The bottom line is it is your house and you have to like the bathroom particularly if it is your only one. Personally, I think the two color combos really clash and I would do something about it!! It is easy for everyone to say how classic it is and how you must keep it but unless you live with that era fixtures you don't know what a pain in the neck it can be. The tub is usually pretty worn, the floor tile looks a bit worn in your picture and I bet the doors and drawers are a nightmare in the vanity with a lot of water damage under the sink. I just finished renovating my original everything 1959 ranch. I gutted the main bath, and I kept the original powder room. I included a link to my thread, photos of my original and new bath are included and way down in my thread is a link to photos of my green powder room. I have no regrets, I wanted a tub that was deep enough for me to soak in, I wanted floor and wall tile and grout that looked and felt clean all the time, I wanted a vanity that was taller so I didn't have to bend down so far to use the sink, I wanted a comfort height toilet and I wanted mirrors without 50 years of moisture and water damage to the edges. I wanted the low soffits over the tub and sinks out of there to open up the whole room. I kept my original green fixtures and tiles in my powder room and my new Toto toilet flushes a lot better than my big green monster!! It never catches and runs so you have to jiggle the handle and everything always goes down!! Not so with the big green monster, I steer people towards the new bath who have lots of business to attend to!!! Your house, your heart, your living style, so do what works for you. But if you pull out the fixtures, look at selling them. I have had more than one contractor in my house that has told me when I renovate the green bathroom they want the fixtures!! I have told them all that I am keeping them! Here is a link that might be useful: My baths

You have a BIG problem with the width of the room - 84" is just not enough to have a door into the room and fixtures down both 96" walls. To move around comfortably - get out of tub or shower, stand up from the toilet, turn around from the sink - you really need to have at least 32 -36". (Realistically, not a code bare minimum which makes you feel like you are trapped in the space) 32" door way with basic trim will take up 36-37". That only leaves you with 47 inches to play with (assuming you are up for moving the door AND window.) The narrowest tub will be about 30". Now you only 17" on the opposite wall from door to wall for sink & toilet. You might sneak a narrow sink vanity in but not the standard depth 22 " and a 17" is very very iffy -doubt you would find one. Toilets come out from the wall 28". Than that would only leave 26" to the tub or shower. Impossible. Can NOT be done. Getting a 36 x 36 shower in there is impossible. That 84" wall - 37" door &trim = 47" left - 36" shower = 11 inches left = NO sink and NO toilet (they would be opposite the shower & tub) BTW 36" is the interior size on a shower. You might still have to allow for the framing on the shower side next to the tub - easily cost you 4 1/2".....a 55" tub? Definitely hard to find. Even if you come down a 96" wall with a shower and short tub and then across the 84" wall (with window) with the end of the tub, the toilet and sink, you still DO NOT have enough space. 84" - 30" tub end = 54" - 30" toilet (that is what is allowed from side to side so there is shoulder room - 24 inches. 24" is not enough to get into the sink without more shoulder space. Way way cramped. Going tub 30" then 24" sink (pedestal?) and then 30" for toilet space.......possible but that means moving the window somewhere else. You can not fit all that stuff in that room - it is impossible. To do what you want (36" x 36 shower, 5' tub, vanity & toilet on opposite wall) you would need a room that is minimum 95" -96" wide (not 84) and 101 1/2" (not 96) Now there might be way....and triple the cost because of semi-custom or specialty stuff (1) Move the door so from one 96" wall it is 28" to the door and from the other 96" wall it is 19" to the door (2) Move the window (do not put it in a shower - been there dealt with that and all the tile, mortar and caulking in the world won't keep water from leaking into the wall and window trim.) The window will end up over the end of the tub. (3) On the 96" wall that is 28" from the doorway it goes down the side from the door wall like this: 30" for toilet 66" long soaking tub (faucets on tub rim or wall) Don't waste space with a drop in that needs tile around its top edges - go with one that is stand-alone (double-ended clawfootish type maybe http://www.signaturehardware.com/67-aiden-cast-iron-dual-tub-on-beveled-plinth.html If you really want to go wild, Kohler makes whirlpool tubs that are 60x30 to 60 x 32 to 66x 32 http://www.us.kohler.com/us/browse/bathroom-bathing/_/N-255vZ4rZ4sZ5hZ5iZ1z141pw Some are apron front and others are drop in but you just frame under the lip and don't lose any space with tiling around the tub edges. (4) on the 96" wall that is 19" from the doorway it goes down the side from the door like this * 60" long 18" -19" deep vanity (yeah they make them - here is an example http://www.signaturehardware.com/bathroom/bathroom-vanities/59-dumont-double-basin-vanity-cabinet-wenge.html That is a double basin. They are called "Narrow vanities" That leaves 36" on that wall down to the 84" far wall. From the corner of that 96" wall and 84" back wall there is 51-52 inches to the tub across the 4" outside back wall * Here is where the custom built shower goes. It will 36 x 50/51 if you glass it in or 36 x 47 1/2 if the end next to the tub needs a supporting wall OR the standard 36x4 shower Now 36 x 50-52 is not standard. If you go to a standard 36 x48 tile ready base, you can get a standard 36 x 48 glass enclosure. Here is the base pan that you then tile http://www.tileredi.com/single-curb-shower-pan-with-center-drain-36x48-p3648cpvc and here is the enclosure http://www.build.com/vigo-vg605148/s741109?uid=1350617&gclid=COWgxsu5hcwCFYM2aQodATkBPQ&source=gg-gba-pla_1350617____49842552319&s_kwcid=AL!4215!3!49842552319!!!g!79246577688! (Plenty of room to get in the shower is 48" you vanity is 18 -19 and the shower door on the far left is 22 7/8. Vanity will not be in the way of the door opening. The shower 36 x 50-52 can have a door of 30 -32" but that means custom. ) Going with the standard 36 x48 leaves up to 36 inches to do a drop in tub and have a bit of tile show around it on top If you don't want the glass - way much windex - you could use the shower curtain ring like on clawfoot tubs that mounts on the long side of the tub. Maybe this kind of thing? http://www.signaturehardware.com/bathroom/shower/clawfoot-tub-shower-enclosures/side-mount-add-a-shower-kit-with-hand-shower-and-ring.html or this one http://www.signaturebath.com/shower-rods/122x-corner-shower-rods.html which - per its specs - can be cut down so it will be 36 x 48 Tileredi makes shower bases for all ready for tiling. Most big box stores have them. Another brand is KBRS - and while they have standard sizes, they will custom make them if you need something odd. (Very nice people to work with) This is way more work - moving a door and an exterior window but you get * 66" soaking tub or whirlpool * 36 x 50-52 " shower or 36 x 48 shower * 60" double vanity With all those specialty things, if you can steal 13" from a room parallel to the 96" walls, you would save money and be able to fit the 36 shower followed by 55" clawfootish type on one side and a 66" vanity on the other with the toilet at the end. Might be a lot cheaper as you could use standard off the shelf stuff instead of specialty things if you could move the wall if you can steal the space. You would only have to move the door and not the window.

Thanks Bill! After a day or more the color does look a litle darker. Looks better than what is on there. Now here it comes, not sure why I am surprised. I kept saying that the caulk (& the grout that cracked) looked really sloppy to me, not professional. Now, I think maybe it was done that way on purpose??? My bf took out the caulk today & found grout (imagaine that, guess they didn't bother to take out all the grout)so he took out that & then he recaulked with the new color. When I looked at it tonight, you would not believe how uneven the tiles are & one is right up to the wall! NOW I know why he caulked all over the place.....To make it look like there really was a space/joint there. I cannot believe these people! And, he never had any intention of calling the plumber back to pull the radiator. I honestly don't even care. I think I will get my BF to put more caulk around ?? You would not believe how uneven this job is! (then again, yes you would) Is this going to cause alot of problems as in everything cracking later on???? I cannot afford to have someone come in & redo this entire mess...........

This is interesting to me because in my former and beloved house, the last thing I did was redo the bathroom. We just agonized and agonized over what to do, how to make it fit the style of the home and yet not cost an arm and a leg. Nothing great would have been lost if we had gutted the whole thing! Boy was it hard to find "period" tiles, particularly something affordable. The tub was an odd size, very difficult to find a replacement that would fit in the room. Just doing a shower would have probably been best, but I wanted a tub and that was the only bathroom space for a tub. My house was built in 1929 and it was a low-end row house. The tub was all that was left, although I know that underneath the beadboard wainscoting was probably the original ceramic tile. The house had a terrible update of a plastic tub surround and plumbing work-around to install a shower. The original bathtubs had no showers, because the half tub just was not designed to have a shower or shower curtain around it. Here was our dilemma, Every plumber and contractor we talked to said just tear the whole thing out and replumb the tub so the shower was against a real wall, like on the other side where the entrance door was. But we didn't want to spend that kind of money, so we tried to go with the original logic, somewhat. The fact that my SO and I are still together after that whole fiasco is some kind of miracle! But did order some nice repro shower fixtures that I found FINALLY after searching and searching. Plumbing it was a PITA, but the hardest thing was figuring out a tile pattern design that I liked and could afford. In the end, I didn't like it, but SO (who did all the installation) said that was all I was getting of the little colored tiles! We also had to have the tub reglazed. This was what was underneath the surround. Really high quality ceramic tiles by today's standards, and not terribly ugly, but ruined. SO used up one whole diamond bit just sawing it out tiny piece by piece, including the plaster and lathe behind it. Not sure if it was worth it in the end. It was less expensive than a total overhaul, but we weren't saving anything that unique or valuable at that point. The shower support had to be bent because the side of the tub was angled. The original tub didn't have a shower so it wasn't an issue. We figured the bend was better than trying to further jimmy-rig additional plumbing fixtures on the outside of the tub, since it wasn't set up for that either. It wasn't clawfoot tub, it was just rounded and sat flat on the floor. Probably would have been best to just tear it all out, but we wanted something minimally invasive to our lives. But tearing out all that ceramic tile sure was dusty! Oh, I forgot the best part, the nooks! Those were the absolute worst geometry problem ever, due to having to be where the studs would allow. This photo is pre tub caulking.