The GC is more than a consultant and he's not going to share his subs with you. You'll be on your own to find someone in each trade and then explain to them what needs to be done and how you want it. The drop ceiling is going to need a carpenter, drywall guy and an electrician. Are you able to be around to organize all these trades so that each step of the process is finished before the next sub comes in? The appliances can be installed by the people you buy them from. For such a small job, you'll probably have trouble finding a contractor to take on the work. But in today's economy, maybe not! Instead, I'd check around for some of the Handyman/remodel businesses since this is right up their alley. We've used both..........it just depends on the size of the job.

Hi Chief. You're going to have to decide to stop reading everything and focus on one thing. If you pick this place, I can guarantee success (or dinner is on us). Of course you have to do all the work, but we have a low hassle approach that seems to withstand the tests of time. Even your wife will be able to relax and let the bejeezus settle back into the lawn until next time. Here's the simple deal... Watering - the mantra for mature turf, like yours will be sometime late next spring, is to water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means 1 full inch all at one time. This deep watering allows the water to penetrate deeper into the soil where all kinds of biological magic happen with the roots and the soil microbes. Infrequent means once per week when the temps are in the 90s, once every 2 weeks with temps in the 80s, once every 3 weeks with temps in the 70s, and once a month with temps cooler than 70s. So what does that mean for between now and June? If you had mature grass it would mean you almost never water until April. Then you water once. If it gets into the 70s, move to once every 3 weeks. You will be gradually increasing the watering frequency as the temps warm. What this does is withhold water at the surface so your grass will develop deep, drought resistant roots. It also withholds surface moisture from the weed seeds which need daily water for a few days to germinate. So simply by proper watering you're doing your grass a favor and fighting weeds at the same time. Mowing - mulch mow every week at your mower's highest setting or one notch lower. Tall fescue grows much deeper roots which leads to healthier grass all summer. If you need to overseed next fall you can lower the deck for that. Fertilizer - once in the late spring, once in the early fall, and once in the late fall. If you can remember Memorial Day, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving, you're good to go. DO NOT BE TEMPTED by the TV ads early in the spring to get out there and start spreading fertilizer or weed n feed. If you need an herbicide, it is much better to spot spray individual weeds with Weed-B-Gone rather than spreading stuff all over everywhere. And if you use a fertilizer in the early spring, the grass will be suffering by late spring and you'll be tempted to over apply fertilizer in May. I would make at least one of your annual fertilizer apps an organic fertilizer. Yes, they are real fertilizer. I'm talking about fertilizer and not about peat moss, compost, or manure. Real fertilizer. If you want to know more about organic fertilizer, just ask. I've been all organic since 2002 and many others here can help you. This is not your daddy's organic fertilizer any more. You should not need to aerate. You read about it all the time in magazines and news papers, and you hear about it from just about everyone, but there's no solid need for it. If you have hard soil after it rains, then we can discuss something else that works much faster and better than aerating. The crabgrass will die. Other weeds can be attacked with Weed-B-Gone or Weed-B-Gone Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis killer (stronger solution for special weeds). Again, spot spray the broadleaf weeds. Ignore the crabgrass.

I agree, talk to a good HVAC contractor. Finding the good ones is the key point. I'd question if what you are asking for makes sense for your house (how new and how tightly, or not. is your home sealed). Do you want unheated/unconditioned air coming directly into your kitchen, do you want to stand under that supply of air when it is 32 degrees outside? Qualifier: I'm not familiar with Fantech products. What is used in newer, well sealed homes are devices knows as HRV or ERV (Heat Recovery Ventilators or Energy Recovery Ventilators). What these devices do is get any heat from air being exhausted from the structure (cooking, bathroom exhaust, clothes dryer exhausts, etc.), and exchange the heat to add it to air coming into the structure (some do exchange of moisture along with heat). In some areas, northern and colder climates and Canada, these devices are required by code. If your structure is older and enough makeup air comes in through door and windows seals, mail slots, screen doors, garage entrances, dryer and bathroom exhausts when not in use, etc., etc. then you don't want this arrangement. A good HVAC contractor will have someone on staff who understands all this stuff and can tell you what options make sense for your house.

Sounds like someone none of the other GC’s in the area would hire to be their job superintendents, for a reason, so he’s trying to set up shop as one as a side hustle, and still do carpentry as his day job. You’d better verify the insurance situation yourself. Guys who present certificates where they paid the first month’s premium, then got canceled, are counting on you not calling the agent listed. And get in touch with your bank to have a progress vs disbursement review. You're going to need a longer build time before converting to a permanent mortgage if you have a 2 close loan. Also talk with your local permitting and inspections office to see what the procedure is for extending the building permit. Being the GC comes with a lot of responsibility. Accept that you have to assume the whole responsibility here, and gear up to get your subs more motivated and in line. But since you are a one off project, motivation to work on your self build project usually comes down to $$. You are also responsible for quality control. If you don’t know enough to tell if the parts are done correctly? Things like window and door flashing, roof flashing, insulation and roof ventilation, plumbing slope and ventilation, electrical capacity and outlet distribution, lot grading and other moisture control, etc. Those are critical to keeping your home dry and warm. Hire a separate construction inspector for that. For milestone inspections. Out of pocket.