Pentas after transplantation : (un)likely to thrive?
four (9B near 9A)
2 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (6)
Tom
2 years agofour (9B near 9A)
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Die back after rescue transplant.
Comments (6)Nicole - what seil said, and also I would weed out ALL of the grass and anything else that is growing within 18 inches of the base of the rose, and spread compost or mulch around that area, making sure not to let it touch the base of the rose. For future reference, what I am guessing happened is that the newly transplanted rose was unable (because its roots were damaged) to keep all of its top growth alive, so it didn't. If I was transplanting a rose that size, I would have cut it way down to maybe 3-4 canes, about 12-18 inches high. Now it should do fine - it has finally been able to grow some new roots, as you can tell by the new growth. Would love to see some pictures after it starts to bloom. Jackie...See MoreCamellia Stress after Transplant
Comments (3)Japonicas may suffer if they get too much sun (Sasanquas can handle more sun). Wind can also cause drooping when the leaves loose moisture faster than the plant can absorb moisture through the roots. Protection from the winds can help remedy the dropping problem. Protection from too much sun can help remedy the browning of leaves. Maintaining the soil evenly moist can help a little with both issues. Aim for 4 hours of sun or less. Summer temperatures, summer winds and lack of Spring-like moisture plus transplant shock (an affected root system) are making the shrubs react this way. In Z10, I would have transplanted them during the winter months but I understand that this is something one cannot schedule sometimes. If they get a lot more than 4 hours of sun, you may need to transplant them again. Temporarily, you can help[ by keeping the soil moist as evenly as possible; block the sun with 35% shade cloth or some other object; protect from the winds with some object. And mulch, mulch, mulch. About 3-4" of mulch. Because the area is windy, I would also maintain about 6" of mulch past the drip line. Stressed plant should not be fertilized so I would not fertilize until next year. It would be ok to amend however, if you have to tweak the soil pH, etc. Make sure the plant remains about 1" higher than the surrounding soil. You may also want to use a stake in case there are sudden strong winds....See MorePlease help. Plant hanging after transplant
Comments (2)Transplant shock. Most plants suffer it to some degree when transplanted. IMHO, it looks like your plants are a tad bit leggy (ones in covered flat) and require a bit more light, if you can provide it. SCG...See MoreConcerns about root (plant) health after move/pot & soil transplant
Comments (18)Hi, Samantha. Before you water, it's a good idea to check to see what moisture levels are like below the surface. Use a 1/4 or 5/16" wood dowel (any hardware of home improvement store, sharpened at both ends in a pencil sharpener. You can get 2, 3, 4, from 1 - 48" dowel. Make sure at least 1 is long enough to reach the bottom of your largest pot. You can use a little science to help keep water retention at acceptable levels, more specifically you can use Newton's First Law of Motion, which states that a body in motion tends to stay in motion unless acted upon by an external force, and a body at rest tends to stay at rest unless acted upon by an external force. To apply the science, water your plant like you would if your soil allowed it w/o limitations to the plant. It doesn't, but pretend it does. When done watering, there will be a LOT of excess water left in the soil that has plenty of limiting potential. To negate that, pick the pot up by the rim, hold it over a sink, bathtub, lawn, ..... and move the plant smartly downward before sharply reversing the coarse to upward. When the direction changes from downward to upward, the excess water in the pot will continue moving downward and out the drain hole. You'll very quickly pick up the appropriate rhythm, and soon all excess water will have been removed. You can also tip your pots at about a 45* angle after watering and or add a drainage wick to a drain hole - preferably one through the bottom of the pot next to the sidewall. Compare picture B to picture A, and note the wick in picture E. These practices allow you to keep normally very water-retentive soils free of excess water and give the plant a fighting chance, free of the limitations imposed by soggy soils. You still have less aeration than you'd expect in media based on a high % of coarse material, but it's much better than suffering the limitations of a soggy soil with the same stoicism of a cow standing in a cold rain. ;-) I would do this the next time your tell (the wood dowel) says it's time to water. After flushing the soil, I'd add a recommended dose of appropriate fertilizer. 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers very closely mimic the ratio at which the plant actually USES the nutrients, and there are numerous reasons why mimicking the plants usage ratio is part of the best supplementation plan. Examples of 3:1:2 ratios are 12-4-8, 24-8-16, 9-3-6, ...... My preference is Foliage-Pro 9-3-6; this, for a number of reasons I wont list unless you're interested. If you don't understand the difference between NPK %s and NPK ratios, please ask for details. because it's an important part of your nutrient supplementation program. While it's true you needn't worry about potting soils or repotting in the immediate, these chores should be part of your regular maintenance program and something you formulate a plan around. If you don't already have a plan in place and want to have one, ask, and I'll offer some guidance that takes the plants natural rhythms into consideration. In consideration of the plant's well being, it's better to work in harmony with the plant's natural rhythms than against them. Let me know if you think there's anything I might be able to further help with or explain in more detail. Good luck. Al...See MoreTom
2 years agofour (9B near 9A)
last yearCarol love_the_yard (Zone 9A Jacksonville, FL)
last yearlast modified: last year
Related Stories
GARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Thalictrum Dioicum Thrives in Dry Shade
Plant early meadow-rue in eastern U.S. woodland gardens for its tolerance of dry sites and shade
Full StoryFRONT YARD IDEASBefore and After: Front Lawn to Prairie Garden
How they did it: Homeowners create a plan, stick to it and keep the neighbors (and wildlife) in mind
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESBoxwood: Still Shape-Shifting After 350 Years
Wild or mild, the humble boxwood still brings style and order to all kinds of gardens
Full StoryARCHITECTUREThink Like an Architect: How to Pass a Design Review
Up the chances a review board will approve your design with these time-tested strategies from an architect
Full StoryCONTAINER GARDENSPatio-Perfect Berry Bushes Like You’ve Never Seen
Small enough for pots but offering abundant fruit, these remarkable bred berries are a boon for gardeners short on space
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGNBefore and After: 3 Welcoming Front Yards That Invite Lingering
Designers transform underused, lackluster front yards into inviting outdoor destinations for gardening and relaxing
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESHow to Maintain Your Garden to Ensure Its Long-Term Health
Experts weigh in on how to keep your plants thriving and your garden looking good for years to come
Full StoryFARM YOUR YARDHow to Farm Your Parking Strip
Get an up-close look at a thriving street-side edible garden, one of many sprouting up in Seattle
Full StoryFARM YOUR YARDAdvice on Canyon Farming From L.A.'s Vegetable Whisperer
See how a screened garden house and raised beds help an edible garden in a Los Angeles canyon thrive
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Autumn Sage Brings Color and Butterflies
Whether you live in the arid desert or the humid South, you'll likely find this deer-resistant beauty as irresistible as winged creatures do
Full Story
Tom Byrnes