Wow. The guys on that inspectors forum seem to take great joy in finding interpretations making something illegal. So you might have some trouble getting it past your local inspector and would need to ask beforehand. It looks to me like it should meet the intent if you had enough of them to match the standard fixed receptacle requirement, and if the UL testing covered the specific type of installation. I don't see why they are comparing this to an extension cord from another room. If the UL testing covered the flexible cord as part of the device, I see no added hazard. You aren't going to overload it, walk on it, or trip over it. Some of them even seemed to be ok with the safety of the cord, but wouldn't count it as meeting the requirement for a kitchen counter. Seems to me if you have the required number always available for use, how it is connected is unimportant.

The main issue with safety of wiring in any place is the risk of damage to the wire, by, say walking on it. Since you said BX, you do mean the armoured cable, right? Where I am in Canada, they only use Romex (non-armoured) under islands etc, the code allowing this because the wires are enclosed. Provided the wires are not damaged in any way, they are quite waterproof and presumably there are no junction boxes or anything at that floor level, so at worst, they could be lying in a pool of water. For that matter, if you had a flood in the kitchen, and water ran through the floor into a light fixture in the floor below, you could potentially be in the same situation, yet it's allowed. If you were really concerned, you could have that breaker replaced with a GFCI one (what do these wires supply power to anyway?) which certainly couldn't hurt. I'm not an electrician but I work with electricity as part of my job and I see a lot of new construction, and, like I said, if it's armoured cable, it's *better* than most of what I see, so from what you've said, I wouldn't worry. As for the gap, it keeps the kick out of any potential water and allows some airflow. If the kick is a clip-on panel, you may be able to slide it down.

1) Recessed outlets behind furniture -- nightstands, wall-mounted TVs, fridge https://www.google.com/search?q=recessed+outlet&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAmoVChMIibiwo-H5xwIVlVqICh1vewte&biw=1333&bih=658 2) Adjustable depth outlets (the ones with a screw that you can tighten or unscrew to move the entire outlet box forward or back within the wall) in kitchen, bath, and anywhere else that would be relevant. After your walls/tile is finished, it is so easy to get the adjustable outlets to be flush with your tile/backsplash, but it so hard to get non-adjustable ones set to the right depth ahead of time (before any walls/tile are in place). 3) Two-way switches at the entrance and exit of every hallway, staircase (indoor and outdoor), and large room. 4) If you are getting dimmers, go handle some dimmers at a lighting store. Some of the controls are super annoying (the buttons, the slides controlled by a tiny nib) and some are a breeze (the slides with larger handles). Make sure you like what you're getting. You will handle these things every day. 5) Think about glare on the TV and try to provide for at least some lighting that avoids that. My husband hates the glare from our lighting on the TV so much that our entire living/dining/kitchen has to be dark when he is watching TV. I rarely am watching TV with him and do not want to do my activities in the dark. Many arguments have sprung from this. In some large rooms or rooms with several different types of lighting (like the kitchen), you might want to break up some of the lighting into different switches. Think that through. E.g., in the family room, maybe the table/floor lamps are on one switch and the overhead lighting is on a different switch. E.g. #2, we have seven can lights in our kitchen, and they are controlled by two switches -- the two cans over the sink on one switch, and the five others on the other switch. I don't ever really want dim light in the kitchen, but sometimes I am just getting a glass of water and all I really need is the sink illuminated, but I want that light to be bright. 7) If you do not already have your light fixtures chosen, quickly choose as many of them as possible. For example, one light over the bathroom mirror requires one box, but two lights over the bathroom mirror requires two separate boxes. You may think the former will be fine but then in practice down the road, you cannot find anything you like that is both pretty and bright enough in one fixture. Now you wish you could get two, and you're stuck. Place boxes with actual fixtures you already know of, like, and an can afford either purchased or in mind.

Just to clarify the reference to Romex. Romex is a brand/trade name for NM-B, which often refers to 12/2 or 14/2 cable that is jacketed with two hot wires and a ground inside the jacket. Its also available with a third conductor as 12/3 or 14/3. Although NM-B could be run in conduit under the slab, the outer jacket makes it larger and harder to pull. The more common solution is to pull three separate THHN or THWN conductors inside the conduit, since it is much easier to pull through the conduit. Pulling NM-B through conduit corners and angles is almost impossible unless the conduit is much larger than the cable, since the jacket binds as it bends around the corner. Your electrician should not have any code issues with either solution. Bruce