! That is the nature of the beast with so many plants. That is why some prefer to just have one plant as compared to those that have hundreds. I am just satisfied knowing that I have the power to at least keep tham at bay, with Tonis insect recipe, and at times with the others suggested here. We can never be certain there are no pests on our plants. But we can be certain that natural sprays other than "chemicals" ones can at least keep the number of them under control. It took me coming here to finally accept this fact. You will find a lot more joy in just being content knowing that you are doing the best you can to at least reduce the amount of pests that would otherwise destroy your babies. We can always have the upper hand if we are diligent! Have a happy growing season..:-)