Thanks, dim4fun and lighting ken, for your advice. I truly have been hanging out in lighting stores and online in order to learn as much as possible about this subject. I feel that I need some information in advance of approaching the lighting designers, in order to be able to analyze and judge what I'm going to be told. Dim4fun, we've put as much under-cabinet and over-cabinet fluorescent lighting into this kitchen as we can fit; now we've got to use our remaining 50% wattage as efficiently as possible to illuminate the island. I believe that the sunroom portion of the room, which is well outside the work core, will qualify as an "other" space, so that the dimming option for incandescent lighting will apply there. Ken, I've seen pictures of the systems you describe, where the entire track is suspended, as well as systems where it is the track heads that are on stems of different lengths. Thanks again!

If your lamp is tripping the circuit breaker then it's quite likely that it's miswired or damaged. However I don't quite understand how you could have bared wires while changing the bulb. If you took it all apart, the trouble spot could be almost anywere. In that case you'll probably have to take it all apart again, and this time (1) make sure it's wired exactly as it was before; and (2)make absolutely sure that no bare wire is showing anywhere. Make your wire-to-wire connections using small wirenuts. Ask the hardware store counterman for help with getting the right size - I hope you have a good hardware store nearby. Again make sure no bare wire is showing when you've screwed the wirenut on. Wires placed under screw heads, as on lamp sockets, should wrap clockwise. This way, when you tighten the screw, the wire is pulled in toward the center of the screw, rather than being pushed out. Also, after you strip off the insulation from stranded wires, grab the end of the little wires and twist them all together counter clockwise. This twist will minimize fraying when you tighten the socket screws. Here's a little more info. If you took the lamp all apart and didn't make drawings of how it was wired, you may have big trouble getting it together right. Might have to find a friendly electrician to help.

Chispa, I did not realize your inventory was so low. Here, it would just be physically impossible to be at every showing. Very high end listings, yes, but those types of homes do not get a ton of showings. I do have clients ask me if they can use the rest room. I see no reason why not, unless the water has been turned off, which I check before they go. Most of my buyer clients are from the North East. Usually in the middle to upper price range. I have never caught any one of them acting out of line when it concerns others property. I did open up the door to one home which had just installed brand new white carpet in the Family room. The 7 year old son bolted into the home and tracked the infamous Carolina red clay all over the carpet. I told the parents that I would take care of it. I rented a steam cleaner the next day and cleaned it up. So, accidents do happen, but the responsible people need to stand up and take responsibility.

That tiny fixture is not going to give you enough light. Is it a full bathroom or just a WC and sink? The problem with a single fixture is that it will become a glare bomb if it provides enough light. What about a semi-flush mount with a drum shade? Paint the ceiling white and then it will bounce some light off the ceiling. This one has an adjustable stem, I believe, so you could play with the height. Or you could try something light this, but I fear you'd get a lot of pattern/ shadow. This one is Ikea. I also have an illuminated mirror from SimpleHuman that just needs to be recharged once in a while. It's extremely helpful for getting light right where you need it. And yes, that paint color is absolutely sucking away any light that you do have, so changing that will help. Good luck! It's a pretty space. I think I have the same faucet!!