Scotty66 - "Dirt" and "soil" are typically used interchangeably. Soil does have an actual definition and an entire science behind it, although I am not all that knowledgeable on the subject, as I mentioned in my first post. But I do know that compost and soil are NOT the same thing, and compost is not the same thing as a mixture of peat moss, coir, and perlite or vermiculite, as another person suggested. Compost (if it's purely compost from kitchen and yard waste) lacks the minerals found in both natural soil AND potting soil. It breaks down to one important element of soil, humus. I didn't really think that things simply *can't* grow in compost only... if that were the case, weeds would never grow on the pile, and I often see that when people have piles they just allow to sit. But, based on what I have read, it's not generally an optimal growing medium. I can grow certain plants in a glass of water, but that doesn't mean that's the optimal medium for their growth. I also don't think that an unamended bale of straw is the best medium for long-term growth of plants. It's definitely not "dirt" even if you can grow in it. Interesting experiment JH, to prove that things can grow well! I do wonder whether there is a difference between growing solely in compost in a closed container, and growing solely in compost which is sitting on natural soil or crushed rocks, or next to such a surface (to allow for adequate drainage.) Jon's experiment aside, a raised bed filled with compost but open to the ground is different from planting in only compost. If I had huge amounts of compost and didn't want to spend money to purchase additional soil, then I would probably try to plant in only the compost. But, since that is not the case, I prefer to add soil. In the case of someone wanting to compost in the raised beds... adding soil or some amendments will likely be a necessity, if for no other reason that that compost piles shrink dramatically and it will be difficult to make enough compost in the beds to fill the beds by spring.

Well I was there. Had a great time. Bought too many lovely plants. So now I will bw finding a place for all my beauties this week.

I believe I am the one who stated "compost tea." ... but I do not have a "WF." Rather, I have several barrels that are watered by gutter rain and fed with kitchen and garden scraps, as well as chicken poo. At the bottom of the barrel there are several spouts that feed into holding containers. The water that drains through to the holding tank is what I refer to as "compost tea." I use this directly on plants without diluting, and have had only marvelous results. As for the smaller tubs of concentrated redwigglers -- I use the large Wal-Mart totes that held items sent to the thrift store. Stacking two, three, four, or more depending on the amount of worms and accumulated castings. On the very bottom is a solid tote with holes in the lid which holds anything that drains through the top bins. I equipped the bottom bin with old spouts from large detergent containers to dispense the liquid as needed. This liquid...I have no name for it. It is sometimes there, sometimes not, and sometimes I drain water all of the way through to have a bit of concentrated liquid. The concentrated liquid I use on my open-air compost piles or throw in the Compost Tumbler to heat up the compost. But if you have an indoor worm bin, which I believe a "WF" is...I wouldn't want water on the bottom. When my indoor worms (meals and supers) get too wet I think I am seeing spots...then I realize fruit flies are multiplying like crazy. Then it's off to the big-box for some apple cider vinegar and some Damp-Rid. :)

Mike, much of the nutritional value comes from the microorganisms growing on the organic material. The tea making process washes away many of those microbes, but not all. If you throw that material back into an active worm bin, I'm sure the microbes will quickly grow and the worms will be attracted to ingest the particles again. Andrew