Dolichos lablab is most closely related to Vigna and Phaseolus and then Glycine (soybean) so they might be the best to examine for genetic relationships. Typically the 'wild-type' is dominant and mutants are recessive (but not always). Purple then would be expected to be dominant and white to be recessive. However, dominance/recessive relationships depend completely on how the phenotype (appearance) is measured and categorized. As an example, a cross of a purple with a white might produce coloured offspring. If we classify the purples as coloured and the whites as not coloured then coloured is dominant. But if we classify the purple parent by the wavelength of light it reflects, and so on then the 'colour' (wavelength) of the offspring might be intermediate between the two parents and the inheritance is co-dominant or additive, and so on. In soybean (Glycine) purple is dominant over white. There is a pink that is recessive to purple in soybean. In Phaseolus much work has been done on seedcoat colour but some work has been done on flower colour. Again purple flower colour is dominant to pink which is dominant to white in a series of alleles. However, in this case there are two genes involved P and V. P (purple) is dominant to p which is nearly white. In PP or Pp individuals V controls the colour such that V/- is purple, a particular V allele labelled lae creates pink flowers and v/v has white flowers. Bichemically, the coloured pigments would be anthocyanins and in white or near-whites the pigments would be flavonoids and related compounds from earlier in the biosynthetic pathway.

Grass seed needs to be in direct contact with the soil to germinate. it will not grow on decomposing moss. And you do NOT need to apply any moss killer to remove - it will rake up easily so why add more unnecessary chemicals when a little bit of elbow grease will do the trick. If you are thorough in your raking, you will remove 95% or more. The moss will regrow if the conditions it prefers are right, not because you may have left a few scraps in place!! The moss can be discarded or added to your compost pile if you absolutely need to recycle it. Having lived in western Washington all my life and with several decades as a consulting horticulturist under my belt, I will disagree with your contention that we need inground lawn sprinklers or air conditioning :-) That is not an urban legend but only the observation of someone who is used to these unnecessary devices!! There are only a few days each year that the summer temp exceeds 85F and while hotter than most PNW'ers prefer, it is very tolerable without AC. And we have virtually no summer humidity which makes it even more tolerable. Very few gardens here have inground sprinkler systems - they are just not needed and seldom programmed correctly if they are present. Most long time residents who are not lawn-obsessed will allow their lawn to go dormant in summer as it is inclined to do. It recovers/re-greens rapidly with even the odd summer rainstorm or very quickly in fall. And it conserves water to allow that to happen - even in the PNW, water is a finite commodity and we can have watering restrictions. I have never intentionally watered my lawn in all my years of gardening. It may receive a small amount of overspray when I water adjacent planting beds but that's it.

Sounds good to me! Will you then immediately do the load without the Boost Pac, or will you have to wait until more laundry accumulates? :) Again, THANK YOU for doing this. Quite scientific. Controlled. I know we're all anxious to (hopefully) confirm our hypothesis that these Boost Pacs really do work well. Also - I like that you are using a Persil ProCap for the detergent. I think it's important to use a good detergent and show much additional boost the pods give. If you used a BOL, of course the boosted load would look better.

I will monitor it over the next few weeks and send an update. ==>>> nothing will change in weeks ... we are talking tree time ... 5.. 10.. 20 years ... odds of it dying because of this.. are low to nil ... othe3r things may attack over the decades.. bugs.. disease.. rot ... etc ... but again.. nothing will happen in weeks ... in my world.. 90 bucks is what i would pay for the replacement.. not really to get an opinion about this thing .... of course that leaves out removal ... personally.. on my 5 acres.. if this were out back.. i could watch what happens for ever ... if it were somewhere where i would be forced to look at it.. day after day.. after day ... it would be gone.. fast ... the flip side of that coin is ... obtaining knowledge ... and watching this thing for 5 years or so ... would give you a lot of new learning ... it would be a whole other ball of wax.. if it was a threat to anything.. like you or the house.. etc ... but this little thing isnt doing that to anything... as far as i can tell ... ken