My first year I started with the 2', 2 tube T-12 shop light. It works great for about ten 2"x2" pots. as my seeds started to germinate and grow I found I needed more light and more space. I bought some $6.00 clamp-type work lights at the hardware store and put $6.00, 42 watt CFL bulbs in them. They work great, are safe, are relatively inexpensive, require no special wiring or special ballast and they clamp well on flat surfaces that are about as thick as a shelf. The Daylight and Natural light you ask about emit a bluish color fluorescent light and the warm light is more reddish/orange/yellow.(remember Roy G. Biv) Plants utilize different wavelengths at different stages of life. To be sure look at the Kelvin rating on the package. For seedlings and early development you want blueish light which is approximately at the 6000 Kelvin range. For later plant development during the fruiting or flowering stage you want a Kelvin rating around approximately 2000 Kelvin which is more toward the red end of the spectrum. Plants could probably live with either but they use the light more efficiently as described. remember to keep the plants as close to the light as possible to prevent the stems from stretching.

Yes - those are not oak and possibly not even solid wood - they may have a veneer so don't sand too hard. The Zinsser products actually say no sanding is necessary, and I did not on my laundry room cabinets as there was very little gloss to start with. The primers do need time to cure - you can still paint over them, but handle the doors carefully for about a week. Do remove the doors and all hardware before painting. Sometimes the drawer fronts are removable from the drawer box. Have a good area to paint. Cabinet Coat is the top coat I believe - the Zinsser is the primer. Zinser 123 is latex so water clean up. The BIN is I think mineral spirits clean up. It is great for really glossy surfaces, but you may be able to get away with the 123 for easier clean up. I've been perfectly happy with the 123. I have not used the Cabinet Coat. I use a latex acrylic enamel recommended by my local paint store. Get brushes that are appropriate for the paint. I recommend that you take a cabinet door or drawer down to your local reputable paint store and have them help you gather the products. They may have different top coats - most of the name brand paints now have a cabinet paint. If it is a good brand, it should do fine.

I know this is an old thread but... I started researching paint removal from stucco after buying our house in 2013. It has two layers of paint- the most recent is a faded cheap Barney purple acrylic and the first is a presumably oil based light gray. I too wish we could turn back time and stop both paint jobs before they happened. Especially the first, which was sprayed on by a less-than-competent painter who painted the slate roof along with the dormer's stucco. He then came back and painted over his mess with a 'slate gray' color- and you can imagine what our roof looks now... I still have a purple house but I have gone down many avenues in search for a solution. There are commercially available paint strippers that will do exactly what you need but they become incredibly expensive when you start looking at the amount needed to do an entire house. Dumond makes several lines of strippers for various surfaces and paint types. More prevalent now are the soy and citrus based strippers that are 'safer' but require multiple applications if there are multiple layers of paint. The good news is that there are more and more contractors specializing in large scale paint removal as more attention is being paid to the importance of restoration/preservation but also with the rise in repurposing industrial buildings throughout various urban areas for housing etc. I was given a quote by a company who sounded knowledgeable and experienced enough to do the job, but the price was simply too high for the house. Sand/media blasting is an option but as noted is a huge cost and mess. I went as far as to make my own alkaline based stripper and wasted a lot of time testing recipes and applications etc. It was labor and time intensive as well as messy and dangerous but cheap. Multiple applications were required but in the end the alkaline stripper disolved the underlying oil based coat, allowing the purple acrylic paint to be powerwashed off with a bit of effort. Still after all my trouble I only completed one gable before calling it quits. If your paint will come off just by powerwashing -without damaging your stucco- then by all means take advantage of that situation! Spend some time caulking around windows and doors with silicone (think of using big globs that you can peel out later), duct-tape between storm windows and frames and seal up any possible entry point for water. Mine wouldn't budge with power washing alone but after applying the stripper, I had luck using a rotary surface attachment on my powerwasher wand- it's designed for concrete driveways etc and is awkward to hold up against a wall but it greatly reduces the mess. I am now planning to use a mineral paint over our painted stucco. After working inside and out of this house for 5 years, I have concluded that the two poorly applied layers of paint aren't causing any serious issues with breathability- as long as they arent continuously added to! This house is old and drafty and there is plenty of ventilation behind our stucco as it doesn't reach below our brick foundation and is open into the soffits/eave cavities and roof system etc... It gets enough air. This is also helped by the fact our stud bays are not filled with insulation or foam, there are no vapor barriers, and our climate isn't terrible... Where are you now with your stucco project?

Your cabinets are lovely, must you paint them? If you must, I agree with choosing something else first, such as the granite. If you're doing your backsplash too, perhaps go tile shopping. If you fall in love with something, it will help narrow down your paint choices. Easier to do it that way as paint choices are much larger than granite/ tile choices.