The structural support of typical sloping roof rafters must resist horizontal forces as well as vertical forces in order to prevent the walls from bowing outward at the top causing the roof to collapse. In the current condition the ceiling joists act as horizontal ties to resist the horizontal force. There are only 4 ways to remove the ceiling joists and use the existing roof structure. 1. Remove the ceiling and leave the ceiling joists in place possibly removing 1/2 or 2/3 of them and reinforcing the top plate as needed. I've made the beam brace and reinforced top plate approach work with horizontal members as far apart as 10 ft. but it would be foolish to do that without the assistance of a good structural engineer even if a permit could be obtained without it. 2. Sister the existing rafters with larger members (2x10, 2x12, etc.) and raise the old ceiling joists to about the 1/3 or 1/2 point of the rafters (this approach is spelled out in a footnote to the IRC building code rafter tables). "Collar ties" in the upper 1/3 of the rafters provide little resistance to rafter forces; they are essentially substitutes for metal hangers to secure the rafters to the ridge to resist wind uplift. The connections are critical and often under-designed so they should be designed by a structural engineer. 3. Install a beam under the ridge with posts at the ends that carry the load to the foundation. Then there are no longer any horizontal forces to resist and the ceiling joists can be removed. The beam and its supports are required to be designed by a structural engineer. 4. Remove the ceiling joists and install diagonal braces from the top plates at each rafter heel to the middle of the rafter on the other side of the roof. Apply a new ceiling to the bottom of the new braces. This is a field built scissor truss that cannot and should not be designed by anyone other than a structural engineer. If the members and connections are not adequate the roof could collapse. So, the first step is to accurately draw the existing conditions in plan, elevation and section; then ask some builders what the costs might be; then hire a structural engineer to design it; then bid the project.

All right, I think I've managed to cook up what you mean in terms of the soffit. (I'm certain the fault is mine if I've failed.) The biggest issue I can see now is the discrepancy in doorframe styles . . . not sure how to reconcile the pantry opening's lack of trim with the trim on the other three openings that are just a few feet away. Unless -- it just came to me as I'm looking at the new pictures -- I raise the bottom of the soffit enough to allow for trim? I definitely know what you're talking about regarding the cabinet paneling. Good tip. I'm going to wait to create it in the program until I figure out how to properly program all this soffit stuff, though. Right now I just have a 1' 8" "room" containing my kitchen cabinets. :-)

Cubes where the room is not wider or longer in at least one direction than the ceiling is high are not particularly comfortable, similar to how large rooms with low ceilings are not particularly comfortable. In a cube, the room tends to start feeling shaft like, where a large room with a low ceiling often seems to sag or press down in the center. Also, cubes are static and rectangles are not. It might be better if the ceiling was 15-16 if 24 is the largest dimension of the room. Peaks are a little different. I lived in an apartment where the original parlor floors were essentially a golden rectangle. They had been lofted at one end (about 1/3 of the space) and it made the high ceiling in the remaining area kind of elevator shaft-like. The apartments that maintained the original proportions were more comfortable spaces. Of the above pictures Mutiny and Rufty seem fine because of the length of the room and the ability to experience the height from the opposite end of the room in some sort of perspective. I actually find the Shades Creek kitchen proportions unpleasant. It makes a good picture but I don't think I would like working in that kitchen. I am curious as to how many people with 8-9 foot ceilings vacuum or clean them on a regular basis. I am not sure the extra height makes rooms extra dirty? That said I had to clean my 14 foot LR with elaborate plaster cornices with an extention pole with brushes on it...I purposely did not have any lighting in that ceiling. I think the people who bought the apartment from my buyer put in recessed cans. (Not right in a 1830s house and very hard to change. A ten foot ladder is much harder to manage than an 8 foot ladder).

First, we need to address the utility part of the lighting. for example is your kitchen underlit at night? Do you read in your living room, have floor lamps? Lastly, I don't see electrical in your dining area have you established you can get it there? Oh and why are there two hanging lights in the entry? HMMM