if you have subs that you know and have worked with before, or can get some good recommendations, you probably can do without a GC. you'll have to source your own materials, of course, but that's easily done with the internet these days. the timeline is determined by just thinking it through. in most cases, it's pretty self-evident. you do all your rough-ins of electrical and plumbing right after you gut the room. then repair the walls and start doing floors, cabinets, etc... there are lots of folks in here that can answer these questions for you. in the case of something 'coming up', you can always call someone in to help you, if need be.

Hi Chief. You're going to have to decide to stop reading everything and focus on one thing. If you pick this place, I can guarantee success (or dinner is on us). Of course you have to do all the work, but we have a low hassle approach that seems to withstand the tests of time. Even your wife will be able to relax and let the bejeezus settle back into the lawn until next time. Here's the simple deal... Watering - the mantra for mature turf, like yours will be sometime late next spring, is to water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means 1 full inch all at one time. This deep watering allows the water to penetrate deeper into the soil where all kinds of biological magic happen with the roots and the soil microbes. Infrequent means once per week when the temps are in the 90s, once every 2 weeks with temps in the 80s, once every 3 weeks with temps in the 70s, and once a month with temps cooler than 70s. So what does that mean for between now and June? If you had mature grass it would mean you almost never water until April. Then you water once. If it gets into the 70s, move to once every 3 weeks. You will be gradually increasing the watering frequency as the temps warm. What this does is withhold water at the surface so your grass will develop deep, drought resistant roots. It also withholds surface moisture from the weed seeds which need daily water for a few days to germinate. So simply by proper watering you're doing your grass a favor and fighting weeds at the same time. Mowing - mulch mow every week at your mower's highest setting or one notch lower. Tall fescue grows much deeper roots which leads to healthier grass all summer. If you need to overseed next fall you can lower the deck for that. Fertilizer - once in the late spring, once in the early fall, and once in the late fall. If you can remember Memorial Day, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving, you're good to go. DO NOT BE TEMPTED by the TV ads early in the spring to get out there and start spreading fertilizer or weed n feed. If you need an herbicide, it is much better to spot spray individual weeds with Weed-B-Gone rather than spreading stuff all over everywhere. And if you use a fertilizer in the early spring, the grass will be suffering by late spring and you'll be tempted to over apply fertilizer in May. I would make at least one of your annual fertilizer apps an organic fertilizer. Yes, they are real fertilizer. I'm talking about fertilizer and not about peat moss, compost, or manure. Real fertilizer. If you want to know more about organic fertilizer, just ask. I've been all organic since 2002 and many others here can help you. This is not your daddy's organic fertilizer any more. You should not need to aerate. You read about it all the time in magazines and news papers, and you hear about it from just about everyone, but there's no solid need for it. If you have hard soil after it rains, then we can discuss something else that works much faster and better than aerating. The crabgrass will die. Other weeds can be attacked with Weed-B-Gone or Weed-B-Gone Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis killer (stronger solution for special weeds). Again, spot spray the broadleaf weeds. Ignore the crabgrass.

There is no difference between a home builder and a general contractor To repeat the second response on this thread: Vague terms whose definition varies by jurisdiction. For instance, as per the British Columbia government housebuilding registration site: Ditto in Ontario, where my municipal renovator's license counted for bupkis when I wanted to build a new home for sale.

3+/ I believe that insurance should cover all risks of loss of funds, money or damage to materials. You will protect yourself from the fact that something may not go according to your plan. That's exactly how it was for me. I started working with my house, but it took too much money. I was upset. I realized that I needed to hire a contractor. In the end, I turned to these guys https://alsharqa.net/%D9%85%D9%82%D8%A7%D9%88%D9%84-%D8%AA%D8%B4%D8%B7%D9%8A%D8%A8-%D8%A8%D8%A7%D9%84%D8%AF%D9%85%D8%A7%D9%85-%D8%A7%D9%84%D8%B4%D8%A7%D8%B1%D9%82%D9%87-%D9%84%D9%84%D9%85%D9%82%D8%A7%D9%88%D9%84%D8%A7/. They did their job very well. I was satisfied with all the finishing work done! And what would you say about turning to someone for professional help?