Bob: the clear tubs actually magnify the sunlight and "cook" the soil, so never use clear in the sunlight unless you want to solarize the soil and kill anything in said soil. Regarding the PM -- like I mentioned before, PM with peas doesn't show up nearly as bad as it does like the very noticeable powdery covering like on squash. But with close inspection, one can see it. And the brownish leaves is an indicator. You may just have a case of too much heat, like others have mentioned. I just notice it in the general performance of the pea plat itself. When it starts to heat up to the 80's consistently, it's pretty close to pull them. It's just not worth trying to keep them going. I used to try starting them in Jan-Feb, but they would tucker out just as it started to warm up. Down here, I start them in early November. from Feb-Apr/May, I get awesome harvests. So much that I can freeze almost enough to carry me throughout the rest of the year. They're pretty cold hardy, so check with your local extension for planting dates. Aili: they'll produce as long as it doesn't get TOO warm. So, mulch, like slimy mentioned, always helps. Just keep harvesting though every 3-4 days. More harvesting, more flowers! Hard to say how much one plant produces, but 30 plants, under the right conditions(cool) will have you inundated. Kevin

Those plants are just starting to get their new leaves. This says they're alive and growing. It's this new growth that's important, not the old leaves. If you have the time and effort to spend, you can carefully rake off the old mulch and brown leaves, which can harbor fungus and disease. While you're doing this, you can remove any plants that are obviously dead. You should be ready to lay down new straw or other mulch in case of a late freeze, so you can use it to cover the plants. A freeze when the flowers are starting to open will ruin your crop. The important thing is to thin and clean out the bed this summer after they fruit, so you're not faced with this problem next spring.

Why spray the rhodies? Do you have any problems? The sprays are poisons and should only be used where needed and not used indiscriminately on everything. I never spray my rhodies. I let nature take its course. It usually solves most problems. I do remove diseased material. Often spraying for one problem will cause other problems. The total interaction needs to be known. The major toxicological concern from exposure to mancozeb is the hazard to the human thyroid from presence of ethylenethiourea (ETU), a contaminant, degradation product, and metabolite present in mancozeb and other EDC products. ETU is an acknowledged goitrogen, teratogen and oncogen. For many of us, this past winter our plants took a beating with the very unusual winters some of us had with warm weather followed by late freezes. They have what is more typical of drought damage but in this case was caused by the warm weather followed by late freezes. It causes Botryosphaeria dothidea which causes leaves to turn dull green and then brown and roll and droop. Cankers form on branches which may girdle the branch. This is the most common disease of rhododendrons in the landscape. A typical symptom of this fungal disease is scattered dying branches on an otherwise healthy plant. Leaves on infected stems turn brown, then droop and roll inward. These leaves often lay flat against the stem and will remain attached. The pathogen can infect all ages of stem tissue through wounds, pruning cuts, and leaf scars. Heat, drought stress, and winter injury can increase disease incidence. Cankers on branches can gradually grow through the wood until the stem becomes girdled. Diseased wood is reddish brown in appearance. Discolored wood viewed in longitudinal cross section often forms a wedge that points toward the center of the stem, and the pith may be darker brown than the surrounding wood. Sanitation and applying a fungicide such as metalaxyl (Subdue) after pruning my provide some control. Plants should be grown in partial shade, with mulch and kept well watered during dry periods. All dying branches should be promptly pruned out in dry weather and all discolored wood should be removed. Plants should also be protected from rough treatment during maintenance activities to prevent unnecessary wounds.

I don't think it is related to cold. Never have seen them freeze back to their roots here even in years when temps approach zonal minimums (0 F.). They do appreciate some shade though (winter and summer), somewhat shaded they will look much better and not nearly suffer as much in winter. But I think something else is going on with your plant. Can you post a picture? Good luck!