I have a very similar problem with a Briggs & Stratton 17 HP engine. I have put in a new carb overhaul kit. (The float was gunked up pretty bad, but now looks new, checked for leak or holes in it, found no indication that float is damaged.) Put carb back on engine. Engine runs, but poorly. It sounds likes it chugging, noticing black smoke out of exhaust especially at Idle. One thing I didn't notice in all the above posts. Is the adjustment needle on the carb an IDLE adjustment needle or a main needle? What is the initial setting? The engine does have spark. Although one spark plug shows more of an orange spark rather than blue. Both plugs were damp from unburned fuel when I removed them. (They are old plugs.) Engine running: It'll sit and run. I can drive the tractor. However when I slowly engage the mower blades (blades are new, bearings are good, belt is new) the engine dies, unless I quickly disengage the blades and apply full choke. Heading out to store to get new spark plugs this morning. I've already poured quite a bit of money in this beast. I may be the one who has a rolling ball of fire!

It's been a long time since I thought about this. I was having an issue recently that I think was probably just water in an igniter (overflow or from a pot put back on the stove to dry after cleaning). I'd been meaning to check back and remind myself what I did and maybe update if I change something out. I did notice that the screws attaching the igniters were pretty corroded. That may have been a bad material choice on my part. My quick and dirty troubleshooting would be to trade igniters from a working burner to a nonworking burner to decide between module and igniter. If the same burner still doesn't work, you might also check out the wiring to see if it's been pinched or otherwise has a problem. That's my mute-the-work-conference-call-and-type-real-quick response.

joed, he said that the service receptacle (and the receptacle for the power amp) are not polarized and not grounded. So you are saying the bright terminal and brass terminal may not mean white and black as it does today? I'm thinking the fact that these receptacles are not polarized means he should be able to switch the black and white wires from the line cord without causing any problems?

Suggesting: (This is likely considered to be an internal item on an appliance in country of origin and many other places, so colour coding would be at the maker's discretion and not follow that of any electrical building codes.) The wire close to the YAM label seems to be the aerial for the receiver. The top right black wire and the bottom right white wire (listed as "Blue" on the case) presumably connect to two sides of the 110v load "X". Black is likely not the hot switched side but it would be prudent to prove that with a multimeter first before installing the module on anything. Can't make out the notation for the red wire but it presume it is now 110v hot line in for the input power that previously went directly to the load. You can see the three dots between "Red" and the 110v label seem to be indicating that something to interrupt power before it reaches the module is needed there as a safety item. Maybe an in line fuse? Or maybe the above theory about input power is wrong. There is also a possibility that the input power comes in instead on the left side below the aerial connection location where those three circles are indicated. Any holes for wires there? Bit of a puzzle without more side and inside pictures. What is written above the two dots between "Red" and the 110V label ?