So many nay-sayers! All it takes is a large pocket book, (preferably inexaustable public funding)and a panel of experts to create a "natural enclosure". Ask your most local zoo! My opinion is it could be done, and with appropriate habitats for different species, BUT, it would be expensive and have to be large enough to provide room for the transition of habitats. You would also be adding LARGE amounts of risk to your pets. Predators, parasites, pathogens, and other microorganisms that you would have no control over. Your pets would also have no defense against them, (other than their shell) as they are not indigenous to your area. None the less, you "could do it". You would have to create a large sump either covered, or separated outside the perimeter of the enclosure. My first thought is a shallow stream, where a slow moving, (but enough flow to carry waste away) stream would drain into your sump area through a screen too small for your smallest pet to get through. (Maybe large holes cut into the side of a 55 gallon drum in a grid pattern.) That sump would need to be AT LEAST a 100 gallons, (not necessarily all in one container), and contain a prefilter, mechanical filter, and bio filter to treat your tortoise wastes. Since they would use it infrequently, (after all, they are tortoises)it would probably work fine to treat the water so long as it could get enough time to chemically breakdown, and balance. Your prefilter could be as simple as a mat of plant roots near the drain to the sump, or a settling chamber, which would also pre-treat the waste, while allowing the dirty water to flow through. Properly chosen, the plants would also provide a food source. You would pump from the sump, beyond all the filters, back up to the head of the stream area, and the water would carry wastes back to the sump through the drain system. Experimentation would be needed to set the water flow, then it would have to be adjusted as the plant growth varied. The automatic requirement is the most interesting part of your idea. THAT could get very expensive! Filter back washing to waste, chemical monitoring, water level, etc. is quite a design feat in itself! But if you are willing to monitor the water level, and run a hose a little every few days/weeks, it would not be too bad to have it manually operated. In fact the bigger the sump, and filters, the less attention it should need if designed right. A simple toilet valve could control water level for you, but the supporting infrastructure becomes an issue. Solar pumps are certainly available to move the amount of water you need to move, and most likely, move it often enough to keep the water healthy, depending on system loads. (size of pond exposed to sun, wind, and relative filter sizes, how many leaves get in, etc.) Just like your pets, water features need attention. So you know, there is no such thing as a maintenance free pond, just one that hasn't been maintained, or is not yet completely full of stuff. Nature puts things in, we take them out. We do this to keep the area a pond. In nature, the pond is always changing, and always filling with gunk, getting shallower and shallower all the time. What you proposed is certainly not a simple project. What other proposed is simpler and more practical. It certainly is cheaper, and less risky to use a large saucer, and unless you are willing to create a large water sump, a lot less headaches! You have easy control over the quality and quantity of the water in the saucer, and simple disinfection with a weak bleach solution provides a micro guard. When you decided to take on pets, you decided to devote a portion of your life to their care. If you want them to live in a natural area, you will need to return them to their native lands and set them free. Other than that, continue to care for them daily. They deserve your attention! And you benefit from providing for them. Heck, they're tortoises, you only have about 25-100 years to take care of them! Buck up! -TT

Ok Thanks to all and the constructive criticism I really have a thick skin and can take it!! I will try to address all concerns addressed so that others and myself can benefit from my mistakes made . "I am more concern about the structural concept. If there is not enough cross bracing, any small movement due to foundation shifting or wind load can pop the glass panels out and do some serious damage to occupants. " The building was built like any other normal building frame style. Everything is built then the glass is added and capped for finish. After that its all sealed so any water cant get thru. On the north wall there is a 24inch section of plywood from the floor up for extra strength. Combine that with the plywood gables there is no movement at all. Its built like a brick you know what before the glass goes in. "There is not a lot of detail in the photos for comments. I can see the sheet metal cladding on the wood. I am not sure that¡¦s a good idea. Have a vapor barrier on the cold side of a humid environment can be problematic." Just ask Ill gladly get you more pictures of any detail you request. The aluminum on the wood is just to keep the water away from the wood and clean up the appearance. I donÂt heat the GH in the winter. Its used more as a storage shed in the off season. All vents are left open and the screen door is also left open to disperse any heat in the winter months. "overall, the design does look impressive and admittedly, I was being overly hard on it. But, recheck your calcs for "structural" glass construction. ;) BTW, If you're still interested in exploring a post + beam framed greenhouse, I've designed quite a few timber framed buildings - many with attached passive solar sunspaces utilizing true post+beam joinery and patio door glass panels, in both vertical and sloped glazing applications. Email me if you'd like to see completed project photos and perhaps share some details." I appreciate the honesty it actually helps me learn. I would also love some help on the "calcs" of the glass install it self. Is the Half inch flange of metal not enough in your opinion? Remember the kerf deal is long gone. The aluminum acts as a kind of glazing strip..Please by all means advise of any other way that may help others reading this.! On the roof itself the glass lays flat on the wood surface with a 1 inch space in between glass panels (lots o silicone). I then screw a 1x3 in between the glass sections so the wood overlaps the glass.At the top of the roof there is about 8 inches of plywood sheeting due to the fact the glass wasnt long enough. So I made the glass start from the eves up as opposed from the top down.I honestly think I gained major strengh this way I then cap over wood for apearance only on the roof. I would also love to review any post+beam joinery and patio door glass panels, in both vertical and sloped glazing applications now your talking!! This is something that I have always wanted to figure out. the next house perhaps!! Let me know what you have in mind.

BM has a caulk for that purpose. Use the best caulk. Wait 24 hours before painting over the caulk. DAP Dynaflex 230 is also a good choice. Examine the chair rail with your finger tips. Smooth out any rough areas or dust nibs. Nail holes should be filled with wood filler or heavy spackling. Sand smooth when dry and spot prime before painting. Never use caulk in nail holes. Note: Fill nail holes, sand chair rail smooth, then caulk after clean up. Michael

Thanks for all the responses. I haven't found any evidence of chewing, and I think they are gone, but it always a new season. Parts of my city with wood frame construction, I believe, tend to have mouse problems. I think I didn't notice it so much for the first few years because I had a cat and I was working two jobs and not around much. I had contacted a realtor who specializes in houses from my builder to see if switching the built in ovens and range top for a single range with about 2 more feet of counter space would hurt property value, and she said she had a mouse guy she could recommend, along with floor refinisher. I believe the cabinets and built in appliances are original 1960. I have gone to Home Depot over the years looking at the cabinets, and they have never bothered me because I was just looking. Now that I go because I want to talk to someone, they are always too busy - I even went on Friday AM thinking - what better time. And even though I was the only customer in the department - still too busy. Not giving me a warm, fuzzy feeling if you know what I mean. Lowes has been putting up some fabulous displays, but were still building them Friday AM - I had previously gone on Monday AM, so don't know if I will have the same problems, with them not talking to you without an appointment. It's just if I can't ask a question without an appointment, I don't know think anyone will talk to me at all if I have problem. Money is an issue - I am a Toyota Corolla kind of gal - but think I might have to spend a bit more for the kitchen then I spent for my last new Toyota. The Custom guy who is working up the estimate - he was recommended by a friend who just loves her cabinets - she paid $8,300 total and that included installation - with pull out drawers and a lazy susan in the bottom corner. I might have just a tad more linear space than she but would be taking out the cabinet below the range top and the cabinet housing the built in oven - but I do want an upper with glass doors.... Of course he told me he was late for my estimate because a builder had called him about a spec house - so he might be desperate enough to give me a good price, or he might think building is opening up again and be more expensive??? My friend got her cabinets in the middle of the building boom. I can't remember what wood she got. My concern was actually that melamine would mean lower quality. I will never leave cereal or croutons in anything but a plastic container again though. I thought I would have the mouse pro inspect the whole kitchen once I had the tear out done.