You're more likely to have success with root cuttings on increasing photo-period, that is to say when days are getting longer instead of shorter. Increasing night length, which starts around Father's Day (actually at the summer solstice) causes growth regulators to signal the plant to stop extending (branches) and start storing energy i cambial tissues, so the cutting would be reluctant to push growth. You're also more apt to have success if part of the root you want to grow into a plant was growing exposed to sun and air movement. The reason is there may then already be differentiated buds waiting to emerge; whereas if you simply expose a large root, tissues may need to dedifferentiate into meristematic regions that can then redifferentiate into apices that will produce buds that develop into branches. If the roots are fine, smaller than 3/16" diameter, chances of success diminish. A short while back, I pruned a heavy root (1"+) off a F. salicifolia (narrow/willow-leaf ficus) that had interesting movement. It had laid on the cement in the sun for an hour while I worked on the tree before I decided it was interesting enough to start something from for a friend. That was in July. Nothing happened with the cutting, though it kept passing the 'nick the bark & look for green' test repeatedly, so I knew it was still viable. It wasn't until Jun of this year that it finally started pushing growth. Al

Californian: I doubt that copper sulfate will have much effect on fireblight, especially when applied in the dormant season. Streptomycin should be sprayed on early in spring, using fresh strep powder, about when the blossoms begin to open and again maybe a week to ten days later. Applying streptomycin in winter when the bacteria are inactive would be a waste of material and your time. The tree you have been trying to save is most likely a goner, and I would take it out. With the others, prevention is the answer, since there is no real cure once fireblight gets going in the growing season. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

I do. It is perfect for own root. It roots easily, too. Mine has done better than any of my other own roots. It stays a medium size and blooms well. Kathy

It seems the wrapping method is at its best when temps are more on the cool side and the cuttings can be potted out where they'll get filtered light and mild, say fifties to sixties temps while growing on. Once they are potted, they will need some light as the increase in temperature will stimulate them to form roots and grow. They'll need some for the green wood to photosynthesize food to support them. Is there anywhere outdoors where they can be put in semi shade, kept with a bit higher humidity and watered? You don't want them to fry, dry out or rot. I know, a delicate balancing act this time of year. I am not having difficulties getting them callus and root. It's aftercare that's more touchy now, because of the heat, wind, intense sun, extreme evaporation, etc. Many are drying out before they can support themselves. It wasn't an issue when the daytime temps were no higher than the mid seventies. As I've continually said, it's going to take some tweaking to make it fit everyone's situations. Kim