After looking up some pictures of various Elaeagnus I am certain that you are correct. Thanks!

Looks more like Epiphyllium oxypetalum to me. If it grows any long thing "stick-like" stems, then you can assume it's E. oxypetalum. R. elliptica doesn't seem to sprout new growth from the sides of leaves like E. oxypetalum... but more from the ends of the leaves/joints, like other Rhipsalis. If you look at the growth of this plant, it sprouts new growth from just about anywhere. The real test will be the flower. If they're large beautiful flowers, it's Epiphyllium. If it's small flowers, it's Rhipsalis. But I'd go with E. oxypetalum. Here is a link that might be useful:

Stinkbugs are a horrible problem here, but I've never had them on berries. In our yard, they prefer tomatoes. (Wouldn't you just know it?) Do they eat just any old tomato? No, no, no. Their favorite tomato is one of my favorite tomatoes--Black Cherry. It makes me wonder if they chose their "targets" by flavor because they tend to be worst on some of the plants with the absolute best-tasting fruit. Stinkbugs are hard to control. They pierce the fruit and suck out its juices and at the same time they inject a little "poison" (not deadly, just yucky tasting) that causes those little blotchy spots. I don't know how it affects the flavor of the berries, but it can make tomatoes taste sour---not so much if there's just one or two of those little spots, but if there are several of them. I do my best to handpick the stinkbugs and flick them into a container of soapy water where they then drown. They like to hide deep inside the plant foliage, but if you hit the plant with water from the hose they often will climb to the top of the plant to dry off and then you can handpick them. Some people spray their plants, fruit and all, with a non-toxic kaolin clay product called Surround, which apparently makes the fruits less attractive to the stink bugs. You just wash the clay off the fruit when you harvest it....it just leaves a dusty whitish film over any part of the plant with which is makes contact. Some people claim to have had some success in repelling the stink bugs by spraying their plants with a water and vanilla mixture. I've never tried it though. I cannot even imagine how much vanilla and how much time it would require to spray 140 tomato plants. (sigh) Some people have very good luck covering their plants with floating row covers early in the season before stinkbugs appear. Most people here consider their gardening season to be "over" when the stinkbugs arrive, but I battle them to the extent that I can. I don't know of any predator that targets them (although surely there must be one). My farmer friends who use chemical pesticides tell me that nothing works very well on them. One says liquid Sevin works somewhat to control them in his large vegatable garden, although he doesn't think it is extremely effective.....and he knows it kills off all his beneficial insects and bees, which is a real problem for him. I think I read somewhere that some people have had luck with a bio-insecticide called Spinosad but I haven't tried it on stinkbugs. I have used Spinosad as an organic fire ant control and it has been pretty effective (impressively so) on them. The spinosad I use for fire ant control is a granular product but the one you'd want for stinkbugs would be a liquid--you can get it in concentrate form or in a ready-to-use spray bottle. I don't know if this is any consolation, River, but in a "normal" year (if there is such a thing), I usually don't see stinkbugs here in large numbers until late July or early August. So, if your blackberries normally ripen earlier than that, you shouldn't have this problem every year. Unfortunately in this most bizarre year, the stinkbugs showed up in huge numbers in mid-May here. I have read similar reports from all across the nation and some people who have NEVER had stinkbugs in their gardens in relatively cooler parts of the country also have them in great abundance this year. It is my understanding that both sunflowers and millet are a great trap crop for stinkbugs, and I am thinking about preparing an area immediately adjacent to the garden this winter so I can plant those two trap crops next spring and see if they make a difference. And, even though I've had a moderate stinkbug problem some years, and no stinkbugs at all other years, many people have similar problems with and damage from the closely related leaf-footed bugs and blister beetles every year. Dawn

Josh - The plants I have under lights for the winter get fertilized each time I water with 1/4 tsp of FP 9-3-6/gallon of water. When I water, about 10-20% of the total amount of water I apply exits the pot. If your plants are getting natural light and you think they could do with more, you might try fertilizing at the strength I mentioned, then water twice so you're flushing the soil, then repeat.At these low doses, there isn't much concern about over-fertilizing unless the soil is VERY dry. I'm watering well before there are any indications of drought stress, and have seen 0 indication of plasmolysis in any of the plants. Keep in mind that plants make their own food - glucose. Fertilizers are the building blocks they use to grow and keep their systems orderly. Charles - There is a difference between air movement and a cold draft or a hot wind. Air movement upsets the boundary layer (of air) surrounding the leaf and increases transpiration. This means that more nutrient solution is moved through the nutrient stream - generally a good thing. Air movement can also have a significant impact on keeping pests and diseases in check, and it helps promote back-budding. On the other hand, if your plant's ability to move water to distal parts is limited by poor root function/health, air movement can be a negative insofar as the plant's appearance goes, because increasing water demands combined + an inability to efficiently move water to the plant's distal parts will produce more necrotic leaf margins or tips. I have 2 - 20" box fans (set to low speed) in my grow area + a 12" round fan blowing over a plastic cake pan cover ($1.50) that holds 2 gallons of water with humidifier wicks in it to increase humidity, which really decreases the humidifier's run time. Too, MG soil has water retention issues you need always consider because of how water retention impacts root health/function. How much/often you water is always a consideration when you're using a water-retentive medium. Al