paint specks ALL over the walls, how to fix?
D M
2 years ago
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acm
2 years agoRelated Discussions
How to fix the soil in an over-grown garden?
Comments (18)You can always find a reason to not use something...but seeing as how the experts recommend it and use it, RoundUp is the most effective way of dealing with crop-ups. Burying them in soil will do nothing except encourage root development to proceed further. Smothering roots can cause problems with trees, but doesn't kill advancing roots. You don't say Toronto what the saplings are from...you evidently have a tree--possibly one that's been chopped down....maybe dug up...and it is sending out roots where saplings keep popping up. The constant mowing, removing and spraying RoundUp will do the job.....eventually. You might trace back to where the tree was, dig there and spray RoundUp there also. Now in the Toronto area, you may not find such herbicide on the store shelves....you might have to go wider afield...out into the suburbs. Any Canadian Tire store has it. If you plan on maybe using a weed killer ....such as Killex...it would prove time saving to buy it IN BULK...at the same time...you cant find it on shelves in Toronto proper....See MoreHow much over on a fixed price contract?
Comments (13)Sue: I don't know enough about construction to know why the foundation might run over either; I'm just trying to anticipate possibilities. Perhaps if soil conditions in that area required a more extensive foundation? One thing our G.C. said is that if anything really bizarre turned up and they needed to bring in a soils engineer, we would have to pay the engineer's fee. And, I presume, any additional cost for construction related to his findings. No septic; county sewer and water. I rate-shop loans every few months. Consistently for us, our best deal is with Wachovia to do a C-P loan. We can lock in a permanent rate for 12 months, or pay an ace to get an 18-month rate lock. I have no idea whether to do that or not. We pay interest only during construction on the cumulative amount of the draws. We own our current house free and clear and won't try to sell it till after we move into the new one. We paid cash for the property the new house will be built on. So, there won't be any unexpected expenses with our living situation. Of course, prorated property taxes and insurance for a longer build, but I've budgeted for a 15 month build on that and it's a small house that's expected to take 5 to 7 mos. Two related issues on that, though. One, is I don't know what the homeowner's insurance company will do once we do the demo and start building. At first they'll have nothing to insure and gradually they'll have more and more of a house they're insuring. Secondly, I don't know how the city and county will handle our property taxes. In Ga, for the county at least, the assessments are based on what you own on Jan.1, with taxes due in Sept. I don't know what I'll own on Jan. 1 and I don't know if they'll re-value it if it's a vacant lot (should and will also being 2 different things) or periodically during the build. Many mysteries here. BTW, do you remember me? I'm the one who said "I don't buy a lawnmower without my attorney looking at the contract. We love our atty. and he loves us"? That's me. But I do all I can do first, to save attorney's fees. I spent a few years reviewing contracts in the legal dept. of a huge finance company, so I'm comfortable with the initial reading. And I know when I need help. My atty. usually gets contacted by me during the negotiation stage for some help. Then he gets the preliminary contract with a list of questions clause by clause. We work well together hammering things out that way. dixiedoodle: we should all be so lucky as to have your deal! If we go more than 2.5% over the fixed price, for the unexpected, we have no choice but to dip into the IRAs. But it won't be the end of the world. We've been hacking down the size, etc. of this house till we can go no further. It's a stretch. And we are nervous. I do love your wording about the substitutions. I have printed it out for my contract file. Thanks to both of you. I'm always informed by what you......See MoreLatex primer over an oil painted ceiling. How do I fix my mistake
Comments (1)Not sure what you are asking and or what is going on ,but , kilz 2 is NOT the proper primer for going over oil based paint. You need a bonding primer( Zinsser's 123) for that....See MorePaint over or fix dry rot?
Comments (5)A Bondo type product will work well if the substrate (e.g. the underlying wood) is still in good condition. If your wood is not solid, I'd look into a penetrating epoxy type of solution. Usually there are two components. I liquid type penetrating epoxy that is absorbed by the wood to consolidate and remediate the punky wood. You use this to consolidate the wood fibers and assure the structrual integrity of the piece of wood. The second component is an epoxy filler. This is similar to the bondo type products but epoxy based. Use this to fill the wood to build up to a smooth surface ready for painting. Diane...See Morejuliab51
2 years agocleo
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoD M
2 years agoHALLETT & Co.
2 years agoIzzy Mn
2 years agoD M
2 years agoRho Dodendron
2 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
2 years agocolonel115
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoD M
2 years ago
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