Yes, I plan to put a spigot in. For now I'm using a bucket until we get around to it. Five bazillion other things on the "must do now" list ;) I'll likely buy more barrels for other locations, but given that we have ZERO rainwater these days, is not a big deal right now. Will get round to it soon - maybe before these supposed El Nino rains come this autumn? There's a limit to how much I can re-design the yard. Things are based mostly on what type of sun they will get. The area where the washer is will become a raised garden probably next spring, but for now I'd like to kill what dregs of grass are still there.... My backyard will be more of a "work zone" - clothesline, raised garden beds, driveway. The side yard (it's a double lot) is the "play zone" - lots of grass/shade trees, playhouse, sand box, small simple bistro-type patio. We've got two downspouts on this side where I'll probably put the barrels in. The opposite side - nearer to the street, is going to have one raised bed, the rest of the area has large crepe myrtles. I may be putting in a xeriscape type garden outside the fence line (for now it's dead St. Augustine and some Bermuda). There's another downspout here where I may put a smaller barrel, a big one would be harder to disguise in this location. The front is the "showy" side - grass + lots of native plants. I probably won't put any barrels in front. We do have a downspout, but it gets directed into a garden bed already - mostly cana lillies but will eventually have something else. We're on a corner lot, the entire yard is exposed, and we've worked a TON at trying to restore this house to its former glory (1880s pseudo-victorian in an historic district), so I am balancing visual aesthetics with practicality. Or at least trying to :) Oh, and because it's pier/beam foundation, the goal with the downspouts is to direct the water AWAY from the house (we've put in a slope as well) to minimize shifting. For this reason I don't want to have any plants too close to the house, since I don't want to put water there. Here is a link that might be useful: The Money Pit

Lavendar, hope your tooth gets better. I've got one that beginning to make itself feel unwelcome--had forgotten how crummy teeth can make you feel. I suspect that you have seen sufficient images to help you clarify what options are available to you. There is a pursuit of the Ultimate that sometimes blinds us. Your lists show that you know a lot about what you want, including more color than you had originally anticipated. That plants are a part of the design is one of the most innovative parts of your list. It may become even more important if you include plant shelves, light, etc in the permanent physical design. (Aren't you redoing a former porch space? Can you plan good spots for plants within it?) I think that a general yellow-dominant pastel palette is a good thing for you and cream-colored or light gold wood trimming. Add the blues, violets, pinks, greens to broaden things. If this were a piece of music, it would be a melody by sopranos and altos, with occasional lower voices dropping down to make a harmonic chord in a major key. One of the exciting things that happens in this design and installation process is that stuff happens along the way. If you make some major basic decisions, including best floor plan and what the budget is, many other things will fall into place, sometimes because other options fall by the wayside. Once you know what you can in good conscience even consider, the outliers become noise in the background and you can cover your ears if you have spine enough. Room and lighting layout and plumbing and electrical installation are such biggies. Consider these things first before color schemes. Redoing them is almost cost-prohibitive. Paint, fabric, rugs, and small items are add-ins and easily changeable. Light fixtures and non-curtain window coverings are semi-permanent, requiring a force of will and some budget if they are changed. Furniture pieces put you at the mercy of fashion, budget, and availability--they may be easy or hard. Cabs, appliances, floors, and wall tiles are expensive and lock you in or out of other options. Is that layout pretty much done or are you still incubating? Make decisions in wise order--layout first--but keep an eye out for an item or two that can be the "killer piece" or "killer feature" that will define your room in the minds of those who have been there. I urge you to try to forget the descriptive labels--DH says the only ones who love pigeonholes are pigeons. Remember it's only a kitchen. You noted that curved things attract you. This is an important realization and one that can help you make a distinctive personal space unlike any other out there. I recall your question about round topped windows. I suggest regular angular windows in a dramatic round-topped niche with fabric or custom finish along the curve. You clearly know other ways to include curves--go for it! I think it's time for you to venture outside and engage the other side of your brain. Go touch, feel, think in kitchen displays. And go to a florist, a fabric store (the drapery dept), the best tile shop in town, a high-end antique shop, a furniture store, a lighting store, and a cabinet shop. Then go to the builder supply stores and see what they charge for similar stuff. If open house season or Parade of Homes is starting, head out. Keep tabs on your reactions: Where do you find yourself in these places? Are your design declarations (above) still in place? THEN you can go find appliances and cabs. Faucets and sinks are a distraction--ignore them until you hone that layout and mark where the permanent stuff goes and where the variable stuff goes. Whether it's light fixtures or kitchen tables and tablecloths, it's not helpful to mentally buy them until you know how much money and space you've got and until you've made/seen a drawing so you can imagine being in the space. And as they say, chance favors the prepared mind, so knowing the plan tells you whether a serendipitous "find" is your best choice. We're all looking forward to watching you progress down the kitchen road, but you can only solicit so much advice. Experience is the next step.

I think if it were mine I would have Hardy plank(fiber cement siding) added solid all around the bottom it will last forever with no maintenance. If ventilation is needed I would cut one rectangular cut out on each side and install solid metal mesh screen and then vent slats over that, frame it in like a picture frame so it looks pretty, similar to that picture of the vent but with the metal mesh screening inside. nothing could get in and it would get ventilation. The Hardy plank is good solid long lasting material, it is cement based, and can be painted any color. The vent would match just like the vent in the picture of your shed in the top of the wall. You can actually buy those vents and just cut the slot to nail it into the Hardy plank.

Thanks for the kind words. I agree that your house is going to be great. The truss you posted does not "cantilever" since its supported at each end; it just doesn't have a continuous bottom chord. Because of the tall porch, the elevation is a bit deceptive. I now realize that this house will have a large footprint so if a porch is under the span of the roof, its possible a truss is the only way the roof can be framed without the use of very deep engineered rafters and/or intermediate supports and foundations. Such framing options would depend greatly on the floor plan. I would be looking for ways to allow skylight shafts to fit between the trusses. Maybe its as simple as doubling up trusses either side of a skylight.