200 Year Old Farmhouse Renovation
3 years ago
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Help me select a rose for my 'old' farmhouse
Comments (17)You've told me so much and you know the things you need to know. Like ignore all the "fertilize with K and P annually". In Knoxville, at the University, Ione planted a tea noisette, Duchesse de Auerstadt, in river loam about 100 yards from the Tennessee River. (I grow a clone of that, several hundred feet higher and in tight red clay. You'd think they were different roses, but they-from the same supplier- are in different microclimates and soils.) You are in the heat 'island' that is the Nashville Basin. Your soils are self fertilizing but for the N. If I were you, I'd collect Tea Noisettes and make the most bodaceously beautiful rose fence in Tennessee. I might even be tempted to put a few Hybrid Perpetuals in for splashes of red-purple color. Foget the once bloomers. With your water conditions, with the nutrients that are in your river soils, the only thing you need to do is work to keep your pH in the zone where the K and P aren't tied up as salts and stay available to your roses' roots. That you don't have abundant cedar, BTW, tells me that you don't have a lot of limestone anywhere near the surface. In my fields I can almost tell you where there are subterranean limestone remnants under the soils. Even the cedar seeds don't sprout in my red clay. As for trees to tolerate in your fenceline: yes to dogwoods and redbuds- they aren't that bad. No to almost everything else. In your soils with ground water, you may find ten to fifteen years of vertical growth each year. This year we are sufferening the ones we didn't cut back last fall and that loved the inch a week of rain we had all of last year. Kill: all hackberries (they make good firewood). They are the host to wooly hackberry aphids and the aphid poop drops heavily and then gets a black fungus on it and the fungus doesn't wash off. Really ugly when it drops on roses, and everything else. When you get to Knoxville, let me know. I've probably got some suckers you can use. More later, Ann...See MoreOld Southern farmhouse; heat pump or gas?
Comments (3)Brickeyee, I have a hard time explaining the cold in AL. I've lived in North Dakota, Massachusetts, and some midwest states in between, and the South is nothing like that. But we are almost to the TN border and do get some chilly nights in the winter. Lows in the 20s and occasionally in the teens December through February are quite common, though snow is only seen maybe two or three times per year, rarely accumulating. But our house gets very uncomfortable if we aren't in the enclosed room(s) with the heater going. All things considered, natural gas and electric are pretty cheap down here. Propane is going up (and the range and hot water heater are gas), so that is leading us to think a gas furnace and a switch to NG would be a good thing over all. Energy Rater, thanks for the back up. As I mentioned, I feel pretty silly calling AL cold when I've lived in much more frigid conditions, but I'm not sure a heat pump would keep this drafty old house comfortable. I was also told the defrost cycle would use lots of electricity, and our bill is already $200+ these winter months for just lights, small appliances, and two-three electric heaters in enclosed rooms. Initially, we had much higher quotes for a gas furnace versus a heat pump for downstairs, but we have received one really good, highly efficient furnace quote. I think we are leaning toward that. We are also looking into a home energy audit because we could get some rebate money for improvements that we need anyway. The quote for the Carrier gas furnace that we like also includes duct mastic. Is there anything else we should ask for since the duct system is going in brand new?...See MoreFarm house renovation
Comments (9)this is what i read about balloon framing and insulation: Because of where you live in the cold Northeast - I'm just above you in NH - it would be a GRAVE mistake to add insulation in the wall cavity. The reason your house is still standing with no wood rot is simple. The balloon framing used in houses of that period - I lived in one back in Cincinnati, OH in the 1970's and 80's - allows water vapor that passes through the plaster and lath to be vented up into the attic of your home. Once up there, it usually was able to dissipate out gable vents or through the roofing. Many older homes had roofing material and roof sheathing that would allow lots of air to pass through them, but not rain water back into the attic. Balloon construction was probably invented to do this job as houses built without this open passageway probably developed rot in short time as the water vapor in the winter time would condense in the cavity and be unable to EVAPORATE quickly. Read this column I just posted about Vapor Barriers vs House Wraps to give you more background. If there was a way for you to install a vapor barrier to STOP the water vapor from getting into the wall cavity, then I'd say move ahead with the insulation. But I don't know of any TRUE paint-on or spray on vapor barrier that would provide enough of a seal. Im very certain I have balloon framing...See MoreRenovation of 1898 Midwest Farmhouse - Floors
Comments (2)Hi there! The original wood floors would have been made from whatever wood was locally available, so it depends on your area. Fir, pine, or oak would make sense for the Midwest. I'm a big advocate of restoring old houses as close as possible to their original state, but that's not always possible or cost-effective. Do you mind if it's real wood or engineered? If your goal is durability and good value, I would go for a 4" maple cappuccino finish like this (it will hide wear/tear and set off your white kitchen nicely) or 5" oak butternut finish like this throughout. While both woods are very hard, maple in general will show scuffs/dents more than oak simply due to the patterning structure of the wood. I would also advise that you look for 'cabin grade' hard wood from various manufacturers (both links above are cabin grade). This will be cheaper than standard simply because it's 'less pretty' according to show standards but you won't notice any difference. My specialty is in restoring and refinishing old houses, so don't hesitate to reach out with any additional questions :)...See MoreRelated Professionals
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