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Kitchens Electrical Wiring DIY

110v leg off 220v

Garry Crabbs II

last year

I have built an island in the center of my kitchen. I installed a 220v cooktop.i would like to have a couple 110v outlets in the island as well.the 220v is 2 hot and a neutral.the 110v will just be for running the occasional can opener or food processor,real light duty stuff.anyone see a problem doing this?

Comments (9)

PRO
HALLETT & Co.
last year
Code will not allow it. Why not run a separate run for the outlets?
Charlie
last year
last modified: last year
Separate wire and small appliance circuit is a REQUIREMENT. And an electrician and permit.
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kensnh, really, if you think it's not safe, I won't do it. However, i do feel obliged to mention that eBay has nothing to do with this - I only referenced someone's EBay auction because the manufacturer's own website doesn't list the specifications and the guy selling the same thing on eBay did. But these devices are not devised by random charlatans on EBay, but rather (in this case) built and sold by Miele, a respected and esteemed appliance manufacturer who I assume wouldn't or couldn't sell unsafe merchandise. I wasn't actually planning to buy this on eBay, but rather directly from Miele or Bosch or their authorized retailers, and if need be have them drive out to my home and install it. The only thing different about my situation than that of a typical buyer is that instead of a 240V/30A outlet near the dryer, I have a 240V/40A outlet about 10 feet away. I thought, maybe, there would be some safe, legal way to use that to power a laundry appliance since it is currently unused. But if not, I can continue to use the more common 120V/15A washer I have now that plugs directly into the nearby outlet. It doesn't heat its own water and draws from the water heater tank, but I can continue to avoid using the washer and the shower at the same time. FWIW, I don't like using extension cords either. I'm very careful with the ones I do have - they're not dangling where they can get tripped on or squashed or have things fall on them. But I *do* tend to believe that if a respected major company sells something, it's probably safe. Not always, obviously.
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dennisgli
last year
How were you planning on doing this? I don't think you can install a sub-panel in an island?
Garry Crabbs II
Original Author
last year
Separate run is additional 100 ft of wire back to the main panel where I would have to install a new sub panel cause I am out of spaces in the main.running a jump wire or transformer at the 220 volt already at the island and all I need is 2 ft of wire a gang box,receptical and a few other nick nack items.saving a ton of money and time .that was the motivation for running a jump from an existing 220.
HU-867564120
last year
To repeat: Code will not allow it.
bakerstreet999
last year
last modified: last year
As stated by others, this would not be code-compliant in virtually any US location because NEC code has, for several versions now, required that any countertop (including island) circuits are supplied by one of two dedicated small appliance branch circuits (SABC). As far as whether you CAN do it - are you sure that the 220V run includes a neutral? Typically they do not, although it is possible that for a stove a neutral was run so that a lower voltage feature on the stove (e.g. clock) could be run off of one leg - but I'm speculating that that would ever be the case. Seems like it would be simpler to run everything in the stove off of 220V. The one scenario that comes to mind where 220V is run with a neutral is if it is a multi-wire branch circuit (MWBC). This is not an uncommon way to supply the two required SABC's (at least, here in Wisconsin, where those circuits are specifically exempt from the rquirement that they be arc fault protected). In a MWBC, a 220V line with the two hots and a neutral is run from the box, and then splits into two 110V circuits at the SABC outlets, both of them sharing the neutral. So if that is how your stove is run, then you likely can tap a MWBC off of it to supply those couple of 110V outlets. But that's some high-level wiring that should probably be left to an electrician, and (reiterating the point once again) it is not code-compliant.
kudzu9
last year
If you're out of space in the breaker box, install a duplex breaker and run a new wire so you can do it correctly. Just because you figured out another way to do it doesn't make it code-compliant.
elltwo
last year
Why not extend one of the two or more small appliance circuits that are already in the kitchen?
Garry Crabbs II
Original Author
last year
Ellotwo,I like your suggestion,most cost effective and easier suggestion so far

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