Cleo, I think your plant was just adjusting to the change. If that is a haworthia or a hybrid thereof, then it will just be approaching the end of its growing season. Haworthias grow in spring and autumn. In the hottest part of summer, they go dormant. They also slow down in the coldest part of the winter. Most of my haworthias are in pure pumice but I also have some in about 40 percent potting soil and 60 percent pumice (I just never got around to repotting them). In zone 7, I water weekly during spring (March to mid-June) and in July, I stop watering. I resume watering in September and slow down on watering around November, when they are brought indoors. Even in winter I water maybe every two to three weeks, I really dont worry too much. The kind you have is one of the sturdier ones (might even been an aloe hybrid?) But as long as its out of the pot, you might as well mix up a better kind of potting mix. I strongly recommend more perlite than soil in your mix. You can water it as soon as you have it potted up---the best way is to water around the plant, closest of the walls of the pot and away from the rosette. If your nights are still going below 16C, you can probably still water it weekly. Keep it in bright shade for the moment though, and probably throughout summer. You don't need to fertilize it until autumn, it won't need it until it has recovered fully from being disturbed. Hope this helps Pagan

Good job! It looks better already and the roots do look healthy, healthier than I had anticipated. It even has a new little offset! If you're worried about the roots, or if it will take you a while to collect new soil, you can shelter them. Wrap a moist paper towel (wet and squeezed out) loosely around the roots, just the roots, 1/4" from the root/ stem juncture. The plant and points of leaf breakage have to be allowed to dry out a bit, to callous over, but roots that are allowed to dry too much may die off. We want the roots to remain healthy and alive. Mist or sprinkle the paper towel with water (lightly- not to saturate to dripping) once a day or two to protect the roots. Change out the paper towel if you see signs of mold or discoloration. I do this, but only with rarer plants that I'm very worried about damaging/losing. Keep the plant indoors in bright light for a couple days and then repot in a well draining mix. You can rinse off the cinnamon beforehand. Water thoroughly one week after repotting. Avoid pots that are much bigger than its original pot, should you choose a different one. I see that the wilting leaves are not completely dessicated. I would leave them since they will still photosynthesize and provide energy for the plant to grow. The tips will probably not recover aesthetically, but they are at least doing some work to help the plant as it recovers. The reason the leaves began wilting and failing is that the plant was planted too low in the soil, allowing moisture to collect and sit in the leaf joints. I think suppliers do this to provide physical support for the plant to stay upright when not well rooted. When you repot, make sure the leaf joints are all above soil level. Use toothpicks or chopsticks as needed to support the upper weight as the roots take hold over the next couple weeks. The lower surfaces of bottom-most leaves can sit on top of the soil surface to provide stability, but no lower. These darker and more leathery varieties of Haworthia do best in morning sun and/or very late afternoon sun. The harsher midday sun tends to burn and bleach the leaves, which doesn't make for a very good looking plant. But I don't think harsh sun is a problem in the UK ;) The most important thing to remember is to provide lots of bright light (not hot midday direct sunlight) and to not overwater. There are no steadfast rules because cultural factors are too varied- temperatures, humidity, wind, light availibity, soil structure, rain exposed or under cover, container material (terra cotta, plastic, glazed clay), root mass to soil mass, whether or not it's a growing period, etc. Change one factor and you create a domino effect. It's important to know your plant as an individual within its particular circumstance, all factors considered, and supplement its individual needs/ protect it from damaging situations. Luckily, the H. attenuata are probably one of the easiest haworthias, and succulents in general, to cultivate and a great start to appreciating succulents. I keep mine in a greenhouse beneath a 50% shade cloth (very bright light all day- about 12 hours) and water once a week spring-fall and maybe once during winter months (which is only late December- mid February here). The most important thing to understand about succulents vs. foliar plants in respect to water: --foliar plants will 'drink' water -- succulents 'absorb' moisture suspended in air gases. They cannot 'drink' water. This is why coarse and well drained soil mixtures are important. It allows for pockets of air that provide moisture rather than sitting water. Succulents sitting in straight liquid, or dense soil that does not provide for air exchange, will set rot very quickly. There are a lot of suggestions for soil mixes on this subforum. Push come to shove, you CAN use a premixed cactus and succulent mix (miracle grow makes one, usually available in small bags at Home Depot or Lowes, I'm not aware of what availability is like is the UK). This is not 'ideal' but it will be a vast improvement on your current soil conditions and will eliminate many 'danger factors' with the lowest cost/ time input. Additionally, collecting all the raw materials for making your mix can be cost prohibitive and time consuming (hard to locate local sources, which cause high shipping costs for online acquisition) for people who keep a couple house plants vs. hobbyist growers with 100s of plants and professional growers with 1000s of plants. The longest possible extra mile for you may be amending what mix you can get your hands on with perlite. Don't be afraid to be generous with it, 50% perlite may be called for in cooler moist areas. This will help ameliorate the hydrophobic tendencies of just C&S mix (mostly peat, which tends to be very hydrophobic once dry, is a measurable constituent of the mix) and afford more air pockets for available moisture/ air exchange. With lots of perlite, you may want to consider a gravel top dressing since perlite floats and every watering will result in some washing away and separating. Aquarium gravel works fine, and a white/ light colored gravel will provide some albedo for additional light availability from below. Of course, if you're interested in acquiring materials to form your own soil, there may be some members here that know of sources in the UK. A bonsai society in your area may be a good resource as well.

Haworthias don't need strong sun, but good light is essential. Old leaves will naturally brown and wither, but not one every 2 weeks. Did you repot it? It may be that original soil is too water retaining - it looks like it is peat. Your plant would be much better off in a mix of mostly inorganic materials, like grit, perlite, turface, pumice, scoria. While some discoloration happens in the center at times, check it for softness. If those leaves are soft, it may be rotting. I would think 34 degrees is in Celsius? If so, that is warm - not cold, and shouldn't be a problem for your plant.

Hi W, You sound anxious about this, pls calm down & just breathe. I don't see a problem, in an ideal world roots may be white to tan, but in real life, they often turn brown from being in the soil; it's natural & not an indicator of problems. Those roots are firm to your touch, are they not? They look OK from here, not rotting from what I can see. The time to be concerned is if the base of the plant is soft or mushy, or if the roots were dry, brittle cracking off in your hands (that would dead & could be trimmed & removed). OR the roots were soft & mushy, which would be rotting likely from overwatering. Pls plant in clay or plastic, small pot w/ drainage hole & use 1/2 C&S mix & 1/2 Perlite (equal parts). Then wait 2-3 days before watering. When you water, water the soil only, not the plant & try never to get water in the center of the plant.