Red pantry door doesn’t look quite right!
Lori
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Comments (20)
dan1888
2 years agohighdesertowl
2 years agoRelated Discussions
cheap kitchen floor that doesn't _look_ cheap?
Comments (28)Something bad happened that actually was a very, very good thing... After following breiaj's instructions to the letter, two of the floor tiles in the bathroom popped up a couple of days later and wouldn't stay stuck. When I pulled them up the rest of the way, I found a leak! If it hadn't been for those tiles unsticking, we wouldn't have found that leak until it did a LOT more damage - like made a big ole mess of the kitchen ceiling. So here's one way in which vinyl tile might actually be BETTER than sheet! A few notes WRT breiaj's instructions... I admit to dropping back to $3.99 paintbrushes because they became unworkable so quickly - the glue would start to dry up in the bristles while we were working and it would become more like a paddle than a brush! We didn't have any problems with bristle loss. 2" flat-ended paintbrushes were just the right size, a wider brush seemed like it would save time but was really more awkward to work with, especially with cut pieces. Don't bother wearing rubber gloves in hopes of keeping your hands clean, they stick to the tile's adhesive and to the adhesive you're spreading on and just generally irritate the crap out of you. :-) The adhesive - Armstrong's anyway - is kind of hard on your hands though, and contrary to the label does not wash off with soap and water! We ended up using a "painter's wipes" product we had on hand to clean up our hands about every hour because we would get too sticky to work effectively, and our fingertips were pretty raw and sore afterward. Even though it costs a bit more it's a lot easier to work with the smaller containers of adhesive using this brush-on method, because the bucket gunks up something awful. If you're laying more than about 100 square feet, seriously consider coughing up for the vinyl tile cutter (homedepot.com has one for about $50, or you can rent a superduper heavy-duty one for about the same for a weekend)... scoring and snapping with a utility knife sucks after a while, it's slow and hard on your hands. Make sure you have a comfortable utility knife no matter what though, and a LOT of blades. Stanley makes a really nice knife in their FatMax line, with a rubber-cushioned handle. A jamb or undercut saw ($15) makes dealing with those door jambs SO much easier than trying to cut the tile around them! We removed the baseboards; we were going to replace them with vinyl cove but the damn stuff just would not cooperate so we patched the baseboards with wood filler galore and put them back, and it looked SO much neater than butting the tiles up to the baseboards. deeje, I've checked around with several manufacturers of vinyl tile and the biggest deal WRT moisture is not to slop around too much water when you mop - contrary to popular belief, you don't need a gallon bucket full of near-boiling water and some vile chemical to get a floor clean! Try a well-squeezed-out sponge or terrycloth/microfiber mop instead of a sopping string or rag mop instead. Those microfiber cleaning cloths fit on Swiffer handles really well, if like me you are too cheap to buy the Swiffer cloths. :-) ctaylors6, the instructions in the Cryntel box agree with the Lowes guy - wash well-secured vinyl very well, rinse well, allow to dry thoroughly. I'd use something like TSP that would destroy any gloss on the existing floor. Our vinyl was trashed so we couldn't leave it, so I can't speak to the adhesive method on top of vinyl. We still haven't gotten the kitchen floor laid down yet. We had to tear out some of the subfloor and replace it, and then do a lot of leveling and sanding on the rest, got diverted with a day of electrical work, and to top it all off DH has been sick as a dog. :-( Cross your fingers for this weekend!...See MoreDeep red that doesn't require a million coats?
Comments (26)Thank you so much for the wonderful responses! I wrote down all the color suggestions and went over them with my daughter. She decided to go with French Roast, which is a dark chocolate brown. I'm saving the reds for future reference, though. I do love a good deep red. Funcolors--I really appreciate the information on reds. I finally found the name of the red (Brick, ACE paint) I used before and I even wrote down the formula (E, T, and KX, but the letters make no sense to me, lol). The base used was red. Is there a way one could tell if the pigment is organic or inorganic? Would the mixing person know? Auntjen--thanks for the tips on Aura. It sounds like it would work for me after all. I AM going to try it soon, just not this time around. The Ace Hardware paint employee expressed concern about being able to match a Sherwin Williams color in Aura. I think this is why I don't use it--the colors it comes in haven't been my preference and they always hedge when asked to match, even in their own regular paint colors. They charge $64 a gallon for it, too. That seems high, especially considering I can get Citron locally (I'm in Tucson) for less. Now I'm thinking red for my daughter's bathroom. I guess I should finish the bedroom first....See MoreHELP! Is this a Shindeshojo? Something doesn't seem right here..
Comments (16)Agreed-- the leafed out trees you have pictured are not Shindeshojo. Hard to say what they are when they look so similar to many of the red uprights out there. I've spent a long while this spring investigating the hardiness of Shindeshojo, because I'd like to plant one in-ground in a prominent spot in my 5b garden. I spoke with Diana at Topiary Gardens, who has an entire Japanese maple nursery in zone 5a. She was very helpful. She said Shindeshojo is a cultivar that does well for her in 5a when it's planted in a sheltered location, but it has some tip dieback when it's out in an open field. Both of her large Shindeshojos have been through the past couple of brutal northern winters, so I trust her experience when she says it's hardy. I'm going to plant it. She also said Shin Chishio, (aka Chishio Improved) is not as hardy as Shindeshojo, and shows twiggier growth. Finally, she suggested protecting young trees like Shindeshojo in the winter by giving them some wind protection. I put a loose plastic tube around my young Shindeshojo this winter, and it did fine in a pot (!!) here in 5b. Granted, I'd put some bubble wrap and hay around the pot, but still.... it's pretty hardy if it can make it through winter in a pot here in 5b. As for sun exposure, I'd guess it can take quite a bit up in PA. I'm going to be planting mine in an area where it will get sun until mid to late afternoon....See Morestain doesn’t look like what we picked out with builder
Comments (23)Pine is soft wood, so the softer areas of the wood will absorb more stain in comparison to the harder areas and the results could have a huge color variation. Before staining pine the wood must be conditioned to avoid what grain reversal. Using wood conditioner helps to achieve a more even finish. It's a process when staining pine and if you skip the necessary prep steps and just apply stain to the raw wood you can end up with dark blotches....See MoreLori
2 years agoHU-187528210
2 years agomxk3 z5b_MI
2 years agoLori
2 years agodarbuka
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoCaroline Hamilton
2 years agodan1888
2 years agoaziline
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoLori
2 years agoLori
2 years agodarbuka
2 years agocat_ky
2 years agoBrown Dog
2 years agoMrs Pete
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2 years agoCarrie B
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agolavender12145
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
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