Compost. All of the nutrients in compost require that activity of the Soil Food Web to release which is why it is a soil amendment and not a fertilizer, but is the single best thing you can add to your soil along with other types of organic matter. In organic gardeneing we feed the soil not the plants and you need to get away from thinking of "fertilizers" and think more of soil health.

AFAIK the issue isn't so much that they don't need them - all plants need some - but that most garden soils contain more than enough phosphorus and potassium naturally, some contain excessive amounts. So the addition of high P and K supplements is simply a waste of money as well as contributing to the problems of run-off and ground water contamination. However plants in containers rather than in ground are a totally different matter. Standard potting mixes do not contain ample P or K and any nutrients they do contain are frequently washed out as the container of so often watered. So supplemental feedings of a balanced fertilizer is necessary. So which are we talking about - in ground plants or plants in containers? If your plants are in ground and if your garden soil has tested out as low in P and K for some reason then supplements may be needed. However, there are a number of factors that contribute to blooming or not blooming. The only way you can know if the soil is the problem is to have it tested. From the bit of research I have done on poppies - and no guarantee on its accuracy - I wouldn't expect most varieties to be blooming yet in your zone anyway. Most sources seem to indicate blooming time, depending on the weather, is 45-60 days after germination and late February to early March in zone 10. Sound about right? Dave

Hi Herding Cats: If you have any questions, check out the rosarian Karl Bapst's website. He's in zone 5a like mine, but many of his wisdom applies to warmer zones as well. The link to his website is below: Here's an excerpt from Karl regarding fertilizing: "Dry Chemical fertilizers have a tendency to burn the tiny feeder roots that develop in the spring, especially on newly planted bushes. Many years ago I lost many bushes due to over enthusiastic chemical fertilizing when I pruned in the spring thinking that it would help the bushes get off to a good start. I then found out that those feeder roots die off during our winter and must grow back in the spring so I now use organics. When fertilizing a little, often is better than a lot all at once, so let that be your guide." Karl is right, I burnt roots even with dry organic fertilizer like Rose Tone or Hollytone (both contain bone meal, high phosphorus stuff tend to burn). Any dry granules, be it organic or chem., is best applied at low temp., low dose, and plenty of rain. Here is a link that might be useful: Karl Bapst's website

Agreed - low light and too warm is usually the cause. Since nothing changed with the genetics of the plant - adjusting the conditions will correct the issue on the new leaves. Old leaves will stay green. Regarding the fertilizer, more or less balanced fertilizer in consistent low doses works usually better than high bloom, high nitrogen etc. Much more dangerous if the plants decide to go all white. Kaput. i.