You might look at BM Mascarpone, one of BM's Affinity colors. It is a warm, creamy white. I used it in my kitchen and have been happy with it. I used BM Simply White for the trim (at the suggestion of the color consultant at BM.)

dgarstang, don't think SW Passive goes with your floor. You have brown in your floor - none in that gray that I can see, and it will look blue/green in comparison, IMHO. Gray in general is not going to make things brighter than what you have - and could make them colder. If you've not got much natural light, and want it to be warm and bright, go with a cream that is on the warmer side and you really cannot go wrong. It's timeless - not trendy (I'm guessing gray is going to be pretty OUT sooner or later - and that's coming from someone with two gray bathrooms. ;) )

Hi Lori, Color chip is a great tool to narrow down your color choices. When you’ve narrowed it down to a few finalists, pint samples are there to help you. We recommend painting a poster size board and move it around the room to see how light and other surrounding environment effects the color. View it in the morning, afternoon and at night with your lights on. Switch out to another color and which one you like better. That doesn't answer the question. You started out labeling the color chips with "bluer undertones" and "redder undertones" when they were compared to each other. Then when another set of colors were introduced to the mix, when the context for a narrow one-on-one comparison was changed, you changed how you categorized Stonington to "subtle yellow tones" when paired with blues. And that begs the question, so what about when it's not paired with blues? So, if depending on context, Stonington can have "bluer undertones" or "subtle yellow tones" why assign absolute "undertones" or "tones" in the first place? And "Sea Froth 2107-60 looks redder next to Barren Plain" but we don't get any more clarification about Barren Plain's attributes specifically. When asked to clarify, your solution is to go buy samples, paint them, and move them around the room. Because now - all of sudden - the light matters. Whereas when you were so definitively labeling and categorizing the colors by bluer undertones, redder undertones and yellow tones the light wasn't a factor --- then. .... but now it is. Apparently the only way out is to randomly go buy samples, shuffle through the painted boards and hope one of the colors in the stack works. At least I think that's what you're saying. (And just to be clear none of this has anything to do with Color DNA. Color DNA refers to color measurements and resulting spectral data/color data values.)

Benjamin Moore has a lot of white shades -- not sure if they come in exterior colors. In the examples from this Houzz post, I like the "halo" -- barely a hint of gray in the white ... something far better in a white than a yellow or pink hue. [https://www.houzz.com/discussions/what-white-for-kitchen-cabinets-dsvw-vd~5004910[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/what-white-for-kitchen-cabinets-dsvw-vd~5004910)