Now I'm more confused than ever. Do you mean that if it was sealed before it shouldn't be done again until the old sealer is removed? What happens if you reseal something that has been sealed with a different product? Do you spray acetone on, wipe it on? I'm not a technical person at all and I have tried to read the websites on caring for stone and I am really totally learning disable on these types of subjects because I can't follow at at what they are trying to say. Anything you can do to help me understand this will be greatly appreciated.

Laurie, sorry for so many pictures but I downloaded the pictures from the camera and just had it download all to Photobucket and I was too tired to delete pictures. Next time I share, I will send in less so people will want to view. But I appreciate your nice comments. That is why I sent the way before picture to show that my kitchen is a big improvement from when I bought my home and the mini blinds broke from raising and lowering them. The wall color was also too white for the appliances back then. Since the wall color looks nice in the foyers with my other tile called Akoya Bone that is a little darker, I feel once the tiles are down, it will look nice also. I am not sure how the blinds go yet but I will worry about that next. But I really am liking the tiles and feel they will enhance my kitchen with that outdated in bad shape Linoleum floor gone. I also love that little table. I was dating a guy when I moved into my home and we were looking for a small kitchen table for my kitchen and he kept trying to push me to go with cheap tables at stores that I hated. He finally told me that the deal for the table that was too big for the kitchen was a great deal and he will take me to Ethan Allen to show me what expensive prices are like so I will see that the table and chairs he is showing me were a good deal. The minute I saw this table and chairs, I fell in love and despite how expensive the set was even with the great sale this store was having at the time. I bought all four chairs and the insert to enlarge the table. I am able to add two more chairs from other rooms if I have 6 people at the table with the insert in the middle of the table and it fits in the middle of the kitchen. But I am glad I can then make the table small again for room to walk and cook. The table is so well made and is solid wood with even the side rails for lowering the sides made of solid wood. I went back the next day to bring one of my drawers to see how it matched and bought it. I have always been happy with my decision. I always wished my cabinets were made out of the wood that the table is made out of. Not sure what it(forgot since I did not know much about wood almost 14 years ago but remember it being a nice wood and it was solid wood and not oak so I was happy it went with my cabinets despite not being the same wood). I love the Wheatback chairs so much. I am so glad I did not try to save money and get the table that did not match my cabinets and was too big for the kitchen. Some things are worth investing in. Like you invested in the cabinets and put other purchases on hold. I feel that was a wide decision. I also love your tile floors backsplash, wood floors and baseboard trim in the other room. Again, thank you for being there for me and making me not feel alone during my home renovations. I can't wait to post new pictures when the tile floor is down and then to work on other parts of my kitchen project.

That would not be a tile that I would ever use in a wet area. There are too many places for soap and skin cell residue to cling. That is difficult enough to clean off of a flat porcelain tile. Put the additional recesses in the mix, and combine it with marble, which has specialty pH balanced cleaning care requirements, and someone is going to be very unhappy in a short period of time. Either the soap scum will win, or someone will break down and try something unsuited to be used on marble to get rid of the scum.

@ Melissa...If you were to test you slab TODAY you would find the moisture levels would be extremely high. Please be aware that your flooring experts who ran the test BEFORE putting in the tile *might have shown a lower level of moisture. That is NORMAL if the concrete was bare or had carpet over it for a few weeks/days before the new tile was installed. You will find out (either in court or from your attorney or via a building engineer who deals with soil conditions) that a moisture test is ONLY GOOD for the DAY it was taken. The moisture level tested on THAT DAY is a 'snap shot' in time. Like a photo of a sunset. The photo lives forever (the numbers on the moisture report) while the sunset slips away into darkness (like water draining from a bathtub). It is ENTIRELY POSSIBLE (and I am not making this up) that 2 weeks after your slab was 'capped' (again...porcelain is a cap...it does not allow water to go anywhere but through the grout lines = ground salts sitting on your tiles) that a second moisture test would have shown your slab had turned from "OK" for tile to "disastrous". And in court/building law, if the contractor/installer can PROVE that the numbers were ACCEPTABLE on that day....they are not responsible for issues that came later. Sorry...I know...that's nasty to hear...but that's the way it works. Now if you had a second set of numbers that stated a HORRIBLE water level in your slab on the DAY they started the install, now you have a condition that makes them responsible. But again, a wet slab that does not show itself on the day the contractor measured it means the contractor could not REASONABLY have anticipated high moisture levels LATER. Your ONE SAVING GRACE is the fact that the numbers were "too high" for wood but were "OK" for porcelain. This could be a false statement. Porcelain tile and thin-set have MAXIMUM moisture ratings. Any amount of moisture above the thinset's rating = flooring specialist needs to tell the homeowner to STOP the flooring install and to CONTRACT a wet-slab specialist to do the $5/sf fix (see below). That is your one leg you have to stand on. You will need to have a building expert make such a statement on paper and you need the actual number the installer came up with (and the test used) and the name of the materials (thinset is EXTREMELY important). You will need to have all of this documentation in your hand when you sit down with the lawyer for your first visit. The only other thing you could try would be sump pumps to drain the water from underneath the slab. That is often needed in settings like yours. Florida has water tables that sit higher than peoples above ground pools! Other than a sumppump addition, this is a complete redo. The tiles have to come up, you have to engage the use of a wet slab/wet basement expert and have them come in a seal your slab from above. That includes shot blasting the surface (old concrete doesn't like to hold onto sealants). Then they will add 1-2 coats of epoxy sealant (usually 2...especially when it is this bad). They might have to use a primer (either before or after the sealant is put down) and then they have to add a microtopping of new cement over top. Once the top layer of cement has dried, you can then move forward with new flooring. But to get this to work PROPERLY you have to do the entire house. Cause if you miss a spot that has carpet on it, all that back-pressure is going to POUR into your carpet. And then you have another mess on your hands.