Here are some resources on sound-reducing construction. The one immediately below, and the one that is hyper-linked, look pretty good. The other one (''Suppressproducts'') might just be an advertisement for their products, I am not sure. Basically sound is vibration that is transmitted from the source to your ear by rigid materials (sound travels well through hard materials like wood) and air. To reduce sound, you want to reduce the transmission of vibration. Air gap is better than a rigid connection. A heavy, soft material (e.g. rubber) is better than an air gap. Techniques are: - Double layers of drywall with dampening material like the referenced ''green glue'' between them (not simply screwing one sheet of drywall to the other) - Staggered studs w/ separate floor plates (essentially making two walls, no physical connection from one side to the other) - Sheet of sound dampening material between the staggered studs (reducing sound transmission through the airspace) - Sealing openings in the walls (electrical boxes, holes for plumbing, gaskets around and under door frame) - Special doors, or (less good) a conventional solid door, or (maybe an in-between alternative) a conventional door w/ a sound dampening layer on one side. - Dampening material between subfloor and joists, and between ceiling drywall and joists - Sound-proofing paint (I've not heard of this stuff before, I am skeptical it does much) Since the bathroom is a small space, you can use these techniques without too much additional expense, and just the loss of about 6'' if using staggered studs and double drywall layers. http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/index.php?/library/articles/elements_of_room_construction http://www.supressproducts.com/soundproofing-articles/Soundproof-Sheetrock.html Here is a link that might be useful: Link

Mindy- just doing my kitchen (2021) & thought of doing stainless at base of island. Found your post - what did you end up doing & if SS using? I am like you - don't want scratches showing, cheap look etc. I need 11 foot long x 4 1/2 inches tall. Not finding anything that long, so concerned about the sight of a seam where the 2 pieces meet, also need to bend at corner on both ends of island. Found some stick on & they will send sample. Ikea nothing, & will check the SS tornado listed above. Thanks!

I have one over the sideboard in my dining room. I've seen people on here say that no one wants to watch themselves eat, but it is high enough that when we're sitting at the table, you cannot see yourself. I don't know how a mirror can be dated. But I'm sure some people might disagree. I think it's personal preference. It just opens up our space and reflects the light.

For what it's worth...the most important thing to consider even before how you want to style the room is the function. Function always comes before style. Once you decide function that will determine furniture placement. Then and only then do you pick style. If the mirrored walls impede function then they need to go. IMO get rid of them because (based on what you said) they do. Also the divider wall is in the way. If you remove all this then you'd have a great wall for your TV, some MCM built-ins or freestanding system and MCM art pieces. Either way fine. Then you could place your furniture in a cozy grouping in front of this element. This would make your room look larger. Also choosing a white paint (there are many "colors" of white) wall color will brighten, lighten, and enlarge the room and do a lot more for the room than the mirrors. The furniture and art pieces you choose will do the job of giving you the MCM look your going for! If you still want a mirror in the room get a MCM hanging wall mirror and put it on an opposite wall say above the furniture piece you have now in front of the mirrored wall.