Monicakm, that beaded one WAS one I briefly looked at, but my bathroom is more traditional. If I had contemporary that would definitely be one on my short list...I loved it. I saw it in one of the wallpaper books from an Interior Designer (ID). Thought it could be used almost like a backsplash. It was really gorgeous. The wallpaper I am considering is from the Candice Olson Dimensional Surfaces Book. The glass bead design is called Script Geo $130/roll. You can't tell by the picture, but the background has a beautiful sheen and the glass bead design is raised off the paper. The one with a faint scroll design with a grasscloth type weave is called Filigree on Sisal $140/roll. Those are retail prices, but the Interior Designer can get it for much less.

Hi wamaha, did you receive feedback and how did the build go? Thinking of using Pearland Pools as well.

We are going with Pineloch pool Construction. We got quotes from blue haven, laguna and pineloch. Blue havens design was pretty "plain" and cookie cutter, but the cheapest by far. Both Laguna and Pineloch had excellent designs. Part of the attraction to Pineloch was their long time in the business, and the fact that the designer also supervises all the major phases of construction. He stays involved to the end. Big Plus in my mind. Also, we are building on a steep waterfront lot and there are special design and engineering considerations. Pineloch has a lot of experience in that. Once I get back in town, I will start a thread about our build with pic's and spec's.

If you are DIY competent, you could give it a shot. Especially if you have paper hanging experience. I don't find it difficult to hang...you just need to use specific measures to get the best result. Use blanklining or blankstock. Mandatory. In large rooms I actually run it horizontal across the walls, which is how I was told to do it years ago. You don't want seams in the blanklining being aligned with the wall paper seams. It can be hung vertically...just watch the seam alignment. After it's up, paste size the blanklining and let it completely dry. This will make the lining very absorbent, which helps when hanging the pulp paper. It prevents soak through and water marks, etc, in the patterned paper. Careful with your seams. Pulp papers can expand more than others when wet, and obviously, shrink when they dry. That's where the lining paper helps too. When hanging the patterned paper, to set and smooth it I use a bristle sweep. Rigid smoothers can burnish the pulp paper and possibly mar the ink pattern. They can smear any errant paste into the pores of the paper. So I use a bristle sweep. If you want to use a rigid smoother, use a scrap piece of paper held over the wall paper, and run your smoother over the scrap paper. That way the friction will occur between the smoother and the scrap paper instead of between the smoother and the patterned face of your pulp paper. Oh, and do not use premixed paste. I won't get into the chemistry of how premixed pastes are processed, but the end result is that premixed pastes can possibly result in bleed-through staining months or years after the pulp paper is installed. Buy powdered starch and mix your own. I use potato starch. I use distilled water as well. Well water can have minerals and iron, city water can have it's own list of secret ingredients. So mix your own potato starch powder with distilled water. So I guess I'd say if you have experience in hanging wall paper, you can hang pulp if you simply add a few methods and techniques to your bag of tricks.