Is this wall load bearing and can I remove these studs?
Danielle S
11 months ago
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Danielle S
11 months agoRelated Discussions
ducting range hood inside a non-load bearing stud wall
Comments (18)"Have you thought of changing the wall studs to 2x6" rather than 2x4"?" I don't wish to destroy the wall on the far side. I have a large map wallpapered to the other side. I could build out with a false wall for some additional distance, but I don't see that as necessary since I can do at least 3-1/2"x14" (almost equivalent to a 8" round duct). Plus, I found a standard "Straight Register Boot" to transition to 8" diameter. I believe 3-1/2x14" equates to about .05 friction loss for five feet). I just don't know what 2200-2500 FPM will equate to in sound level at the hood. I foresee cutting a 4x15 opening (or bigger), at the back of the hood. I am re-reading rjpjnk's post and I remind you I only have five straight feet till it feeds straight into the fan venturi. I found this is an engineering handbook: Duct velocity should be between 1500 and 4000 FPM  Hood velocities (not less than 50 FPM over face area between hood and cooking surface)  Wall Type - 80 CFM/ft2  Island Type - 125 CFM/ft2  Extend hood beyond cook surface 0.4 x distance between hood and cooking surface Filters  Select ï¬lter velocity between 100 - 400 FPM  Determine number of ï¬lters required from a manufacturerÂs data (usually 2 CFM exhaust for each sq. in. of ï¬lter area maximum)  Install filters at 45 - 60°to horizontal, never horizontal Using this as a guide I think an average 400 CFM for general-purpose venting @ 1500 FPM means that I am well covered with a variable speed 1000 CFM external fan and 8" duct area. I'm guessing that at 1500 FPM it will be pretty quiet. The old Vent-a-Hood units are supposed to deliver 300 CFM each and I usually only use one. They are super noisy at near my ear level and 18 inches away. The air passes through a 3-1/2" x 4-1/2" rectangular opening! That's small and seems to equate to almost 3000 FPM! I guess it's no wonder they're so noisy... Am I missing anything? Bad calculations or asumptions?...See Moreload bearing wall removal
Comments (7)Given the context of the question, I'll expand a little on my answer above. I assume the question is not knowing if you have one, but rather determining which ones they are. External walls are nearly always load bearing, as they take the load of the external wall of the story above or the roof. Joists usually run between two load-bearing walls; floorboards are laid perpendicular to the joists. Therefore a wall that is parallel to the floorboards is more likely to be load-bearing than one that is perpendicular to them. However, trimmer joists might be used for stairwell openings for example and these might not be immediately apparent without looking at the full length of the wall. An internal wall that continues up through the next floor is bearing the load of the wall above. Though if the upper floor is a stud wall, the load will be less. Masonry walls are more likely to be load-bearing than stud walls, but that is definitely not a hard and fast rule. Modern roofs are generally supported by the external walls only, but that is not always the case in older houses. You'd need to check the rafters in the attic to see is anything is resting on an internal wall. Where a house has been extended, an internal wall that used to be the external wall might still be load bearing. That is the case in our house as I can see the attic is bricked up where the house used to end. There are probably a 101 other things to look for. And then call a structural engineer....See MoreRemoving L shaped load bearing wall
Comments (18)If I were to take a swag at the "what would it take" question, I'd guess that you'd need to run full-length joists (rafters) along these 2 planes (yellow highlight). They would need to span from outside wall to outside wall. The process of removing existing and installing new isn't rocket science, but it is painstaking. Support roof on either side of the LB wall with temporary stud walls 2. Carefully cut out existing joist (remove existing joist hangers, drop or cut rafter out) Install new, full-length joist (make sure you have it engineered for the needed load). 4. Re-attach rafters to the joist with joist hangers. 5. Remove temporary wall We DIY-ed something similar in the 2nd floor ceiling of our last house with a flush laminate beam. The trickiest part might be that the roof sheathing is likely nailed into the joist. You can cut the nails out with a sawzall, but you won't be able to nail into the new one unless you are re-roofing....See MoreNeed to be sure I'm not removing load bearing studs. Plz help!
Comments (6)yes but I still need to create space for a new heater. This one is only 16 inches in diameter. Most water heaters I can get at home depot or Rona are minimum 24 inches in diameter. Please see the picture below. The previous house owner did this to make enough space on the top unit....See Moremillworkman
11 months agoDanielle S
11 months agocat_ky
11 months agoSBDRH
11 months agokudzu9
11 months agoworthy
11 months agoMark Bischak, Architect
11 months agores2architect
11 months agolast modified: 11 months agoK H
11 months agolast modified: 11 months agoDebbi Washburn
11 months agoJarret Yoshida Design
11 months agoMark Bischak, Architect
11 months ago
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