I went to Home Depot and looked at a new Lawn Boy to see what I think you were writing about. At Home Depot it looks like a metal cap with sides inside the bottom of the spark plug black rubber boot. I also looked in my boot with a magnifying glass and it looks like only a round flat piece of metal in the boot with no sides. So does this require a new boot or can this still be fixed somehow by a novice like me? Would a hose clamp on the outside of the boot work or would this be dangerous? The last time I mowed, I attached a big black metal binder clip from my local Staples store over the boot which worked and held on the boot but think a hose clamp would hold better. Any idea how much money this repair would be at a shop? Again, thanks for any help. Al

Ok, mine will turn but only about an inch, then return to the original position as soon as i let off the key. Bypassed the control module and i cant even get it to move at all with the key. But as soon as i connect the bypass wire, it does that same one inch turn and releases as soon as i disconnect the wire fuel and oil are good, will get spark tester tool later but any ideas until then?

No one even mentioned the word compression and it makes me wonder about you people If the engine turns over without a plug in, it's because there is little resistance to turning over in a well oiled engine. With the plugs in the pistons now must generate compression of the air fuel mixture and this takes much more force. The power supply may be adequate to turn the engine over without plugs, but it may not be adequate to turn the engine over with plugs in. MAKE SURE you jump start CORRECTLY, with very good contact on terminals(you must have the right voltage which takes any contact, but right amperage as well which takes sufficient contact to pass that much currently in a given time which is why battery terminals are the size they are and not tiny wire connections) The engine should easily enough turn over with a breaker bar and socket on the crank pully if there is an easy way to verify this(only rotate it forward) if it takes a lot of resistance the engine is gummed up or starved for oil(or sludged) and good luck at this point.

I too would hear clunks coming from the carb area on my 20hp Scotts (Briggs Intek motor) . Turns out the carb has some type of Solenoid on it ... if you get a close look at the bottom of the carb - you will see a wire going to it... What happened to the good ol simpler days? i suppose its there to stop the engine from flooding when its not running ? long story short - it was my solenoid which died on me ... Did you try jumping across the Solenoid - or the starter motor? its not clear to me what "leads" your speaking of (sorry). Another test for you... Put the key into a run position / put the choke on (if you need it to start your motor) , and then bypass your solenoid. If you get your motor running - your probably looking at defective solenoid... thats what I ended up doing before i swapped mine out for a new one. you said "darn thing quit running" I assume it has gas ... If you can spin the motor but can NOT get the motor started with the ignition in the run position - you might want to test if your getting spark at the plugs. good luck