Thanks everyone for the advice! Here is more information: The shower is finished. The main wall is the American Olean 2 x 4 glass tile. (Its called charcoal - www.lowes.com/pd_355357-74035-DG7124BJHC1P_4294730930%2B4294965034 ) The other walls are the floor tile which is a 12x24 beige color. It doesn't have any pizazz but it looks fine. Originally I was going to have some of the blue mosaic be part of the shower but had the idea nixed by both the tile stores saleslady and my contractor as being to busy.... I will take more pictures tomorrow evening after the painters have finished and post. Again, my original idea was to have this mosaic "Majestic Ocean 1x1" really shine on the vanity wall...I still could have it on the vanity wall but it would only show 2 inches on the sides and lower edge. The top would have about 10 inches show since the light fixtures would be mounted above the mirrors.

I know this is long, Heidi, but I've got personal experience with your situation. To be brief, I'm confident that this tree is not even close to death's door, and would be much better served by fixing the causes of its decline now so it can green up and be much healthier to deal with the stress of repotting next summer. In particular, your ficus was thriving until three months ago, and we know that the decline was caused by low light and poor watering, which means that fixing the root congestion and soil aren't an emergency. To be clear, gardengal is probably right that you could repot now without killing the tree, but because it would be easy to get it green again by correcting the biggest problems now, you would be best off waiting until summer to do major root work and put it in a great growing medium. Then you will be rewarded with a burst of new growth, and you'll soon be pinching growing tips and pruning to control its enthusiastic growth and tell it to fill in all those gaps left by dropped leaves. My experience: I have two smaller roughly five year old ficuses that were completely rootbound and were stuck in a dim corner. I often forgot about watering until leaves started yellowing and dropping, and the I'd fill their tall plastic 'saucers' and left the water there until they stopped soaking it up. In other words, I drowned the roots every time I watered, and maximized the amount of deadly mineral deposits in the soil. Aside from feeble attempts to maintain a few leaves, they had almost stopped growing entirely because their depleted energy reserves made them more vulnerable to attack and only allowed them to put our a few leaves at a time, and most of the buds and leaves that appeared were killed by spider mites. But these are tough plants, so they clung to life for about three years before I finally cared enough to search for answers and found these forums. I immediately started treating the mite infestation, thoroughly flushed the pots (I swear I could hear them sigh with relief), fertilized with a weak solution of Foliage Pro, which has a great ratio of basic nutrients plus all the micronutrients plants need, moved it in front of my best window, which only provides mediocre light, and added bright white (not soft white) 5000k 100W led and cfl bulbs in clamp-on fixtures. Two months later, each branch has about half a dozen new leaves, including some emerging near the stem (a sign that the tree is getting better). It's wonderful to see them getting so green, and I'm already reading up on how to prune them when they get growing again. So Heidi, if I were in your place, I'd start by checking the leaves for spider mites with a bright light and a magnifying glass (they're tiny red dots on the leaves, and you may see little bits of webs on the leaves our branches). Ask about treatment if you find any. Then I'd flush the pot (details below), fertilize with a 3:1:2 ratio fertilizer (miracle gro general purpose granules are easy to find and the right ratio), move it to the best window I had, and put two 100 or brighter led or cfl bulbs in it for 12 hours a day, using a timer. From then on, check soil moisture by pushing a sharpened 3/8" dowel all the way through to the bottom of the pot, and DO NOT WATER until the dowel comes out completely clean and dry (at that point there's still a lot of water inside the soil particles). When that happens, water until about 15% of the water exits the drain holes, let it drain, and then either tilt the pot at 45 degrees for 15-30 minutes after watering to remove excess water, or insert a wick into a drain hole and raise the pot up so the wick won't come in contact with the drained water. You can wait until the surface of the soil is dry to start checking the soil moisture, but after that you should check daily until you have a feel for how long it takes for the poor to dry up. About flushing: flush with lukewarm water, using about ten times the pot's capacity, then give it a weak solution of fertilizer. Use R/O (reverse osmosis) water if possible; water from supermarket water machines are usually $.39 per gallon, and that little pot will maybe need two or three gallons to do the job. My water is hard, so I used R/O water to flush, and because my tap water is hard I use water from my cheap faucet-mounted filter for regular watering. And the reason midsummer is the best time to do something stressful is that 1) ample summer sunlight generates much more energy from the leaves than even a lot of winter sunlight can provide, and 2) the plant is programmed to put energy into new growth in summer, whereas in winter it wants to store it for use in the spring. From several people's experience, including Al (talks), who knows whereof he speaks, if you take two healthy plants and repot one now and one next June, the second will be in better shape next fall than the one you repotted a year earlier. Sorry for my rambling post, and I hope it helps at least a little.

I would hold off. Is it marble? Is it original to the house? Your house is older and the fireplace did work at one point. Have someone in to find out what the problem is and whether it can be fixed. Then think and think some more... In other words the only thing I would do immediately is get rid of the paneling (it might be brick underneath) and strip the paint off the mantle and surround, which is VERY pretty... This house needs tlc by undoing the various "updates" from past owners...

OP, just a few comments right now - your house is not "ugly" and I think your inspiration pic with the blue, white + natural wood IMHO is spot on. think you intuitively hit on color, textures, architectural elements that would work with your own house. Notice how both contain many horizontal elements which is a defining feature of midcentury - the horizontal wood screening over the windows in inspiraton pic meshes nicely with your horizontal windows, roofline, etc. The trick is to translate the inspiration to a version that works for you and your budget. I wouldnt rush into anything, show your pics & talk to some local creatives and craftspeople - you might be surprised at what 4 zeros could accomplish. Depending on what it is sometimes custom carpentry can be surprisingly competitive. So excited to see your pics, but then continuing down the thread get hit with a wet blanket of dreary taupe, gray, white, blah. Follow your bliss op - you wont regret it! Oh BTW I think the slate colors (blue-blacks/blue grays/rusts) are beautiful but just cant see where that stone would fit in your landscape in any kind of meaningful way. You might though want to consider it an inspiration pic and translate those slate colors into a color scheme for your exterior.