There is also information available in the National Parks Service Preservation Briefs about windows and many other aspects of preservation. I never discouraged anyone from changing their windows if there are no guidelines in their district for doing that. Actually I think lots of good information has been provided here by homeowners who are not working in the preservation business and speak from personal experience in either keeping or replacing windows. My frustration comes from people who buy homes in our historic district because they love the charm the guidelines have maintained and then decide they need to change protected aspects. No one has forced them to choose to live here. Appropriate energy efficient windows are not inexpensive. Anyone living here may choose to have those windows. Most requests here are for inappropriate windows and cost is the argument given. Shortsightedness at the time of purchase is not a justification here. We all "LIVE" in our homes and I would like to belie the insinuation that those of us who choose to maintain the architecture, including windows, are living in a "museum". That may be your perspective, but it is not my experience. Oberon works in the window industry. He provides lots of useful information and his opinion is valued. Many of us who choose to practice preservation are responding from personal experience and the outcomes we have had. In my neighborhood, there are guidelines for preservation and it has been proven to increase property values in this historic district. There are larger studies with similar quantified results. Most homes are under contract in less than two weeks. Therefore, it seems Oberon and I each have positve financial reinforcment for our opinions. I will not deny that my decisions also have an aesthetic factor. For those of you expressing concern for the environment I need you to know that by living in town and being able to walk to most destinations means I use less than one tank of gas a month. I also do not have air conditioning. I open my energy inefficient windows when it is warm. Imagine how much energy that would conserve if everyone did that. My point is moot for many because it is not realistic that the majority of people can, or are willing, to do that. I have noticed that brownouts and blackouts occur more during hot summer months than at any other time of the year. Is air conditioning and that comfort level also a drain on power? I don't have figures for how many less power plants the elimination of air conditining would result in. But, brownouts would seem to suggest use during hot weather does strain those resources. If we are truly concerned about energy consumption we should all get new windows and eliminate, or restict, air conditioning. There will always be some compromise. Comfort level is very individual. Windows are only one source of lead paint in older homes. I'm sure I'll be corrected, but the greatest issue with lead and windows is in the areas where there is any rubbing that could produce dust from the paint. Flaking paint on any surface should be a concern and abated or encapsulated especially if you have, or plan to have, children. If lead paint is the only concern with windows, the rub areas can be stripped and therefore eliminate the dust caused by the friction of opening and closing windows. Or, new tracks can be installed and the weight pockets can be insulated at the same time. Booksat makes a good point in taking into consideration many energy consumption aspects of older homes. Energy audits have been suggested a number of times on this forum. Windows are one aspect of loss and there are many ways to increase R-values in homes and windows. Window Guy is also in the window industry. He is sensitive to the window needs of historic districts and energy efficiency. I hope he will join this discussion to explain that you can maintain both aspects. Solutions may require compromise, but they should not be viewed at an either/or decision based on emotion. Also, energy conservation is multifaceted in older homes and in general consumption practices. If you are truly concerned about energy please look at all aspects of personal consumption. I agree that this is a sometimes emotional discussion. People on this forum will tend to lean toward conservation. Many would not have purchased older homes or participate on this forum if they did not like the qualities those homes possess. You will find lots of information about replacement windows on the Window Forum. Oberon an others involved in the window industry also offer their advice about new windows on that forum. We all have our passions.

I opened up the sash balance mechanism by grinding the staked keepers that hold the cover in place. Then inserting a putty knife into the housing (had to bend the end cover up for access) and over the spools (to protect them), then a flat screwdriver on top of that knife and turning it to pry the cover free. Not much pressure is required, if you have ground enough of the staking away. I was then able to replace the broken cord with some nylon masons line. I wound the new line around the drum and used it to rewind the spring, repeating until it looked like the other one that was not broken. I then used a small c-clamp to keep it wound and proceeded to place the correct number of wraps of lines on the drum to duplicate the unbroken one (total of 3 ½ turns). Then threaded the line out through the hole in the housing and through the plastic pellet and tied a big knot in it. Then released the c-clamp, while holding the spool with my thumb, and slowly allowing the tension to pull the plastic pellet into place against the housing hole. (I wore work gloves during the rewinding operation so I could safely hold the spool with my thumb when needing to do subsequent rewinding on it. From past experience replacing tape measure tapes, I was careful to watch for and avoid the spring going ballistic on me. It never really threatened to though.) Then I replaced the cover so that the ground away posts were in the opening where they belonged and taped the cover on with USPS packaging tape. :) The cover isn't in danger of coming off since it's held in compression when in the installed position. I wish I had been able to find some heavier line but I think the masons line will likely last well enough. It's rated at 155-pound test. If it doesn't, there is a heavier masons line available that is 216-pound test that I'll replace it with. A tip getting that left side track back into place without breaking it or hurting yourself is to slather some liquid dish soap onto the window stud. It slid right into place easily after I resorted to that method. It also helps to file the sharp end of the spline on the back of the track so it doesn't gouge into the stud. It has taken me nearly as long to post this than to replace the broken sash cord line. I hope it helps someone like me who couldn't find any info on doing this and had to stumble through it. I like fixing things rather than tossing them, especially when it only needs a piece of string replaced. YMMV

Your in the right direction. Marvin Ultimate's and Kolbe Sterling would be my recommendations as a No. 1 & 1A, followed by Loewen and then Eagle a distant 3rd in my honest opinion. These are assuming you want Aluminum Clad Exterior and Wood Interior. This post was edited by millworkman on Mon, Jun 3, 13 at 15:32

I'm glad you two ladies know what I'm talking about. I felt like an idiot just asking the question thinking that the answer was probably going to be obvious. I'm not home now to do any measurements, but when I previously measured the depth at the top, not taking into account anything about the bottom sash, I was a little over 2", so I think I have the depth at the top, but then the blinds would fall and hit the top of the bottom sash and just sit there. annz - My home was just built, May 2007 we moved in. We have the Marvin Ultimate Clad Double Hung Windows and they are wood inside, so I don't recall any metal frame around them. When I get home I'll measure that narrowest point, but just from memory I think it's less than 1/4". I have three single windows that were built together as one unit. I have thought about the 1" wood blinds, I don't like the look as much, but I don't those would work if the narrowest point is less than 1/4", would they? I appreciate all of the help.