To pam_chesbay: I probably should have been more clear in my original post. I realize now that it made me sound like an angry, unreasonable person. I actually live in a house in which my backyard butts up against a community of townhomes. If you hop the fence in my backyard, you are on the property of these townhomes. There is a length of ground where the pine trees are growing (this is what was left of a former forest area), then the driveway/road of the townhomes, and then the actual homes. So, the area behind my home is not my neighbor's yard. It is the property of the townhomes and that is where I was throwing the sticks when the person yelled at me and I yelled back. The neighbors to the sides of me (my real neighbors) also have pine trees that are hanging over my property, but I don't make a big deal of it to them. There is no way they would cut down their trees and even if they agreed, it would cost a fortune that none of us would be willing to spend (there are lots of trees and they loom hundreds of feet in the air). Anyway, I get along great with my neighbors. I have actually solved the problem by having a screened porch built. Now the tree debris stays off of my patio, I don't have to sweep, and everyone is happy. Thanks for your supportive post!

I'm not at all sure why a zone 8 climate should limit your choices........in many horticultural circles, zone 8 is considered one of the most accommodating to the largest range of plant types. That's why some of the largest wholesale nurseries and tree growers in the country are located in the PNW. Certainly the Puget Sound area offers a vast array of tree selections of all types - there's not much that doesn't grow here and grow well. Regardless of that, your evergreen choices are somewhat uninspiring in that they are rather commonplace and are not often selected as front yard 'specimen' trees. I'd avoid both the Doug fir and the western red cedar as they will ultimately get far too large for a typical suburban garden, limit other plantings and often develop structural issues that leave them prone to wind damage, falling limbs or even upheaval. And they look (and grow) best in a more woodland setting where they can be grouped with others of their type rather than on a stand alone basis. For natives, I'd include incense cedar or Calocedrus decurrens for a larger choice or a selection of weeping Alaska cedar (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis) for a somewhat smaller tree in my short list. The Alaska cedars look best planted in clumps of two or three. And while not a native, Hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa) is very NW in character, thrives in this climate and offers a very sculptural, Asian quality to the landscape which would compliment the red cedar shingle style of your home. There are many cultivars of this species offering a variety of sizes, colors and foliage textures but I'd go with something classic like 'Gracilis' or 'Wells Special'. And there are countless other coniferous choices that would make more of a statement as a front yard specimen. I'd not be overly concerned about the sewer line and the conifers - their roots are unlikely to cause a problem themselves but if something does run amiss with the sewer, you may face their uprooting or removal to obtain access. Not probable but possible. The water line that is only buried 2' deep is more of an issue - that's just not very deep and you can run into similar issues as noted above but as long as you don't select trees that are known moisture lovers (willows, poplars, birches, the bald cypress) you shouldn't have too many worries. Just don't plant directly above this line....off to the side a distance would be better. And as to deciduous selections, you are wide open. Focusing your requirements for a deciduous tree - mature height/spread, fall color, any flowering attributes, native species or not, etc., would help you to narrow down the many choices available.

I'll stand behind you on this one Chad. Not too far back. I know a LOT of certified techs. that haven't a clue when it comes to actual diagnosis of a vehical. They are taught in school but how many times do you see a text book example of any problem ? I worked for a company that the shop foreman would never hire a licenced certified person. Usually they are certified by one dealership. Lets say FORD. Give them a G.M. or Dodge they haven't a clue. I see his point. I'll say that the poster's brother inlaw is new just out of school and has very little experiance in the trade. Actually on second thought i think he is a lot smarter than we all think. I think it's family and he refuses to get involved. Smart man. We all know about that don't we. I wouldn't sell any member of my family, inlaws or outlaws a car i rebuilt even with showing them $3000.00 worth of bills. You know how it goes after they get the car. " The oil got dirty, the block heater quit working, the windshield wipers need replacing, it needs brakes now, now it needs tires, the muffler fell off, it needs gas, it needs a tuneup,the ash trays are full, " i only had this car for 4 years and it's falling apart, what king of garbage mechanic are you that can't fix anything "? How many of you out there have heard this ?

1. low gas pressure 2. weak ignitor 3. debris blocking burner closest to the ignitor Gas is actually filling the chamber but missing the ignitor in most cases. When it hits the top and mushrooms down, BANG! Very typical for this heater.