IMO. EM is a retail name, "Effective Microbes." What you're talking about is IMO, Indigenous Micro-Organisms. [Not all IMO is EM, but all EM is IMO.] Much easier to find information if you know how it's catalogued. By definition, EM includes certain rhodobacter species, aka purple non-sulfur bacteria, PNSB, purple photrophics. They are among Nature's more efficient deodorizers, and if you have a source*, I highly recommend adding some to composts, bokashi, grubberies and wormeries. (But then, I use EM to clean. Might be I'm a tad obsessed. -G-) If you're planning on using it just to speed breakdown of worm-appropriate foods in an aerobic setting, you can use bokashi juice, kombucha + molasses, lactic acid serum, cider vinegar (especially where there's fruit in the mix), and pretty much anything else you can think of in the same vein. Fresh bokashi is a great compost starter, so yes for that too. If you're planning on fermenting foodstuffs, it's a little more exacting; EM and any equivalent innoculant intended for a semi-anaerobic use need thriving colonies of selected microbes so as to out-compete whatever's already on the foodstuffs. Using bokashi juice or a handful of finished bokashi (fermented waste) as a starter for a new batch is not generally recommended because, since microbes reproduce at different rates, there's no way to be sure that the desired microbes are still out-competing others by the end of the first ferment. Since you mention carriers (newspaper etc.), I'll assume you're thinking about fermenting foodstuffs. There are a great many people out there who use lacto+yeast preparations. I don't recommend it for non-vegans fermenting their kitchen waste indoors, but YMMV. In which case, diluted kombucha with no flavorings fits the bill, and it's at least easy. There's a bunch of lacto-only folks who use newspaper, and they say it works, but I think we have different definitions of failure. Also, of what constitutes an acceptable required effort. Hanging newspaper on clotheslines? No, thanks. But if you're mixing your own inoculants anyway, there's no real need to bother with a dry carrier. You can use inoculant liquid straight, adding some dry matter to balance, or activate it with molasses and water before use just the way you would with retail EM-1 liquid. (molasses + water + sunlight and heat + time, with a gas release in there now and then until it reaches the desired pH) Haven't started playing with bio-char, so I can't speak to that one, though I have read of folks fermenting EM with charcoal for treating contaminated water and soil. As for IMO using vermicompost...ask me in a month or two. Technique one is cooking as I type this, but still too soon for results, though so far it's promising enough that I think I will start the planned test of technique two. (Nope, not the slightest little bit obsessed, not me!) DSF *rhodos in high concentrations come from some pond muds and the cups of bromeliads. Smaller concentrations can be found in dried leaves, especially leaves fallen on fertile ground and rained on. Still lower concentrations are in many good soils. I actually cultured some from pond mudcolumn and blacklight and all!but it was way too much work for me to be willing to do routinely.

HOLD IT!... so you're chiseling out a j-box-sized hole into the (hopefully) hollow-core of your CBS wall, just so the exterior box will be flush-mounted? How do you know you won't hit a center web, or TWO end webs in the block structure? Plus, every so many of the aligned vertical cavities contains a rebar, and a poured column... don't want to damage that either! =:O Generally, in a CBS home, you live with big "bumps" on your exterior walls, wherever aftermarket boxes are added, and there are no "architectural features" (wood/foam/entry foyer) to embed them in. But, assuming you've reconnoitered your structure with a drill and coat hanger... In answer to your question: NO, you can't use an INterior EMT box on the EXterior of your home, CBS or otherwise, then jury-rig it with stucco, LOL... (I'm assuming CBS = Florida or the Carribean?... ;') Besides, I don't think the Liquidtite/exterior gasketed covers will properly mate/seal with an EMT box. Oh, I know, there's a million tract homes, and under-inspected addtions out there with such "rigs", but they don't meet code either. Conversely, YES, to meet code, you must use an EXterior j-box... they come in PVC and coated metal. I'm no pro, but I've seen no prohibitions on stuccoing over... after inspection. Probably have to "rough up" the box for REAL stucco to adhere... I'm thinking there's a thinner, textured fascimile (spray? brush-on?) made for this... me, I just paint (box only), and leave it smooth. The faceplate + hinged covers I just leave gray/white/original... would only consider using spray on them. I'm not sure what code requires to connect inside and outside boxes, but I just use a 1/2" (nominal) dia. RIGID (threaded) nipple that's long enough to span the block + stucco + whatever's on the interior side. IIRC this requires a hole made w/ a 7/8" masonry hammer-bit. The metal exterior boxes are pre-threaded for such, the interior box will need a locking collar. You'll be grounded up the wazoo... esp. if you top it off with a GND wire! (optional)

Hi Alphamale I went with the Navien NCB 240 which was installed at the end of last July. As it turns out it looks like this boiler is insufficient for my needs probably because of the heat demand required for an indoor pool. I'm still not convinced that even without the pool it may still be insufficient in that I run the heat to the pool for only 12 hours per day and when the only heat demand is for the 1,400 sq. feet of house and domestic hot water for 2 people it still has to work hard to get the heat past 70F. Between 7 PM and 7 AM and when it's cold when the pool and house are calling for heat in the morning the house has gone down to 66 F. This is weird because a contractor told me he installed two of the NCB 240s to heat three floors of 10,000 sq. feet each. I spoke to another highly recommended contractor who did an analysis and concluded that the NCB is in sufficient. I have calls into the local Viessmann distributor and another highly recommended contractor for input and recommendations. I am considering using a separate pool heater but it turns out the only one I can install indoors costs $8,000 plus 13% HST plus installation so that could turn into another 10 grand. I can get an outdoor pool heater but I suspect it would cost 5 grand for the heater plus a custom built shelter for it. Another possibility is to get a propane heater insert for the fireplace which would allow more boiler BTUs for the pool. At any rate Dan, depending on your requirements I would recommend converting to propane if only because that's the direction things are going. OIl for heating is quickly going the way of the dinosaur not to mention a big savings in fuel. From my own research if I had it to do over again I would take a close look at the Veissmann and Trinity boilers and there may be others. So far my experience is turning out to be a horror show so be careful.

Living in Northern California, Eureka Ca close to the ocean. Temperature ranges from 32 degrees in winter to 72 degrees in summer. Our house is a 1882 Victorian. No basement, just a crawl space almost 5 feet in height. Forced air heating mounted horizontal is already in the crawlspace. Gas line is 1 1/4" and branches are 3/4". Have not verified gas supply as yet. Venting depends on whether the unit is indoor or outdoor. If indoor would be mounted on an exterior facing wall.