Nicole - what seil said, and also I would weed out ALL of the grass and anything else that is growing within 18 inches of the base of the rose, and spread compost or mulch around that area, making sure not to let it touch the base of the rose. For future reference, what I am guessing happened is that the newly transplanted rose was unable (because its roots were damaged) to keep all of its top growth alive, so it didn't. If I was transplanting a rose that size, I would have cut it way down to maybe 3-4 canes, about 12-18 inches high. Now it should do fine - it has finally been able to grow some new roots, as you can tell by the new growth. Would love to see some pictures after it starts to bloom. Jackie

Japonicas may suffer if they get too much sun (Sasanquas can handle more sun). Wind can also cause drooping when the leaves loose moisture faster than the plant can absorb moisture through the roots. Protection from the winds can help remedy the dropping problem. Protection from too much sun can help remedy the browning of leaves. Maintaining the soil evenly moist can help a little with both issues. Aim for 4 hours of sun or less. Summer temperatures, summer winds and lack of Spring-like moisture plus transplant shock (an affected root system) are making the shrubs react this way. In Z10, I would have transplanted them during the winter months but I understand that this is something one cannot schedule sometimes. If they get a lot more than 4 hours of sun, you may need to transplant them again. Temporarily, you can help[ by keeping the soil moist as evenly as possible; block the sun with 35% shade cloth or some other object; protect from the winds with some object. And mulch, mulch, mulch. About 3-4" of mulch. Because the area is windy, I would also maintain about 6" of mulch past the drip line. Stressed plant should not be fertilized so I would not fertilize until next year. It would be ok to amend however, if you have to tweak the soil pH, etc. Make sure the plant remains about 1" higher than the surrounding soil. You may also want to use a stake in case there are sudden strong winds.

I wouldn't bother moving a 3 year old H. foetidus, as they are short-lived perennials. It probably only has a few years left to live. You can remove and transplant any of it's seedlings that are crowding your H. x hybridus, but I would wait until fall or early winter. I have numerous seedlings each year from the species H. foetidus, but a cultivar I once grew, 'Miss Jekyll', produced only a few viable seed the first year it bloomed and the mother plant soon died and the seedlings followed a few years later. None of the offspring ever produced seed. Since it was only a few feet from a huge complex of species plants, I assumed cross-pollination would help, but no such luck! As far as special treatment is concerned, my Helleborus receive none, except well drained soil and since I have a red clay soil base, I have amended all of the planting areas to raise the pH above 6.5. Some growers claim that Helleborus will grow in soil with a pH as low as 5.5 and that is true, BUT, they sure as heck don't thrive! Helleborus also need sunlight or bright reflected light to perform well. I grow 12 species, that encompasses many hundreds of plants and they are located in areas that receive either; morning, noonday and afternoon sunlight or dappled shade. Those in afternoon sun require heavy mulch to keep the roots cool. I remove the mulch during prolonged periods of rainfall, to prevent the soil from becoming soggy, a condition that Helleborus don't tolerate very well. Last year we received 81 inches of rainfall. 60% above average, twice the amount of the previous year and three times more than in 2007, which was the beginning of two years of exceptional drought, severe outdoor water restrictions, which culminated in a total ban for six consecutive months. And then the seemingly endless rainfall began!

A couple weeks on... I applied a 6-10-10 fertilizer and a sparse sprinkling of epsom salts to the garden and the potted plants. Am watering less frequently. Have switched from commercial potting mix to homemade compost as my primary potting medium. It definitely drains better. The basil is beautiful, both in the garden and the pots. I've got way more than I know what to do with, since I never cook with it anyhow. The English thyme's growing at an agonizingly slow pace. About 2-3 inches tall at most. It's spreading laterally more than it is vertically. The potted lovage has come back from the brink, and while still only an inch high, looks healthy and is sending up new stalks. Divided the thorny Mexican coriander. Still tiny, but also a healthy color. Since it cooled off, the parsley's FINALLY gaining some height. The dill's flowering and attracting moths and the occaisonal butterfly. Keeps flopping over. VERY few leaves. No more bouquet. Next year, I'm gonna try fernleaf or dukat. It'll be a miracle if the greek oregano comes back in the spring. Tiny plants that've made no progress in a month. The rosemary's stopped growing. I transplanted it today to a 3-gallon plastic pot. It's a really irregular plant. Smells and looks very healthy, though. How do I prune it so as to encourage growth, rather than kill it? I really appreciate all the help I've gotten here. It's made a world of difference. :)